tacomabanga1986

haha, yall pay to damn much i get 4x8ft 3/4 13ply baltic birch for $10 a sheet thats why i dont fool with mdf, and its cabinet grade plywood too, grade A shit but my dad works for local building supply and i get homie discounts, but they sell it for $30-$35 a sheet anyways, and i get to cut my shit on there panel saw so its all pritty much done befor i get it home lol but birch is alot better than mdf, alot stronger and depends on what kinds but some can be lighter than others too, but for the money u cant beat it

i thought some mclass amps had fuses in the bottom of the amp? i knew the 4ch did but i dunno bout the 2200

ditto u want a inline fuse to blow befor the amps fuseing but i really wonder if a fuse as big as 250-300amps will acually blow if it was to short or just set there n pump hella current threw the cars chassis why i said this is cause my buddy was working on my friends car and was takeing out her old setup n he found some 0guage just layin in the bottom of her spare tire well wit bare wire touching the metal and he went to under the hood n the 150amp fuse was glowing red but never blew so i come to think, can someone take some big batteries like a kenetik 2400 or powermaster d3100 and make a dead short like put some 0guage to a fuse block and touch the other end to the battery neg just to see if it will blow a 250-300amp fuse cause thats what a house runs on and i really dont think it will blow unless u got a shit ton of batteries in ur setup maby steve could try this, i dnt think the battery will blow up cause ive caused a dead short on accident and nothing happined ecept burnt the insolation off the wire cause u get some damn 0guage wit 300amps flowing threw it without the fuse blowing that shit can cut a car in half lol

lol ok this is how the fuseing works if ur 0guage wire can carry 300amps then put a 300amp fuse in it, one at front and one at rear if u got 2 batteries, this might sound stupid but it makes alot of sence ok the fuse from front battery going to the back protects the current flowing from the front battery to the back battery the fuse at back battery protects the current flowing to the front battery and then when u branch off the rear battery to amps and what knot u can fuse there too if u want to, u really never want the fuse in ur amp blowing and for ur amp i would try dis, for how much power an amp is capable of makeing u do this, now this is not what an amp will do but the most it is setup to do, doesnt mean it will do it but is what its built for u take 12(for 12volts), times the amount of fuseing like my amp has 4 30amp fuses in it, and u get 1440, this means that the amp can not produce more than 1440w(now i kno all bout 16v shit and this is not the case lol) and to get how much fuseing you will need u can take your watts 2200, and devide that by 12 and u get 183.3amps witch meants this is the most amps it will pull give or take a lil bit so if u want to you can throw a 200amp fuse in there inline to rear battery if u have one and will be fine, my buddy did a setup with the mk4d and he needed 2 300amp fuses on it so u should be good with around 200amps man hope this makes since to you and anyone else wanting to fuse ish in there car's, took me about 3yrs to finally figure it out lol

cool shit man, i useto have 2 of those in 12's and they wanged like hell on my 600w 2ch amp i tryed mine in a prefab ported box n it sounded like crap so i just went n built some sealed boxs for em and it wanged

i have this same problem with my geo but for some reason my cap kept draining my battery when i wasn't even driving it at all, and i got the big 3 done to it also with a 75amp alt, and i got a hell of alot bigger system in my truck wit a 70amp alt so i unno wtf is wrong i would try to unhook the amp n see what happins or maby a dead cell in ur battery but since u got a new one that's not the case i would say alt goin bad or try to do teh big 3 n see if that helps

lucky bish

the stuff i use has no name on it this is the stuff i use, it's the stuff they useto use on metal duckwork for heating and airconditioning http://www.findtape.com/product565/Nashua-360-45-Heavy-Duty-Foil-Mastic-Butyl-Rubber-Sealant-Tape.aspx?idx=4&tid=2&info=aluminum+foil i only have one layer on my doors and it works great, and is pritty cheap priced too, i might pick some more up later and this is nothing like peal n seal lol

u could always use the stuff i do i cant afford shit but this stuff is cheap and works pritty good i dunno wtf u call it but it has aluminum foil on one side and rubber on the other side, i lined my doors with it and what knot and my doors real solid its like 30-40ft on a roll for like $20-$30, i dunno if lowes sells it or not, its some stuff i got out of my gpas old workshop and decided to use it, i think it goes on roll roofing, its not peal n seal cause that uses tar, this is rubber and has no smell to it, or mine dont and over the rubber is a blue film to keep it from sticking together and to keep your back deck from rattleing u can do what i did, i built a new one out of 1/2'' birch plywood and screwed it to the back deck with screws and no problem anymore, i mostly did it cause mine was dry rotted and speaker holes wasnt big enough for 6&1/2's so i made lil boxs for em heres a pic of it anyways what kinda setup u runnin, sounds good

exactly, my 3way xover does the same thing that amp does, and ive played around with it a while trying to run some of my old speakers active just to see what it sounds like and lol, its harder than you think to set shit like this

are these coax or a comp set? cause the only way ive ever blown a tweet on a coax was from switching the hpf on the headunit back n forth and it blew it but if its a comp set i would run it like this tweets on front channel set to about 300 500 and move that switch to x10, and hook the 6x9's to rear channel and set it to x1 @ around 80-100htz that x1 and x10 either timeses the freq setting by 1 witch keeps it the same, or by 10 witch times it by 10 examples are amp set to 300htz @ x1 is 300htz amp set to 300htz @ x10 is 3000htz, kinda lets you run active in a way, my 3way xover does the same thing hope this helps, but if its a coax set all the hpf from 50-500 is only gunna do is adjust the midrange going to teh speaker, not the tweet, it has its own stand alone xover cap so shouldn't have blown, unless it blew the cap, and if so u can run active thats what i do

