alaskanzx5

what?? real tools. i thought carving the cut with a pocket knife and and using my hand lenght for measuring was the best way to do it. good luck, staight cuts and a steady hand works the best.

oh well since you have better programs i guess you could use those lol. but yeah it is within port range i was just giving my 2 cents. damn no im broke i should have kept thost pennies.

id run xs but shipping is a killer. i could always get some oddesy's from batteries plus or shuriken from image audio but i would much rather have xspower. dsktim - wasnt there 3-4 people out of the what 12-14 people at the last show asking about where you got you xs batteries from? beside me that is cuz i know i told you we need a dealer for them up here

maybe a lil more port and slightly more gross volume if you up the port size, most people do between 14-16sq " of port per foot with being closer to 16sq" being the more common design from what i have seen. but looks good to me, you should get the free version of the google sketchup program and use it to make a 3d image of your box and lay out you cuts on the sheets of wood you gonna use so that you dont waste any wood.

lol, got mine working. i guess i turned on this activex filtering and it was stopping the videos from loading

mine empties on a set schedule. was working fine this morning but wont work now.

i use explorer and ive been having the same issue all day. maybe an issue with the site? or the 3 of us are just having bad luck?

come on guys, alaska needs some xs power supply.

it looks exactly like a prefab i had about 2 years ago. when i say exactly i mean exactly to lol. the carpet on it was coming off like that and the size of it based on the pic looks the same

looks like a prefab box if you ask me.

make the hole small and force the wire through, if you cant get the wire through use the same bit and run it through the whole one more time then try agian. get the hole just big enough to where the wire will barely force through it and then use some caulkin, silicone, or the rubber spray.

sure, im no expert by any means though. ive only been doing this for 3 years and just started to design my own boxes and get into the electrical end of the car audio world this year. i can give pointers and advice but in truth the only car i know anything about when it comes to car audio is my hatchback focus. i can and will give pointers based on what i have seen people on here do with their sedans and what i have read works and what has worked for me. you should search the members build section for sedan builds for ideas and things to consider

from what i could find micheal singer makes the biggest alt for the focus, 250 amp at just under 400 shipped to any lower 48 states. mechman make a 220 amp alt but comes with an adjustable volt regulator. the size of alt you need will depend on the amount of power your running. either way though if you going for sp and sq your gonna need a few batteries and if you realy want to fit some batteries in that car either your gonna loose your back seat or you will have to go with either 2 12 a single 15 or some 10s that can take some abuse.

you can do about 38-40" wide 14-17" tall and about 24-25 deep if i remember right. a single 18 would be hard to pull off but a single 15 could be done fairly easy. 2 12s could be done or 2 10s real easy. a bnox for a single 18 would have to be built inside the trunk most likely maybe the same with a single 15 but would be easier then an 18. my suggestion either 2 12s sub foward port foward sealed off or the same thing but with a single 15. its in a sedan to though so your gonna want to be able to run some good amount of power to the subs you get and an h/o alt would help a lot.

my tropies from 6 of 7 competions ive competed in. 4 2nd place trophies, 2 1st place tropies and my 7th competition i took 1st and as my trophy they will be installing an autostart/car alarm, about a $700 package so my newest trophiy will be hanging from my key chain. score from last comp - 146.6 on an ac-170 at 44hz latest score on the ac-190 is a 144.5 at 44hz just a little update, i have done part of the big 3, my engine ground and battery ground are 1/0 gauge now gotta wait on my dad to do the alt power wire seeing as to how he has the tools for it. also might do a new box now, i know i can do a little bit better then what im doing. just gotta find the right box my next possible box - still looking at options -

the cat for not sharing your dinner, that is if it was fish or if the cat is like garfield anything other then cat food. lol

so could being slightly high on port area make me lose db? the torres box calc says 48-64" and im at 67".

i have to box port up sub up port on passenger side. i would turn the box around so that its facing up but with port on driver side but then i would have to move the amp, battery ect ect. and there just isnt enough room to move the battery anywhere else. the inside of the port is rounded, but there isnt a 45 in the port where it turns. i know it can help and its on my to do list. the wires are going straight to the box just like how you explained it. i dont have the meter but i can get it metered about every 2 weeks at no cost with the same meter everytime. im leaning towards building a new box with round ports since ive heard a good amount of people have had better luck with round ports. i just cant find a way to do it sub up port back with enough room between the port and back of the car. i could if i dont do subs up port back but there has been people who have had better luck subs up port back. the max dimensions i can go is 18.75 high x 37.75 wide x 17 deep. i want the box to be at/around 4 cuft after all displacement with a box tuning around 40-45hz. it seems to like peaking at 44hz sub up port up and 51hz sub back port back. so if the box is deisgned to peak between 44-51hz is where i should be peaking with sub up port back, or atleast thats what im guessing. for the cost of 2 more sheets of mdf i can build another slot port box. i have plenty of wood glue, caulking and threaded rod for another box build or 2 just have to buy more wood. i do have a competition im going to on the 26th and i would like to be at or above 145 so im gonna try to gain a little by rounding the outside of the port and adding a 45 to the inside of the port an atleast sand the inisde of the port some if i can get enough time. if i can find a way to more the box so the port is on the driver side and find something to do with the battery then i will. just hoping to be at or above 146 by the end of the summer.

yeah i remember seeing you there. what was your score agian? well if i can gain a little by using round ports i would like to but i do prefer slot port

so if i was to do the round port design above, would these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352 at a total lenght of 13" work for the port?

i would rather not have to change out boxes. its just me and my wife and its hit or miss with my freinds when it comes to getting help. these speakers and box are no light weight lifting. current box with subs weighed in just below 230lbs. put it in the car by myself and ended up pulling a muscle or something in my back.

kinda, i want high numbers. this will most likely be my last year actualy trying to win. next year it will be more of just to show up at the shows hang out and compete for the love of the sport. if i go the route of the round ports i could always find a way to make it to where i can change the port just for competing. even in the current box tuned to 43hz i can still play into the high 20hz. sounds fantasic down to around 30-32hz. changable ports would be nice though.

^ round port design, could use some help with this one. i do like that it is smaller though, it will allow me to have more room for amp(s) battery ect ect.... ^ the modified slot port design, sub up port back. would be able to give a good 4-6" of room between port and hatch lid. will make a sketch up later but for now do either of those look better then the current? thanks for all the help in advance. trying to get my lows setup and done by the end of the summer and finish my mids and highs this winter. then it on to the performance of the car. got a lot in store for that.

^as mentioned, already have it sub up port up, thats how i did the 144.5 at 44hz. i just noticed that the torres calc says port area range 47"-63" and i have it at 67". could this affect the score in a bad way? i should have noticed it before and kept it closer to 55". will make a new box design using round ports and another with a slot port and see what you guys think. they will be subs up port back. just saw on another thread team bassic said that the ford focus loves subs up port back and then there is your advice asweel so i guess i cant realy go wrong with trying.

^ on the list of things i can try.