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tacomabanga1986

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Everything posted by tacomabanga1986

  1. i got dibs on the pioneers, will send payment sometime tommrow
  2. y dont people do 220v @ 50htz? to hard to wire a sub? well i dont think u can do 220 to a sub due to 2 main wires then ued have to come off of a common to get the current to flow, so i guess 110-120v is all we got i got an idea, wire in a dimmer switch in a drop cord and see if it has any effect to the sub, would be a neat idea i think ive never wall socketed a sub befor, if i want to blow it i just hook it to my amp, sometimes it handles the amp better than i would have hoped and ive always wonderd, does ohms law work with ac current, like a .5ohm load vs a 4ohm load, do u get more power?
  3. jl doesn't make a recone for the older w0 woofers do they? i got a 10 and a 12 with "rotted" surrounds, they sounded great and still work good but without a surround im screwed, i wonder if a partsexpress's surround kits might work for it tho, if not i might just make a video and blow it lol, the w0 12 handled 600rms likea champ good woofers the jl but a bit to expensive
  4. i might be interested in the pioneers, pm me a price shipped to 28645
  5. Got it at yardsell. I was gunna fix it to put in din so I can put my 32" LCD back in my bedroom., I also got a 56" rear projection Toshiba that all. It needs is a mirror. I broke it on my way home., everything. Works on it too Don't mind spelling. Im on phone
  6. this is the tv http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HL-R4266W-42-Inch-Widescreen-HDTV/dp/B0009EXVIA
  7. i got a good deal on a tv but i need a bulb for it, the lamp is Samsung BP96-01073A i found one on amazon for, well heres the link http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-BP96-01073A-Watt-Lamp-Replacement/dp/B005GM57PA can one be had cheaper some place? thats pritty good as i found one of same bulb for $160 also its a 42'' dlp tv, i was gunna fix it so i can put my 32'' back in my room, or i can keep this one, dont matter lol and if its just a bulb problem, is there anything that needs adjusted, or just swap out bulb and its fixed? i dont want to order anything off the net, but if i have to then i have no choice heres another link http://www.apexlamps.com/index.php?main_page=product_lamp_info&cPath=1_3&products_id=1013
  8. I like the dual ilumite speakers. Good response from all music types off deck power. I ran mine from a old Sony cdplayer I know quality and dual don't go together but there good for the money
  9. it could have damaged equitment, but it could also be the install, as to where u moved the stuff a guy i kno said the only way he could get rid of noise in a system he was working on was to mount the amp upside down, it was wierd but worked u could unhook everything, and lay it out and test it where everythings not close to a battery/power wires and see if its just interference causing your problem i dunno what else u could check right off hand, if it was the output rca on teh amp it could be bad but i dunno do u have 1 rca going from a mids n highs amp and then out to a sub amp threw the amps preouts? try to bypass it to see if that helps hope u get it fixed
  10. oh, well hope nothing bad is wrong with it tho this aint a cheap hobby, hell im amazed they aint came out with fuses for rcas when people run those maxlinks and what knot that ups the voltage to around 10 or so volts, prolly not enough current to do much damage tho
  11. one question, why is the battery so close to the rcas in the first place? lol but ya, what ray said, prolly shorted out the rcas on the deck, would this effect speaker level outputs as well or no? might can keep deck for speaker level outputs and then to rcas if amps are still good till he gets the pioneer
  12. could have popped the picco fuse in teh pioneer try your amps with a y rca jack with 2 male rca ends on one end and a 3.5mm headphone jack on the other and hook it to a ipod or cdplayer to make sure the inputs on the amp aint fried a rca shouldn't arc with the little power going threw it, u might have a short some place, rcas are normally grouned on the outside and the inside pin completes the circuit, u can do the "grounding of the rcas" thing to see if that helps all i can think of is this^ i think it could be the picco fuse on the rcas that does this, i think thats why i have to ground the rcas on my 680mp headunit, to much messing with stuff with shit rcas, now that i got good ones i leave them alone, its pheonix gold, knu, or kicker rcas from now on, some stingers are shit or mine where hope u get it fixed
