JesseyMclame

Looks like a decent little amp if bridged correctly. If I were you I'd just spend a little more money and get like A BRZ1200 so you have wiggle room for upgrading in the future. Also the BRE series are great.

Be Paitent with responses. But I haven't heard many bad things about them, but I also have no personal experience. I'm assuming you're throwing 2 subs on each amp. That's almost 4k in Amps alone. IMO, not worth it. You can get much better for the money. But if you wanna go all alpine, do it. I'd do more research on amps if I were you though.

Waaah Facebook drama !

Yeah I was also thinking of buying another two 12s. But I've had my four 12s for about a month and some change, there wouldn't be cancellation issues if 4 of the 12s were more worn in than the other 2?

Yeah I get what you're sayin. I mean they aren't too crazy far apart in price. I guess essentially I'm comparing three P1 15s to four P3 12's, though P3 12s aren't what I have, just not trying to start a vs thread. But I was at my local shop today and just kinda pondered that idea.

What size T1?

So, as I've heard, cone area is "king". So 3 15's > 4 12's. What If the 15s were some what of an entry series, and the 12s were one or two steps above an entry series ? Would the 15s still be louder since the cone area is greater ?

Oh okay. Makes sense then. And he was just throwing an example out on one reason why people may invert them. Would it be bad to play them, non-inverted with that 180 phase still on ? And I heard audiobahn isn't in buisness anymore. Is that true ?

It's on my amp and I have no idea what the point of it is or what it does. Any ideas ?

So we changed the ground, RCA, and remote wire. It HAS to be the deck.

@ Ray, yes. A pioneer. Not sure what model. It's an older green one though, If that helps any.

It's a ford Taurus. The remote wire is ran fine. I think it may be the ground fuckin everything up.

So for every box I've built for myself, I've used liquid nail to bond, and seal. I feel as though it doesn't work too crazy well. Is there anything else that may be better ? I use heavy duty liquid nails.

Now this guy CLEARLY knows what he's doing.

I mean I guess you could look at it that way? I know how to use the Torres calc and everything I just don't know where to place the sub and port. Like if it's gonna be 40" long, and sub and port on either side, that like doesn't make sense to me. Idk.

... So anyways. Can someone make a sketch up for me please ? I'm confused how to place sub and port.

Wha ? Lol Edit; ninja'd!

F-350.

Okay so I convinced him to take the seat out. So it's gonna be 40" long, would I put the sub forward on one side of the box, and build the port on the other side ? Or how would I do it ? If anyone can do a sketch up that'd make my day.

Honestly, that's what I reccomended, but he wanted it on the back seat. I even told him he could use the sub box as a back seat, but he didn't want to. Anyways, where should the port and sub go ? Lol

So my friend wants his L7 15 in a bigger box, dimensions are 40" long, 17" high, and 17" deep. He's just gonna lay it across his back seat. Whats the best way to put the sub ? sub up and port out twords the door ? Any help is appreciated.

Title says it all . PM me, please and thaaank you ! Also am down for Hifonics amps.

When I checked the spec on the manual I had the same thought.. You can go above mfr spec but modelling the sub to get an idea of how excursion behaves. Yeah.. I think I'll try to go with the above 4.5^ft. Anyone wanna help me out with that ? I want it at maybe 34 - 35 hz.

Are you really gonna bring that to my post about a box for a 15 ? Lol.

I have two 12's in a 5.50^ft box in my car right now actually, and it's not really that big. I just want the sub to be below the seat level. It could be bigger but I don't really want it to be .But yeah I am serious. I got ripped on a trade and some money, so I'm cutting my losses, throwing a little more change in it and just getting a beefier, bulkier sub that I know will get loud.