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TeamHirshAudio

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About TeamHirshAudio

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  1. Quick update on the speaker rack for the wakeboard tower. Been very busy with finals this week, hoping that on friday I can completely finish the rack and get the amps wired into the boat! Up next, Sub boxes! Ill ive done from last time is add the mounts where i connected some exhaust clamps which will hold the rack on the tower. I really didnt want to spend $60 PER CLAMP so thought I could get away with some stainless exhaust clamps to add the the tower. Might have to add some sort of rubber between the tower and the clamp, but ill figure that out later. Wrapped the back, and put on some bondo with the kitty hairs. Still need to add more bondo and sand everything but just thought Id throw some pictures up while I had a free second. Would love some thoughts on the rubber on clamp issue, and some ideas for the sub boxes as to what I should port them off and how many cubes I should give each sub for this open air type set up with it being a boat. Thanks!
  2. Yeah, I'll be putting the other 2 speakers somewhere when I finish the rest of the project. I guess it will probably be the "finishing touch" when I finally finish this thing. The boat has yet to have the amps wired into it, and I'm really thinking hard about how to organize the back end of this thing. For this being a mid engine boat, I want as much weight in the rear, so I want to keep the batteries in the rear. That means Ill have to have two separate sub boxes with the batteries in between them, but somehow covered up because its underneath the rear seat. As for the wireless remote, I cant believe I never thought of that.. Would you mind posting a link to a specific one that you have experience with?? Thank you!!
  3. So the lake that Im on 99% of the time is a bunch of rich people who will get very mad at some 23 year old "kid" driving around all the time blasting music for wake boarders. I already know in advance that I'm never going to be just blasting music for wakeboarders, but more playing casual music at the sand bar while we all drink lol. I had 8 of these 4" 2 ways from another project, so I thought id save some money and just use them! They sound great for what I'll be using them for, but do lack that mid bass like you described. Ideally, Id love to have some 6.5" or 8" drivers but then I also run into the problem of people hitting their head on the speaker rack on the wakeboard tower. So all in all, the smaller, less space consuming, cheaper, 4" is what I decided on.
  4. Hello everyone! So heres a quick story on me. I loved this sight when I was 16-18 years old and was on it every single night checking out different builds, and topics just trying to gain as much information as I could. Long story short I went off to college down the road, started studying Mechanical Engineering and running track at the division 1 level and ran out of time for my own builds, and anything fun for that matter. So enough about me, lets get into this build after my hiatus from the sight. My Project is my 1986 SUPRA boat with a ford 351 v8 (just rebuilt the whole motor and is brand spanking new for this year), Thru-Hull exhaust, wakeboard tower, and much more. What I've purchased so far: -4 SKAR 8" IX-8s. I went with a cheap 8" subwoofer that I can replace very cheaply if something were to happen. My overall goal for this boat isn't for it to be "loud" it is for it to sound very very good. -6 JVC 4" 2-way speakers for the wakeboard tower rack. -1 Hifonics 1250d -1 Crunch 1000 watt rms 4-channel Enclosures: (Here is the fun part) -So like I said, Im finishing school in Mechanical Engineering so I wanted to have a little bit of fun with these enclosures. For the Wakeboard tower, I designed something in SolidWorks and sent cut it out on a CNC Router. Everything turned out GREAT with how everything fit together, and the MDF just looks so clean (even though thats the only wood I could use anyways). Then I will be wrapping and fiberglassing the tower rack in its entirety. Please don't judge, for this is my first real experience with fiberglassing and did it as simple and cheap as possible, its also still in progress. -For the subwoofers, I'm still in the process of deciding exactly what is to be done there and might even re-do the mounts for all the rear seats of the boat because in my opinion there is a ton of wasted space that isn't necessary, so any input (if allowed) on that is appreciated. -Ideas, ported enclosures at around 40hz. My last boat I did 2-12s down firing ported at 38 and it sounded GREAT! Only problem here is they wont be down firing... Ill attach some pictures, and ENJOY! Any input is appreciated on things to help me, so please give feedback if allowed. Im not very good with the rules of whats allowed and what isn't. Thanks! This is the one area where Im going to put 2 of the 8's up front, and in the rear Im going to have 2 more 8's each in individual boxes, ported. Andddddd of course I had to give her a name!