  13. What kind of headunit is it? Pioneer is known for this problem Google "grounding rcas and try that. Its the only way I can keep my 680 from doing it., my 860 don't whine at all tho Hope this fixs your problem
  14. haha, i member the game they had for sega, i used to have all of there tapes, good shit same as always, i still love when they tried to help there neighbor build the swimming pool any month when it will be on,and will it be mtv or mtv2? and i wish they will bring back celebrity death match
  15. damn this is cool http://www.wimp.com/squareholes/ i dunno wtf u would use it for ecept something like square tubing or something anyways i like it, alot of tech the japs has
  16. most factory harnesses will handle up to 55w ballasts, if they dont u can hard wire in a relay (if u dont know how they work look at the12volt.com under relays, it will help u on down the road), 55w kids usally fade the colors more lighter than 35w (ddm has a color chart to show u what colors are what) and if u register to there support forum they will give u any help u need, and have some nice threads on hid issues with your car not accepting hids, i read on my fog lights manual and they where halogens but i switched them to hids, and it said if mounted nere bumper its not reccomended because it can interfere with air bag sensor, i have yet to have any issues with this and has anyone else i know of to have hids thats prolly a sign to tell u due to hids haveing a "hotter" heat than a halogen, in some cases my hids are not as hot as my halogens once where some cars could use a harness to do something with codes so they will work also ddm doesn't recomend useing hids in an application where u have day time driving lights as the lower voltage doesn't have enough power to "excite" the ballasts so could damage ballasts and what knot now some cases u will need to remove the headlight assembly due to how its engineered to change the bulbs, all of there kits are plug and play, but if u dont have any holes to put a bolt in to ground the ballasts, u might need to wire the ballasts together and run to battery neg, but im some cases thats all the "major" work u need to do i love my hids, wished my stock housings where clear tho without the built in reflector thing heres a pic of my fogs and headlights, headlights are 8000k, fogs are 5000k, both are 35w hope i haven't confused you, if u have any questions just ask
  17. I have dem 5000k 35watt hide in my fogs and there as white. As I ever had For $100 you can get 5000k 55watt ddms and they will be as bright as you would want I'll. Post pics of mine when I get home. On my phone right now
  18. 9th grade in economics and government class, dude walked into class room and said something about it and then teacher turned on the tv, watched it all day that day i know theres alot of conspericy talk about it happened and what knot but its more remebered for the people that died that day rip 911 people, workers and emergency crews
  19. when u do power supplys like this, do u want to use all yellow 12v wires and the same amount of black wires? or is 1 enough? and ive got a 900w server supply but it has all different wiring on it, it comes on but i need some kinda resistor to put a load on the wire but take it off as soon as the supply powers on, i know it has some power, it has 2 2&1/2'' fans on one side and holes on the other for air flow, and then something like 10guage wire comeing out of it, says it does around 15amps @ 12v but i dont seem to get no more than 2-3amps max for some reason anywho, power supplys work wonders in house, work good to power anything u need pritty much, get a digital multi meter and check your wires to see what voltage they are, u can use it to power 12v componits other than car stereo stuff i tried to wire a battery inline of the power converter and it dont work the best, i got a small 20ah battery from a jumper pack i got, when battery is charged it trys to cut on the converter making it backfeed in one another, same thing would work with your capacitor also if u run a 200w amp try to get a 250-300w power supply, i got a new one for my comp for around $50 from staples and its 350w, my other ones signal wires (green/black) messed up when lighting came in and i had to fix it, supply is still good but doesn't work for comp no more hope this helps in what ur trying to do, u wont get the same amount of current like u would with a car battery and a car charger but it will work fine also, u dont want a battery in ur house with a charger, fumes and what knot, unless its a agm, but this is best for budget if ur looking to go big, kenitek makes a 90amp power supply to help with people at car shows charge there batteries and what knot, works good, but in the $300 range