if it was me i would fire the sub to the side and port it at top, or make it kind alike a backwards downfire box firing it twards the back of the cab, and port it threw the top so u can put an angle on the back of the box to set ur seat back on to hell i might just halfto build something like this for the hell of it just to see how it sounds, but i dunno much bout ported boxs so i would halfto make it sealed anyways hope ur box does good mang

how the hell do u check amps with a dmm? my uncle used one to check my alt on my geo when i changed it but i forgot how he did it everytime i put it on amps the wires get hot n shit, but this was on a cheaper dmm my meter has a clamp on it but it only checks ma(miliamps) on dc so i unno what to set it to to check amps with the leads so i can see if my alt in my truck is putting out close to what it is susposto or is going to shit lol

and on a side note, for what i do with mine, i halfto trust it with my life everyday, and you do get what you pay for but i do hvac and work on high voltage type stuff mostly, and dont use it for much car voltage but works great for either, and will last a hell of a long time, and has alot of features, and looks cool too

i use this and love it http://cgi.ebay.com/Fieldpiece-SC77-True-RMS-Digital-Stick-Meter-HVAC-/360252951450?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e0bfcb9a i got mine for $150 @ Trane and i love it, its just as good as a fluke at less than half the price, and doesn't auto range like most cheaper meters, it goes spot on voltage and what knot and stays there, even checks temp and comes wit aligator clips and everything i love mine, best money ive spent on a meter i can take some pics of mine tommrow if u want me to

burn mp3 cds and it wont do that i think thats why most ppl run dvd decks in there car cause for some reason those type cds dont skipp like a regular 18song disk will i would get a ipod, or a deck with a usb slot for a memory stick, or burn mp3 cds could help thats why i got an ipod now, cds skip like hell in my truck, even bluegrass cds skip i think its more a higher note song make it skip than a lower one cause thats how mine does anyway but could be diff between cars u could add a support for the back of the deck were that screw is and could help vibration somewhat good luck on gettin ur problem fixed mang, i hate tryin to demoing my truck and cant get loud due to cd skipping, ipod ftmfw!

cant be much to it, and for what there asking for em its well worth it i got like 6 ground loop isolators in my room that i dont even need and dont even do shit and i can use those line out converters for lil jobs like adding a small system to a stock radio or somethin

i think this is one hell of a deal and i can use em alot and was wondering for the price would yall get em? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-050

yalls shops must be shitty cause the ones around here are cool as shit my buddy owned a shop locally but closed due to financial stuff but he tought me how to fiberglass, run wire n rcas, hook up speakers, how to test shit, how to build boxs, and everything, i just set around his shop when he did shit n never got in his way n just seen how it was done and i helped him tune a few cars too since the guys that worked for him didn't kno shit ive only been doing car audio for about 10yrs or so so im still a somewhat noob, but i kno a hell of alot now cause of SMD than what i did back then and x2 on ppl sellin just alpine n jl shit, i like jl audio and alpine's products but theres alot of other stuff out there thats good that they dont need to mark up a hell of alot to sell and a few other shops around here sell good products and are nice to about anybody that comes in there, and help me with doing other ppls installs, and one dude went from selling mtx, memphis, and kicker, to selling digital designs and hertz so he's doin damn good for himself but i kno some shop owners and installers can be ass hats but thats were we can just show other ppl that we kno more and what knot

only way to make something like that is take a piece of maby 1/2'' copper pipe and smash it in on one side, and cut it off, then grind it a lil bit, then cut the middle out bout the only thing u can do or modd something or if ur amp uses those type screws that have a lil plate on top that "bites" down the wire just get 1/0guage ground lugs from ur local electrical supply store thats what i did when i had my mtx 500d, and i still use em every now again, there like 2 for $1 or somethin like that or thats how much mine were there pure copper, and have a alan screw to hold the wire, i love em, and they fit in places were 4guage wire will fit mine look like this one but its round than square

$10? shipped, i got paypal, and the fuse holder i just got is missing one of the screws that holds the wire so i will halfto mod it so i can use it lemmie kno something mang, i need one to run inline to my rear battery and i can use my 4way dist block for my amps pm me what u will need and we can work something out

sounds good man, what kinda power u runnin? theres a guy that got a type r 15 to do 150's so they are some pritty good subs i love how there surrounds are, makes em look sick

i think he did this on purpose? and theres other ways of blowing speakers besides clipping theres thermal and mechanical too thermal is were the sub moves to fast and doesnt create enough air movement and gets to warm n burns up the voice coil and mechanical is were u try to get a speaker to play freq's its not built for and it over excurts itself and rips itself apart but ya, good shit bro, just dont breath the smoke, it can kill u lol

fisher ftw! i got an old merantz 400w 4ch receiver but my dad tried to hook it up and fuked the amp up in it so its just a paper weight till i can find someone that can repair oldschool receivers i also got a 200w 4ch mitsubishi home receiver also that the amps fried in it, they both cut on but no sound comes out and they did work befor anyone kno of someone that can repare em? and i love fisher speakers too, they sound killer for what they are, just wished ppl would stop blowing them all to shit on youtube, dude had like 4 or 5 sets of fisher speakers from 8''-15'' 3ways and played woofercooker on all of em, i cant stand ppl doin that shit to some good speakers but i guess they dnt kno any better

lol, maby the "clusterfuck" of wires in trunk might be causeing the noise? and my buddy that works at local shop had the wierdest problem with engin noise, the amp could be faceing one way n cause engin noise, and he turned it around and it stopped lol what kinda rcas do you have now? i useto run stinger rcas that are blue with aluminum foil looking stuff inside, and they went to shit so i now run kicker rcas and love em