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Hey everyone I am looking for a motor/basket or just a blown SA-8 v.1 or SA-10. What I'm looking to do is buy a small blown sub then do my first recone and build a box maybe 2 boxes since they are only like .6-.7ft^3 a piece. I will also have a log on the process as I go along even though it may be slow. Just post up or PM me what you have. Also I would pay through PayPal. -James -
Hey whats up everyone? I am looking for a single 18" woofer that will take 2.5k rms daily. The amp is a Soundstream rub2500.1D. Voltage never drops below 13.8v. My budget is $350 and I'm looking to stay a little under that. I am just seeing what may be up for sale. Bank account is in the process of being linked to my PayPal so I will be able to pay through PayPal. Been looking at PSi, AQ, and Fi but anything you have to offer just let me know. Even if you have something a little above my budget post up and I may try and save up to increase my budget a tad bit. Thanks, -James
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Hey whats up everyone? I am looking at upgrading my 2 12" Q Power Deluxe's to 4 15 Deluxe's. I got 2 12" Q Power Deluxe series subs and I am pushing 2500rms to them, While they are surprisingly taking the power like champs I am looking to upgrade to 4 15" Q Power Deluxe's. Only problem is the Deluxe's only come in D4 subs. I wouldn't be able to run 4 D4's at 1 ohm. I need 4 D2's. So as much as I want to stay with Q Power look like I am going to have change brands so I can get 4 D2's to run at 1ohm. So I wanted to stay with Q Power because I want a system that the everyday person can afford but still compete and carry home a trophy with. I will be competing in the SPL lanes also so this is really an SPL build for my Tahoe. I will be running aero ports on the box instead of the traditional wooden slot port. I want something different and hopefully a little better performing. I will post pics of some boxes I came up with in torres. I will post the Aero Port box and the Slot Port box below. I will adding another Soundstream rub2500.1D to the one I got so I can strap them and run 5k. Also will be adding 2 more batts just so the electrical wont struggle. I will build the box and add the subs before I up my power and electrical. First off does anyone have any D2 15" subs that are around $100-$115? I am looking for something that can handle 1250w rms daily for when I run 5K to them. The 2 12" Q Power's I got now are rated at 700rms but 1500 peak and are taking the 2500w really well. All the subs I have been pricing are $200+. Looking to stay under 500 for all 4 15's. For SPL wouldn't 4 15's post higher scores than 2 18's? if not please correct me so I wont be wasting money on a system that wont post anything near 145 in the lanes. To reach a 145 if I really HAVE to save more and spend more on subs then just let me know. The goal is a 145 @ 35-40hz. Tuning: I am thinking around 30-32hz and have the box around 15.5ft*3. Aero Port: Slot Port: Thanks for any opinions or any help -James
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Sold Please Lock or Delete
252chevyboyz posted a topic in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
1. Products: Autotek SM2-1200 Bed Lined Cooling stand w/ 20 cfm fan Q Power High/Low Impendence Converter 17ft Q Power RCA's 2. Specs: 300w x 2chan @ 4ohms 600w x 2chan @ 2ohms 1200w x 1chan @ 4ohms (bridged) A/B Class Amp Topography Pro-FiTM MOSFET Outputs ASPS (Auto Step Power Supply) Road Worthy TCID (Twin-Coil Isolation Design) Fully Adjustable Pro-Design Crossovers 12 dB Hi-Pass Crossover 24dB Low-Pass Crossover Bass Thrust: Variable Bass Equalization RCA Line Outputs: Permit Amplifier Daisy-Chaining 3. Description/Condition Mechanical: 10/10 Cosmetic: 9/10 A few scratches on the mounting feet and the Autotek logo wont light up but I haven't taken the back off the amp to fix since I was planning on selling it and didn't want to void the warranty. 4. Price: For all: $175 now dropped to $100 + shipping or $130 Shipped Also may be able to knock off a little bit if you don't want the cooling stand. 5. Contact Options: Email: [email protected] Text: 252-908-4411 Or just shoot me a PM I have had it for about 8 months now and the only reason I'm looking to sell it is because I am need the money to help out with the rest of my electrical upgrades and I am saving for something that is at least 2k rms. Sounds great on my daily driver with 2 12's but I just want to finish my electrical and upgrade the amp so I can start saving up for new subs. My first time selling here on SMD but I have been selling paracord items on ebay for several months Thanks for reading, -James Horton -
Hey whats up eveyone I ordered a SA-8 v1.5 last week and I have now found some time to start disassembling it and getting it ready to recone. I will order the recone sometime this week when I get some extra funds. Anyway I have removed the cone off the woofer and now I am trying to remove the spiders. However there is a thick layer of glue over the spider and the screws holding the spider landing in? I think that is what it called. Someone please correct me on that cause I would also like to know the name of it. Here is what I am talking about and does anyone know how I can remove these screws so I can remove the spider and coil? Thank you for any help, -James