  20. tommrow if it dont rain im gunna do some pittleing with it, if i have to i'll run new wires i have a good ground on my amp but if a wire is pinched or what knot im just gunna have to run new wires i mean amp plays fine and its crystal clear, could be shorting out some place and i not know it, bitch about it is is that where my rear speakers are it would take me like 1hr to just feed the wires to them, i think there fine, just my front speaker wires might be shit, im gunna re hook up my 14guage back from the i think 16x8 wire i had when i was running active and see if that helps, the 16x8 wire has so much shielding on it that its a bitch to strip the wires, hell it even has ground wires running down the middle with aluminum around all speaker wires, works good for speed wiring but for this i dunno, i'll leave it where its at just not hook it up
  21. i dont have anywhere to send it to, it was from an authorized memphis dealer i got it from tho hell ive got a hifonics 4406 4ch amp setting in a box in my room that i need looked at, everything looks great on it, just powers on and goes str8 to protect i mean ive had it for a good 4 or 5 years and its beast, i wonder if it just gets hot cause its hot out but its out in the open and even with my sub amp wired down to 1ohm the sub amp dont get as hot as the 2ch, hell i couldn't even hold my hand on it for longer than 5-10sec ive never had a amp get this hot and not turn off, works flawlessly tho, great sq and what knot, just not as loud as it used to be tho, i can tell as i turn up the volume the mids n highs tend to stay the same, they get a little louder tho i know my preouts are 6.5v and the amps line input voltage is 2-4v, i dont see this being an issue but i dunno now one day i was jamming to some country and had it cranked and i started to smell something hot like electrical and i felt of the amp so i took it easy on it, i thought it was my subs getting warm but they was still "room temp" this was the country song i was jammin to, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z01GUR24QZk i might just wire up the front comps and see if its the 2ohm load, i'll check the ohm load and what knot tommrow
  22. these are the front speakers link to front speakers http://www.polkaudio.com/partners/press.php?id=28 front speakers are polk audio db6500 6&1/2'' comps, and there merine certified rear seakers are polk audio db651 6&1/2'' coax (the new kind) i got the front left comp set and rear left coax wired to 2ohm on left channel, and right front comp set and right rear coax wired to right side at 2ohms amp is memphis pr150.2 http://www.audiosavings.com/products/2-channel-Car-Amplifier/MEMPHIS-AUDIO-16-PR150.2-300-WATT-2-CHAN-CAR-AMPLIFIER/16PR150.2RB.aspx damn i wish i knew rob so i could get another one of these, i hope he has soem laying around ive had this thing for like 4years or so, got it brand new, never ran below 12v, best 2ch amp ive ever had ecept for the ma audio hard core 2ch i had
  23. well put in the old box, works a shit ton better than what i had its around 3cf befor displacement, 2.47ft^3 tuned to 33.94htz with 11.74sq^2 of port 22'' port box is 16''H, 24''W,17 3/8''D, port is 14.5'' tall, 2'' wide, first part is 13 1/8'' long, then 8 5/8'' long so around 22'' of port sounds a hell of alot better than old shit box, and shakes everything in my truck, i'll make a video of it later, i just wonder why its a hell of alot louder inside the truck than outside? by the way, ive got this box setup as a downfire box rather than upfire, sounds better
  24. im wondering whats wrong with my amp, it plays perfecly fine, just when i turn it on the protect light comes on and then goes off and cuts on, and it gets really hot its 2ohm stable and i have it wired to 2ohm, what could be the issue? it has a built in fan and it still works, i just wonder why it does this voltage doesn't go below 13v or so, i wonder why it gets hot, all wires are crimped and wrapped with electrical tape, i just dunno what it is i dunno if one of the mosfets or something is causing it to heat up so bad or wut ive got 4guage going to it for power and ground, speakerwire is 16ish guage wire about 2ft long then going to the 14x8 wire i got, i wonder if wire size causes to much resistance and making it get hot?
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