aznboi3644

to each his own...to the OP. Good luck with the design and build.

I've been building for the past 5 years...I know what I'm talking about.

yeah saying your gain was 1/4 means nothing...the output depends on the strength of the input signal.

saying don't worry about the power application is retarded. a 12" inch sub on 200 watts will need a fraction of the port area a 12" sub powered by 1000 watts needs. Any GOOD box builder accounts for this also. I'm trying to help people. It's the details that matter...saying applied power is irrelevant is very noobish.

I would say that is not enough port area. I used to run a single 15 with 800 watts in 4.3 cubes with 112.5 sq inches of port area.

I understand how to calculate port volume. I'm saying that port area should also be calculated with applied power also not just net volume.

port volume is more affected by tuning and port area than just box volume alone.

WinISD does not account for anything...the volume is net and the port volume does not affect the net volume.

I would use atleast 3/4" material and not 0" thick material

here's a little something different I designed for a customer. Its a t-line but with a port at the end of the line...takes on some voight pipe principles.

If you want to model sealed, ported, bandpass, tapped horn, front loading horn, dual reflex horn, transmission lines, ANY FLARE for any horn or port you want. Hornresp can do it all. No other program that I know of can model flares for the ports or horns besides akabak and I've tried that but fuck that...its like C# programming all over again. I don't see why more people use Hornresp...seems like only HT people use it. Only thing is that it is retarded to figure out...I've been trying for about year and just got the hang of modeling tapped horns.

I see only 3 maybe 4 variations...I'd say they sound like crap unless tested. I'm sure people have experimented with these types of ideas...but the more intricate the design the harder it is to sound the way you want.

I don't let any program tell me what to build.

Yeah I used to shake the shit in the kitchen cabinets when I would pull into my driveway. I had no idea until my sister told me I was shaking shit.

I wouldn't go with 3 cu ft...maybe if you were powering it with 500 watts or so. But I'd stick between 1.75-2.25 cu ft.

phase shift is NOT 180* from the port being rear firing.

I have an motor and basket assembly of an Alpine Type X 12" sub. I'm sure PAP has parts that will work with the motor. Hell they have parts I'm buying to recone my 19Ov.2 motor to a 10" sub. I haven't gotten a hold of a digi to check the gap size but I eyeballed it with a tape measure and it looks to be about 3/8" gap. The ID of the gap is right at 3". The spider is ~8" diameter. I'll get pics up as soon as I can get a decent camera. The motor has a copper sleeve at the top of the pole. 60 plus shipping

check for leaks in the enclosure. Also that port is retarded...whoever gave you that design sucks.

2.5 cu ft is perfect for each driver...but just watch the power. 300 watts is plenty to get them moving even enough to bottom them out.

I used to have 112.5 sq inch of port for 4.3 cu ft for a single 15. Thats over 26 sq in per cube. Played lows just fine even with 40Hz tuning. Bigger port means more power handling around tuning.

Excursion has little to do with maximum port velocity. A sub with 1" of excursion could generate more port air velocity than your sub with "4 inches p-p" excursion

take that audiocontrol out of the system

port length number means NOTHING without knowing the port area.

still a ported enclosure

No...it is simply a number that tells you the resonant frequency of the speaker...everything has a Fs. Peak frequency depends on enclosure and loading environment.