runner800

It will if it works correctly its more like the wires smoke, the amp should turn off if the voltage drops too low

2088 watts to work with so you probably could get 1000 watts especially if you wire to 2ohms the amp is significantly more efficient at that "resting" load So, to run the T2500 reliably, I'll need a Mechman Alt and an XS D3100. Since the time I posted this a few days ago I have all but decided that a new Alt and battery will be purchased shortly after acquiring the amp. That sounds like plenty the t2500 is lovely if I wasn't so poor...

I did the measurement as an after thought for a physics final project last year, the actual goal was to measure the efficiency of the amp, I had probably been running a tone for about 8 to 10 min total that day. The amp can do the power I know it can, fosgate is awesome, it's my sorry excuse for an alternator that is letting me down

2088 watts to work with so you probably could get 1000 watts especially if you wire to 2ohms the amp is significantly more efficient at that "resting" load

I agree with that however the measured power that the speakers actually see at 60hz frq is 460 watts, the impedance rise is not easy to account for without a different procedure the theory is the same my amp is never going to do its birth rms on the stock alt.

so you clamped the amp and it did 460w at 1ohm? how exactly did you manage that. what is your sub wired to, did you get any impedance rise? Ac clamp meter, 60hz test tone, and an Ac volt meter using the equation for power, P=V*I, I'm not sure what the rise was but I'm sure it happened, I did meter batery voltage at the same time and the voltage drop at maximum clean volume was about 1.7 volts (14.4 to 12.7), I blame my 90amp alt, it can't push enough current to support the amps draw, the amp needs to draw 75.13 amps to do the 812 rms watts which just isn't going to happen on stock electric haha

But then why does it do that? Why what? Why does the amp try to keep output the same, pull more current or get hot? P=V*I v being voltage I being current in amps and P being power in watts. If V drops I increases to keep the same power thus more current, current at a basic level, moving electrons generate heat. Wires get hot and that is bad.

I've got a t500-1bdcp on a stock alt w/ 2 bats I clamped it at 460w clean, at 1ohm it's sufficient for me. The birth sheet said 812 rms tho. What is your alt amperage 110? If so you have a total of 1440 watts to run every electronic component in your car give or take. So in my experience you might get 800 watts out of the power 1000. Efficiency of the amp at 2 ohms is about 80% so do some math and your amp will draw at least 1250 watts in to do 1000 watts out assuming perfect alt output and no loss in the wires. That's a long answer to a simple question which is the power 1500 and 2500 won't be able to provide any more power than the 1000. They are awesome amps tho I love mine.

box design: total volume 3cu ft (after displacement) dual 3in ports about 9in long with a 1/2 round over flare custom milled trim ring hopefully wrapped in vinyl possibly painted black the whole thing will be braced even though I doubt the amount of power will show serious resonance issues.

I routed a half circle as far apart as I wanted ant then just cut out the part with a jigsaw and a fence

X2

Trusty router custom milled trim ring

You are 100% correct on all counts. But the cost was non negotiable so its going to have to work haha, I'm not proud but i ran a similar amp in my ride for about a year on BS 8 gage so I think it will be alright.

Components: (pics soon) Amp, RF R500-1D Subs, RF R2D2-12 Front speakers, Pioneer TS-G1644R 6.5in Head Unit, JVC KD-R530 Wires, DB link (smh) 8 gage (not CEA compliant)* Custom box vented tuned at 34hz *The amp can not draw more than 38 amps so the 8 gage wire on a 4ft run will be ok in theory but if it gets too hot I'll upgrade it to 4awg.

I think that adding the extra length only helps haha I like it low so it definitely doesn't hurt.