DJTucker

Sounds Amazing!

Easiest thing to do would be to common chamber everything... ... But make the enclosure a 3 piece enclosure.. ( Side - Middle - Side )..

Is it's s10c-4 or s10c-2??

My entire seat had to be taken off... :-( ... well - facing the front is more money involved.. * Cause you're going to have to seal everything off, have more precise cuts, longer lengths of wires, etc. *

Odd numbers usually give you ODD results... ... Unless it's (3) 3ohm subs... But ultimately, it's your setup - your money - your want... ... I just suggest and prefer to stay even and get a common ohm load...

I would go the SA-12s ... ( 4 of them - Not 5 )... ... For a daily pounder - in an SUV - with that power and the right enclosure - It's gonna be hard top you... ... 15s and 18s would be louder, sure... But the 12s still have more cone area - And they will sound & pound better all around.

The trunk had 1 layer of original dynamat on the trunk lid... ... They where facing the trunk ( really wouldn't make any sense to face the front - the seats dont let down.. ) Let me see if I can find them in my plans... ( I'm on my Laptop - they are probably on my Desktop... )

What brand subs... What vehicle... What are you tryin' to accomplish? ( numbers, street beating setup, daily driver )

If you're calling BS - All you have to do is go to Chucky's Connection in LongView, Tx - I'll make sure to be there... ... But it's not unreal - I could see if I said " 15?.?? " - that's gonna have to be a definite " do you have proof " statement... If you look closely, my entire rear dash is cut... the 4 6x9 board is masking that.. my trunk has (2) layers of Second Skin, (1) of extreme dynamat, and Great Stuff Expanding Foam inside of most of the panels in the trunk... ... My side walls of the trunk haven't been touched ( no dynamat - no filler ( Expanding foam )) - I honestly believe if I were to fill the 2 sides up, allow 2nd skin and dynamat like I did everything else... I WOULD ACHIEVE SOME MORE NUMBERS... ( My trunk is almost like a tube... ) ... But enough on me - Everyone is entitled to their own - It's all motivational in my eyes... .... Where's your Port placement? on the dash firing towards the rear window... or firing towards the front dash? And are your subs on your rear dash... Or facing forward into the cabin? Do you have a Gap in between the rear fold down seats, if so - How much is that gap... Are you using a Slot, Square, or Aero...

That looks damn good... It looks bigger than .6cuft though ... Unless it's just the way the picture was taken. I would honestly " T-Line " ( 1/4 Wave Length ) that SA-8...

... I DITTO THAT! - Tuning to 32Hz will gives the Power Acoustik Mofo better Sound Quality and allows it to have a better range in commercial music... 24hz - 47hz Is the range of most music now-a-days ( all Genre's included )

Im sorry but i cant help but to say bs. And why is that??? ... Because of the name brand subs? The OptiDrive 1232 is an amazing sub.... All you really would have to do is come to Ruston, LA & see for yourself But ANYWAY: On to the topic at hand... What's your current setup? ( Placement of Drivers, amp(s), sub(s), size, etc... )

(2) 15" Subs firing forward, ported give you the best numbers with it comes to drivers facing the cabin... ( Of course you have to seal everything off )... .... And yes I have proof.. I will be sure to make a video of me being metered next season - or during a Pre-Season Test & Tune... But this is a picture for a Test & Tune earlier this year of the TermLab Screen:

I'm hitting 147.9 ( Daily Setup ) with my (2) 12" Lanzar OptiDrive 1232s - (2) DB Drive DBA1600.1Ds ... The Enclosure is 38" W x 14.5" H x 25" D - Tuned @ 32hz ... Oh Yeah - I'm a 1999 Nissan Sentra GXE 4-Dr

I had these subs... And installed them in a 2002 Chevy Malibu - They sound the best ( and hit the hardest ) in this enclosure: 37" Wide x 14" High x 23" Deep - Tuned @ 32Hz ... Here's the Box Without The Subs:

I could build you one... But I live in Northern Louisiana ( Ruston )

The flexing of my panels ( Sucking in and out ).... my trunk wobbles ( I have Dynamat & I've reenforcced welded my trunk lid bars - NO HELP )

Thanks for the tips!!!!! ... I really appreciate it... And I'm not lookin' for showroom floor quality, honestly not lookin' for quality at all... ( it's at a minimum ) ... My system dents up my car & chips my paint, so i'm not about to spend $1000 or more on that ( Waste of money for me ) So " Grass Green " & " Jet Black " here I come...

Yeah - I was told that painting it would be somewhat of a losing battle... ... But it's mostly for Shits and Giggles & to change the look of the car ( Anything is better than that Nissan Grey Color ) And that's for the link - I'm about to look @ it right now!

I spray painted my car about 8 months ago... ( March 2010 ) ... I used CHEAP 96cent WALMART rattle cans... I was honestly just tired of that " Nissan Grey " color. I went into this not knowing how it would look, how to lay paint, NOTHING! This is 1 coat of the rattle can paint with no clear coat layer... ... I get compliments on the " Gun Metal Grey " look... I'm respraying it in Grass Green & Gloss Black... I'm going to use the Krylon Gloss & Flourescent Spray Paint & Clear - or just go to AutoZone and get the " DupliColor " Clear Coat ( For the spray gun ) for $24.99 and use my uncle's spray gun. I think it looks great for a something that was done in 4 hours, no shed, open air, ( I did mask everything off though )... ... WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK!!!???? BTW: I know that the paint it fading a little. I know it's chipping @ the door on the top part... ( Only because my door hing at the bottom doesn't have the Bushims on it between the car & the hing - so it's offset. ... But besides that - I think it's a GREAT, CHEAP ( $30 - That includes: 16 Rattle Cans, Sand Paper, Masking Tape & Bondo ) body work and paint job...