IKnowImLost224

What can you learn from the subs specs? Can you tell if it's more of a sq/spl sub? What can help determine a all around sub compared to one thats strictly spl for example? This may be a dumb question or may not even be possible but there are sub specs that I look at and have no idea what they mean. These are a few I am curious about and are taken from my RE XXX 15". Force Factor -Bl: 18.16 Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.58 Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 3.62 Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: .501 Free Air Resonance -Fs: 19.10 Hz Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 207.0 liters One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 54 mm Efficiency - SPL 1W/1m: 85.81 dB SPL Effective Piston Area -Sd: 810 cm^2

Damn, wish I woulda gotten mine signed and got the stickers lol. I use the DD-1 quite often cause I change stuff around so much

Steve, when I bought the DD-1 I never got the stickers. I always like to rep what I use!

Okay I did not know that about not being able to test current with a multimeter. Is the load tester the free check that like autozone or o reileys has?

I was under my hood and noticed some stuff coming out of the + terminal that I suspected to be acid. So I tested the voltage and got 12.6 volts. Then I tested the amperage with the car running and got no amps from + to -. Yet when I disconnected the kinetik and tried starting the car it still started. Without amperage wouldn't the car not start? Reason I ask is because I lost quite a bit of power in the past month or so and I'm wondering if that's why.

Well I have all the wood cut to the dimensions listed in the pic above. Gonna build the box tomorrow, can't wait!

I can go wider, but it makes it an extremely close fit. I would rather not build it then it not fit. My trunk is shaped stupid.

This is what I came up with...

Okay I'll try to see if I can get something figured out

WEll I made it wider and kept it in the port area range on Torres until I got the tuning where I wanted. Should I try to do something with both firing back?

Anybody??? Just wanna know if just facing the port back is gonna make that much difference

I know... I said that in the original post about the port being small and making it bigger

Help bump

I just made this box, it sounds like shit. I didnt know about port area before I made it. I wanna make close to the same thing except this time it will have a 3.75" port tuned to about 36 Hz. If I kept the sub firing up and just faced the port back would that be okay? Otherwise I wouldn't have much room for the sub to face forward.

My only thing with the Kenwood decks is the short range of volume. Never owned one but I know they only go to like 35 volume or something. Would that make the volume jump quite a bit with each +1?

Whats the difference between the excelon's and non-excelon kenwood decks?

Decaf where did ya go??? Lol

Or if someone else knows what Decaf is saying and can clear it up for me I would appreciate it

What do you mean by you need to trick your RCA's? Because I was recently having a issue after I switched my Pioneer H/U's. Never had a problem with my old one, but my new one sounds like it took my sub and just shat on it. They are both 4v pre-outs and have almost exact same specs as far as power and stuff but it sounds like my sub disappeared unless loudness is on and the sub option is +6 lol

That's good info to see. I also have a XXX 15 and have been trying to come up with a custom enclosure

Lmao, I think I understand it. If I knew what all the abbreviations meant

Decaf, I kind of understand what your saying but not sure I have a complete grasp of it. Can you give me an example? I'm using the RE XXX 15" powered by a sundown SAZ-2500D at just over half gain

Also, I am going sub/port towards trunk rear

I did end up changing the baffle. I won't have the room to make the RE "Optimum" box. So I am trying to stay between the Optimum and Compact.