CompressionFed

If you are seriously looking for more power, the 2.2 and the 2.3 motors respond best to the following; 1)Bigger throttle body 2)aftermarket big tube header (not ebay shit, DC, apexi, etc.) **My crew chief makes a header for these motors that pick up 20 REAL HP on the dyno...we spend hours and hours on the dyno testing different header configurations. 3) Bigger cams That is the cheapest, easiest way to get more power, at least All-Motor power, out of your 2.3

Better throttle response = when you put to go peddle down, it will seem more peppy.

Thought I would share some insite...I've been tuneing high performance import motors for several years, so I can answer some of your questions. Cold air intakes obviously take in ambient air from outside of the engine bay (or lower in the engine bay). Cold air is more dense than warmer air. When a cold air intake is installed on a vehicle, their are two ways that your ECU will adjust for correction, 1) Air Intake Temp. sensor 2) On the back side, your o2 sensor(s). Depending on the vehicle you have, this may or may not take place...and if it does take place, their are ways to "trick" the ecu. Your Accord uses an OBDIIb ECU, and will look for two o2 sensors (one before, and one after the cat.) and correct for the differnce between the two readings. Because adding air without increasing fuel at the same time will "lean" the air/fuel ration out, your computer will then send additional pulses to the injectors to come back to a stoich. Lambda (Air Fuel) reading. **On a side note, increasing the actual volume of air by way of turbo/supercharger will increase manifold absolute pressure, triggering the MAP sensor to add/remove fuel advance/retard timing. Adding "colder" air to your engine increases efficiency within the cylinders (more HP)... by itself does NOT add fuel, and so in a way, you get a couple more hp without increasing gas milage... The biggest change you will notice from the installation of your intake, besides the sound of air rushing in, will be throttle response. The car will 'seem" more fun to drive around. As for sucking in water through your intake....CLUCK!! The motor will hydrolock and more than likely you will need to rebuild your motor. Please understand though, that normal rain water droplets will not damage your motor...sucking in a puddle will.

The problem with all three of mine ended up being faulty batteries. Not only would the computer just shut down, it would erase HD memory. Our IT people told me that Toshiba knows about the problem. My company alone dupmed all Toshibas (roughly 500) and went Sony.

My company has given me 3 satelites....each one stopped working. Now we use sony vaio's. Hope you have better luck.

I'm with you on that, but I like to haul me peeps around.

I assumed he would too, but I wanted to make sure.

Are you keeping the second row of seating and placing the wall behind them?

Damn good looking truck

Sorry I did not know that

I think the test should have been done with the same amp/power. I'm not really sure what the test proves, given that different subs received different power levels. Of course a sub that handles more power/and receives that power should be louder than a sub with less power.

if it is SPL that you really want, then this sub is NOT for you. i'm not saying that it won't get loud, im just saying that it's no SPL sub. Again, I've got to chime in. I've posted this somewhere else also. I've had W7's for a while now. Two years ago my 2 10w7's with a single 1000/1 in my hatch did 148.8. That's pretty damn loud fellas. That's only putting 500 to each sub

I've really enjoyed every W7 I've had...but their kinda expensive.

My first system was a 15'' Kicker comp. in a ported box with a roadmaster amp from walmart

So far it seems like 12 years old was the year we all got bit...

Standing by, waiting patiently.

When you first got bit by the audio bug??? Let's here about it... For me, I was 11-12 years old. My parents had their friends over for dinner, and their son showed up in his T-Top Camaro Z. He worked for a stereo shop in town and had a bad ass (at the time) system that went BUMP. He let me sit inside while he played Ton-Loc Wild Thing...windows were shaking, my ears were ringing...I was hooked.

Where do you live?

I've been sanding filler all day...my boogers are like solid dust...yucky

WOAH! Look at the old skool amps :w00t: Man, I miss those old punch 200ix's

I don't think hackers really care WHAT they mess with, just as long as the can mess with something...fuggin' hackers

Welcome sir...where are you from?

Obviously I agree with everyone above that the 4 Type R's will out perform the sigle 13w7, but I am amazed at how many people discount the W7's as an inferior sub. THE TRUTH..is, yes there are better subs out there that handle more power, for less $$$, but come on guys...the W7's are great subs. Two years ago I tried out two 10w7's in my hatch, with a single 1000/1 for power. The box was disigned by Dominick Butta at JL, ended up making 148.8 in the kick. The box played music extraordiarily well, and had great range as this was my DD. While most of you may not think that's great, many others would disagree.

You can kind of compare port design, to cylinder head design. You can't just go in and gut the head to creat flow because you'll actually lose velocity...in the case of port design for boxes, this would cause standing waves. The rolled edges (smoothed edges) of ports promotes better transition...lower turbulance...less port noise

I use a 1/2" as well....02 cents