carshateme

Okay, I bought a 220 amp alternator from ebay for a 1995 buick skylark 3.1L....biggest mistake of my life...I'm sure they sold me a faulty alternator. It works fine and supplies the power I need when I'm giving my car gas...but when I'm at idle, it dims the lights and my heater dies down in fan speed. I tried upgrading the cable to 1/0 welding wire...I gotta try re grounding the alternator to see if that's the issue....but if it isn't, I'm going to have to purchase another one...because I can't have my alternator dying on me...so I was looking up some different alternator..and I found one from DB electrical for $207 for 200 amps.. http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-4410-skylark-high-output-alternator-88-89-90-91-92-93-94-95-7860-11.aspx Just wanted to know if they're worth trusting...considering I probably already got ripped off once.

Try SuperAntiSpyware and MalwareBytes. What is it doing when you download it...or is it no allow any thing to download?....or is it not opening up the program?

Err...if that's the case then why did someone on these forums tell me that you can have 1/2 the length of port from board to wall? -.-'

Sorry, that's how you bypass a regulator. But I'm pretty certain the whining is the results of what I listed above. I live in Flint/Genesee MI. Not far from you. BTW I love your Henry guy sniffing some coke.

I owned a 95 Lumina back in the days and I had a similar problem. I had to bypass the ground in the alternator, most alternators have them, I re grounded it and it worked like a charm. The are referred as a test hole in the alternator. But like I said above alternator whining is usually caused by bad bearings, a loose pulley, or the wrong size serpentine belt, normally due to a tight pulling of the pulley.

Alternators should not be "whining" maybe a bad regulator? Whining results from a loose pulley or the wrong size serpentine belt or a bad bearing. The flickering can be caused by bad ground, bad connection, bad fuse.

Oh I never make my boxes until I get other peoples opinions. That's just a design. I used 12volt and hometheatershack. I didn't see any on 12volt, but I'll recheck now. Thanks

It's all good I appreciate the input =] I would do the / ^ \ Setup, but I don't have a calculator that will calculate that volume.

Yes...I know lol...my calculator did that calculation. xD I was wondering what you were getting at...it was already subtracted and put into the equation.

Ah, my friend wants em all pointed upwards...so I have to do a rectangular box...He's using the polk db1240 subwoofers.. All I could find was .10 on the displacement.

I told him it was impossible to build the box unless he took down his seat, he said it was fine...so here's the design I came up with. Box Dimension: 27x20x52.5 Port Dimension: 25.5x4x17.5 Subwoofer Displacement is .10 Tuned at 32 hz Total Volume after Subwoofer displacement and port displacement is 12.008 Correct any mistake I made. Thank you. Should I place a brace in the middle of the box?

Can you explain this more...because I have my headunit set at 0 dB, my amp set at 2v gain (For that's what the voltage output is) and the dB on the amp is going to be set at 0....or can it be raised... Thanks.

They'll be 12s

Okay I have a friend who wants me to make him a box for 8 subs, ported. He owns a 98 blazer and wants the box tuned at 32 hz, the subs are unknown. He just wants a sketch of what the box will look like and such. I just need ideas on how to do this project. Thank you for you input. -Carshateme

Here's my new box I designed for the level 3 subs. Dimension: 30.5 x 15 x 18.5 Port Dimension 3 x 13.5 x 22.5 Middle brace: 3 x .75 w .75 slants

I believe all of you that are saying that the amp is less RMS than rated, It's rated at about 1800RMS, since the last time I took it in and got it measured. The 3 Cubic is measured after displacement of the sub and the port. And I'd prefer an under powered sub over an over powered sub...I tend to abuse my subwoofers. I would buy the level 5 or XL but I'm on a budget =( The level 4s are costing me $624. you can still abuse a underpoweredsub by clipping those can take a lot more than 1k on clean power. Why stuff the box? Wouldn't that mess with airflow? Idk was told it'd help with bass dynamics..."tricking the subwoofer it was in a small box"

I don't know...should I? I have a past of completely blowing up subwoofers....well the lead tinsels or the voice coils....or the drivers ><" the lvl 3s would take it easily if you set your gains with a scope or a dd-1. even if you get the lvl 4s that amp could still blow them if you clip. Errr...lol I'll have someone at a local audio shop do that for $20 =( Thank you though. =] Saved me some money

I don't know...should I? I have a past of completely blowing up subwoofers....well the lead tinsels or the voice coils....or the drivers ><"

Sorry, I'm confused. Cut the port in half? Can you be more specific, lol, sorry I'm a bit of a blonde. What I'm percieving is that you are saying that the port is going to be 1.5" away from the back wall? Which will increase the center ports? This is the right way to build the port. thank you very much, I very much appreciate the picture =D I shall redesign my box now. =D

I believe all of you that are saying that the amp is less RMS than rated, It's rated at about 1800RMS, since the last time I took it in and got it measured. The 3 Cubic is measured after displacement of the sub and the port. And I'd prefer an under powered sub over an over powered sub...I tend to abuse my subwoofers. I would buy the level 5 or XL but I'm on a budget =( The level 4s are costing me $624.

Sorry, I'm confused. Cut the port in half? Can you be more specific, lol, sorry I'm a bit of a blonde. What I'm percieving is that you are saying that the port is going to be 1.5" away from the back wall? Which will increase the center ports?

Hifonics HIF2000D

Okay, I'm going to be purchasing 2 level 4 12" DC subwoofers to replace my 4 10" ALUM10N Audiobahns. What I would like to know is if a 2000 RMS Hifonic amplifier would the trick for both these subs and if the box (Shown below) is a good fit for the DC subs. ( I will be putting "pillow stuffing" in the box to increase the bass ) The box is tuned at 32hz, has a cubic volume of 3.018. Dimensions of the box will be 30 x 15 x 19. Port dimensions will be 3 x 13.5 x 21. I don't know if I tuned it correctly, for I just recently learned that I've been doing all my ports on the boxes wrong...and I now have to contact everyone I made boxes for to redo them... So if anyone could tell me if this box is alright for these subs and what I plan to do with the box is okay, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you very much. =D

It's all good, it's a forums...it's open discussion. Um well a while back, I had some sundown z12...both being pushed at 1k rms, the ported box I had.....well the ports kinda blew out. So...I had to put some braces in between them...and it did just fine...and then I blew my subs. lol.....at the time I had a few broom sticks and I was kinda drunk and was too lazy to cut the MDF board...so I used the broom stick instead. Thus the reason why I got the idea. and the "take up the volume" box I was talking about was the box with the 4 circles in it. The one with like 6 braces in the middle of the port...was a support...so the air pressure wouldn't blow it apart...