Jump to content

RAM5493

Members
  • Posts

    163
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RAM5493

  1. I looked up the specs for the Subs and it recommends 1.75 for one so i figured withe the displacement of each being .14 so it should be 3.5 cubs net and 3.5 +.28 should be around 3.8 plus or minus for the 2 braces I plan on inserting. Would this not be good? or should it be smaller?? Okay the tuning I was honestly ball parking it. So I should tune higher??? my friend listens to similar music to me which is alit of rap and hip hop? so 35Hz around there??? Thanks guys any suggestions are welcome, I'm learning a lot here.
  2. Hey guys I'm trying to help a buddy out by building him a box. When I was young my father used to work building cabinets for kitchens and installing them and what not so he has all the tools and I learned quite a bit from helping. I just need help designing the box. So I know there is a lot that goes into designing a box and from my basic knowledge all I can do is a basic L port box using the RE audio box calculator. If someone would be kind enough I would like to know how to build a box with the woofers facing up and the port back because my buddy has an SUV. Thanks guys any info is appreciated. PS I'm not a fan of JL and I tried to talk my buddy out but he's a huge fan boy.
  3. Hmm here an idea, you can calculate it (fluid dynamics). just kidding that's alot of work I have tried it ..lol..., easier to build a proper box. lol... Oh God I hated a fluid dynamics...Ive never in my life had to work so hard for a damn C+... Lol
  4. Completely agree, a few years ago my bro bought an amp of theirs and it wasn't that good, always over heated and went on thermal, also it was a 2 channel and he blew a channel twice, he fixed it the first time and then just sold it for like 50 bucks. I would suggest on a budget just be careful because they are not that reliable from what my brother says and what I've read.
  5. can I also get a price on the 1.2k and the 2k Thank you
  6. Hey man Xs power has a better battery for you up front the D5100R fits perfectly in that tray and should work well with your system and also Im not sure if you've upgraded your motor to a b series but mechman makes a 270 amp alternator for b series Honda engines.
  7. Can i get a price on a 3.5K. and a 175.4. Thank You
  8. Hey man Ive just started to look into the Sundowns and they seem pretty damn amazing. I'm doing a bit of HW and reading up on them and seeing how people feel about them. They seem to do well but Ive read that in the sundown line that the Z series would work a lot better for my goals. This really sucks, there are so many to chose from and I have no clue which way to shift.
  9. Thank You man, I'm just like you just looking to learn as much as I can and i never even heard of that TC sound sub. Are the other one as good as that model? I can't fit an 18 and I checked and that model only comes in a 18. Thanks a lot man your just making me better informed. I understand what you mean with the spl subs but what i meant was that I read that a lot of subs like the SP4 get really loud and hit the lows real nice but that in the higher frequencies they sound crappy. Is that because of the boxes they are in or because its the woofer itself? If its the box I'm pretty sure PWK can design something that would respond better. Im just looking for a really well rounded sub that can get really loud. Not looking for pure SQ or pure SPL just somewhere in-between. Thank you for your input.
  10. It might make that much power but unless it can do it at 0.5 or 1.33ohm then you are in trouble there most only like to go down to 2 ohm And if you after any sq I wouldn't run below 2 ohm, idd run 2 off that amp up front and put the third else were or in rear and run of another amp, you'll be better off that way I understand that, I will be running the 4 back speakers in the rear channels so they will be at 2 ohms and the front ones alone so they will be at 4 ohms
  11. So the BTL N2 would have better SQ then the n3 I presume and I will be getting the alternator from quick start, their H/O have dual rectifiers and i read good reviews for them so I decided to go with them. Yeah the amp puts out 250w per channel so I have plenty of power to spare for them. I read that the SMD and the SP4 are both SPL subwoofers also, have you heard them play music? if so how is the SQ? and as far as the RF2500 I love their amps and they are efficient, as an engineer efficiency means a lot to me. Also I want to run the sub at 2ohms for tighter bass and the RF2500 produces almost the same power at 2ohms which is pretty awesome.
  12. Hello there people I just got my first car and I'm looking to buy a sub for it. I am pretty knowledgeble with car audio and already bought 0 awg to do the Big 3 upgrade to begin, I will be ordering my H/O alt and already have an XS power batt up front... Once my electrical is completely ready and I run all of the wires I will install an t2500-1bdcp. I am planning on running 3 pairs of Rockford t2 components with a t1000-4ad. My question is which sub should I buy for the set up. Im pretty much set on buying 1 15 that can take the power and I want to build the box myself, I plan on getting PWK to design it for me. I have been looking into the Fi audio BTL N3 which can definitely handle the power but my concern is the SQ. I love loud music but I also want it to be clear. I drive a lot and spend a lot of time bumping the music and I don't want it to be plain loud. Any input is welcome. PS. I'm open to suggestions on other subs not trying to make an VS thread or anything but just want input on which sub would be best for my goal. Thank You,
×
×
  • Create New...