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Hey whats up everyone I was wondering if anyone in the community ran the Soundstream rub2500.1d? I have searched through google and searched through the community and search feature but couldn't find much for my amp. Anyway the reason I was asking is I would like to hear how other have their gains set on this particular amp. I have a JVC KD-A315 head unit and it has 5V preouts. I got the gain set on the .1-2V setting with the gain about 1/3 of the way up. Guessing around 1.6-1.7V. The amp also has 2-8V setting for the gains but when I switch it to the 2-8V setting I really dont get much bass at all with the gains at max or min. It runs a little warm but I think my electrical is part of the problem. At idle it will dip pretty bad. I will install a new radiator this weekend and once I get that done I am getting 20ft of 1/0 and running a 2nd battery up front. That should help the voltage a tad bit. Anyway I would really like to hear how some people have their gains set on this amp or if you have any suggestions I am all ears to anything you have to say. Amp: Bass Boost: OFF LPF: right around 60-70hz Subsonic: 25hz Gain: .1-2V (also has 2-8V setting) Gain knob on amp: about 1/3 the way up *also on an amp rack to get it off the floor/carpet and got spacers under the feet to lift it up off the amp rack a little bit to get air flow under neath* Head Unit: Bass: 0 Mid: +2 Treb: +3 Sub Woofer Level: 6/6 Thank you for any opinions or help, -James
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Hey whats up everyone? I am looking to have everything for my big 3 ordered by this coming Wednesday and I was wondering if someone might be able to help me out with about the amount I need to order, what kind of ring terminals, help between 3 diff brands, and whether or not I should replace the stock wires or just add on to the stock wiring. I have read the "Big 3 Tutorial" over and over to make sure I am familiar with the process. Any help is really appreciated on this one. I am stuck deciding between Rockford 1/0, Tsunami 1/0, and Knukonceptz 1/0. Anyone have any preferences on these? I am going ot have to order my wire because the shops here in Rocky Mount just carry Q Power CCA 1/0. I am not a big fan of CCA or the performance of Q Power wire. Do you think I should go with one solid color under the hood or go "red for +" and "blk for -"? Maybe just blue Knu wire on the whole Big 3? I am guessing around 7ft for my batt-engine ground, 5ft for alt-batt +, and 6ft to run from batt-starter. I will post some pics below. The way the wiring came from the factory the positive from the Alt to the batt is in the same terminal (connector) as my positive wire running to my starter so would I have to replace both of these? How many feet would ya'll suggest I order and would 6 ring terminals be enough? I am planning on soldering the connections and not crimping them. Would ya'll suggest pure copper ring terminals? Also would yall suggest replacing the wire that stretches from the battery to my fuse block under the hood? Sorry for the nooby questions but money is kinda tight and I just want to make sure I order the right stuff and not waste any money. Thanks for any help also ya'll Best Regards, -James Alt to batt + lead: Back of Batt: Going to my engine block ground: The positive wire from the Alt and the Positive wire going to the starter are connected in one terminal: Overview:
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I got the first of the 2 vids made from the show yesterday (6/30/12) and figured I would share the footage. Sphinxbccp's Blazer was slammin even through the 106 degree heat. Props to Sphinx for such a clean build. Also if anyone else has footage they would like to post please feel free to do so.
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Hey whats up everyone? I was at my local audio shop today and found out they have a term lab for the public to use. I believe it was $15.00 per run. What do yall think about the price? A little steep or ok? I just figured I would bring this to the attention of the community in case there is anyone here in East NC that would like to test their system on a term lab. I will post the location and name of the shop below. Thanks for looking and hope this can help someone out -James Shop: Autophonics Location: 1894 Sunset Ave. Rocky Mount, NC Phone Number: 252-212-1715
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Name: Big Bang Can You Hang Car & Bike Show Location: 4245 US 70 (EZ Choice Window Tinting) across from Wilbers BBQ Date: Saturday July 28th Time: 11am-5pm Price: $5 to watch $25 to show Hosted By: NC Street Rydaz & EZ Choice Window Tinting Activities for the children: Wonder of Magic, Face Painting, Balloon Artist, & Clowns Music By: DJ 919, J Black, 25/8 ENT, Ladi Pink, Brolic the King, Red Dots ENT, Kimbo the Ruler, Stuicide, Coco Flipping. Also has a book signing with Clifon & Yolanda Baker. Nothing for NSPL. Seems like just a car show not an audio show but for info contact Virgil: 919-709-1546 or Meat: 919-394-3284