  5. Steve, what would you recommend I tune the port for this 4th order just to be able to get as much range as we can while outside? Would a mid 40s be alright? And do you think the lows taken care of by the sealed will be noticed at all when outside? Thanks.
  6. Okay so here are a couple more pictures of the speaker pods, as you can see, the rubber clear coat looks like it kind of 'cracked' while drying. Not very happy with the look so hopefully if I spray another coat on it can help cover this. Let me know if you see any easy fixes. Again, this is not made to the absolute best of my ability because it is just something kind of rough. Used spare bondo we had laying around so didnt use as much as needed thats another reason why it looks so rough.
  7. I will make sure to get on that as soon as spring rolls around! Right now in Wisconsin everything is an icy mess. I will post some more pics of equipment here when I get to work on this for your entertainment. Will I get in trouble with this still being in the subwoofer/enclosure thread?
  8. That was going to be my next question to you guys, but here is my thoughts... For the speaker boxes mounted on the top of the roll cage: I fiberglassed both of these enclosures, then sprayed them with a "clear flex seal" that is supposed to protect from water damage. Then I sprayed over with 5 coats of gloss black, followed by another 2 coats of clear flex seal. I don't think the box will take on any damage (lets hope). For the speakers themselves, I am going to try to stay out of the bad weather as much as possible. But for when I do some serious mudding or something like that, I am going to just take these off from the roll cage. With how the roll cage is made, I will be able to make something that is very easily detachable. I also have 2 speakers wired together coming to bolt terminals on each side that will have covers on them from the elements as well. So taking these off wont be more than just a few minutes. When those are disconnected, I have some old MTX 6x9s mounted under the rear seats, and under driver seat as well as passenger seat. 4 6x9s in total. They're just wired to the head unit so they can play when the other speakers are disconnected. These are something I do not care if they get dirty or whatever because they can EASILY be replaced if need be. For the "trunk": Everything will be made, then covered in a box that I will make covered in a more "nice" bedliner. This will house all the Amps, Battery, fuses, and Subs. I dont think this part of the build will be too tricky because if you follow the theme for the majority of this build. I don't have certain space requirements, or anything. So I will simply get everything where I want it, and created a box around it. Thanks again guys, any help is very helpful for me.
  9. Thanks for the reply Steve, I had something of that nature in mind after watching your build for the orange RZR. What I'm thinking is to do is to aim the ports towards the front through the middle seat in the back because I will RARELY have every seat filled in this thing due to the roll cage taking up so much leg room in the back. And I will still make something that can cover the ports for when I hose this down. I also thing a bedliner is the obvious choice for cover on all the enclosures and such. Thanks again, any input is appreciated!
  10. Alright, I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 inline 6 I recently bought off craigslist that im re doing just for a "fun" vehicle. Im recently doing a stereo build on this thing that pretty basic, but my question is, what kind of enclosure should I build that will be loud, or heard from an outside standpoint? Equipment: - Aftermarket Head Unit - 132 amp Alternator - Big 3 upgrade - 8 JL audio 4" 2 way speakers - Dual 4 Channel amp for the 2 ways (one I found in my attic) - HiFonics Brutus BX1205D amp - 2-12" Alpine Type R (again found in my attic) In a prefab enclosure - Extra Battery in the back, all 4ga Power Wire Everything is pretty much "thrown together" and was found the cheapest way possible. I am pretty good with subwoofer enclosures when it comes to making them, so I dont think there will something that will be too difficult. My goal isn't to get these the loudest I can, but more to make them sound good and be HEARD outside. Does anyone have any experience when it comes to this? Like something from a ranger or any other UTV? Any help is appreciated!! Thanks!
  11. Haha who cares about the looks.. I love the set up tho man! Looks great!!
  12. Yeah ive seen a couple of your vids on youtube when researching IB set ups! I really dont know what brand to go with... stuck between the Dayton, FI IB3, anf tantric LD.. I think im just going to do some research on each brand and see which one i think id personally like more. I love your set up tho!! I wish my ride could fit even 1 18.. but i only have 17" tall... Thanks for the input man!
  13. Have you heard them in person? And do you know pricing on them?
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