Daniel Shepard

Anyone?

Anyone on here have any information on a eclipse 88150dvc aluminum cone 15" subwoofer? Google did not return the results Im interested in. Im wanting to build a decent enclosure for one, I would love to go ported but cant even find specs on what people are having luck with. Any help is appriciated!

I know I have seen some around here that say 1500 watts on them but they are like 10"x10" with one 35 amp fuse. I would be leary of them, at least the newer ones

if you use a 2" screw and glue, you now have 2" more of wood to break then if you just went with the glue joint. My way of thinkning is to over build rather then under build. Sure, Wood glue is stronger then the wood but as stated above, only right above and below the joint. Plus I dont like to drag all the clamps out and clamp everything, wait a day and come back to finish it. I have done this test. two boards, 24"x 8" glued in a angle. One with screws and glue, one with just glue. After jumping on them sure they broke, but the one with screws broke 2" past the joint, the one with just glue broke 1/4" past joint

i have a 02 civic. I could easly fit a 15 facing rear or forward, BUUUTTT keep in mind that the trunk opening is a whole heck of alot smaller then the area. Just cause the box will fit once in, doesnt mean that you can get it in!

I had two q power 15s, put them in 8cubes at 32hrz, kicker 1200.1 and they got damn loud! off brand or not I was very surprized

Your right, but I have yet to see a home audio enclosure with 3/4" ether. Usually 1/2.

I took a shot in the dark on all of it. I assumed 1 cube net would be enough then I went with the 2 to 1 thing on the ported side. I read to tune high, I should have gone higher. It was all just a wild hair up my ass! no testing on term lab here, I just wanted output on music. I really wanted a tline box but with a fs of 29 I could not fit it I

Whats everyones deal with partical board? I have built plenty of boxes out of it with Great results. Just because theres better wood out there doesnt mean its horrable to use. honestly, I prefer being able to stick screws in and go rather then sit there and pre drill, even with that you still get blow outs. I have done alot of cabinet work and I dont see much difference between the two. Yeah, you can throw specs and density at me but every home audio cabinet I have ever seen is partical board so obviously its not the end of the world for someone to use it. Its a hell of alot easyer to work with, I have yet to see it not be as strong under pressure, and its cheaper for the "concept" builds. Each to his own, I like the stuff!

It's cheaper when you don't quite know what the outcome will be:) thanks for the comments

Tryed my hand at a 4th order today. It's 1.01ft3 sealed, 2.01 ft3 ported@ 44.8 hrz all after displacement. Yes its partical board. I wanted to experiment before I spent the big bucks. I have never heard a 12 go so low but honestly I'm not impressed with the output on anything past 40. But damn it gets low! It's in a 02 civic coupe

My max dimentions are L=39 W=18 H=16 which with 3/4" wood that grosses 5.2 before port, woofer, and bracing displacement. I would assume this is enough to build ether a 4th order or a tline correct? After reading the tline sticky Im sold on how they can sound and what they can do with single speakers. I would love to expand my horizons and build a tline but even after reading the tutorial I would rather have a expert design one for me!

^^ And if I would benifit from a tline can someone design me one? From what I have read they are very efficient. Could I just wire my sub at 8 ohm to make up for this on my 1000xd? Sorry for the 100 questions Im just very facinated by expanding from simple ported boxes

hey man thanks for that design. Should I steer away from 4th orders or a flair type port and just go ported like this? Those sizes would easly fit

Are 4th orders anything that could help this sub? I have never built one or designed one, but I hear they can be pretty powerfull

Well maybe ill stick with whats safe. Im going to scrap the 18 after doing some thinking. I dont want my truck to come apart with that thing in there. Thanks for the input guys, Seems like a sweet Idea as long I have the subs to use that air space. I would rather not butcher my car to the point of no return back there. Thanks again all!

From what I have been hearing that can be a big risk. Sometimes its louder, sometimes its not. I do know sub back, port back has sounded best in this car so I think Im going to stick with this design. I have seen some people running flair style ports and t lines. Just wanting to get the most out of this single driver. I have just built basic ported boxes, I have never ventured into further increasing output till now.

Well Im scrapping my 18 infinite baffle Idea and Im just going to run my type r 12. What would be the best enclosure design to make this little 12 shine? I have ported these around 34hz and 2-3 cubes in the bast with decent results but surely one of you guys has desgined the ultimate enclosure for output. Ill be running a mtx 1000xd @2 ohms. Not looking for spl, more just loud to the ear on lower bass. Its going in a 02 civic trunk. Any thoughts or designs on a good enclosure?

the lead from the coil was round wire. I could not see the vc, there was a metal sleave over it. Im going to say its a regular level 4

I would deff do my best to seal that trunk off to the front. If I do this I will also make a false floor out of 3/4 mdf to not only look better then the cardboard honda floor but also to give some density to the floor and seal in my spair tire well. hopfully someone on here has had some experience doing this combination. My biggest issue is going to be tuning a port for my trunk.

I know when I got it the negative lead of one of the coils was burnt right at the cone so I removed the dustcap and re soldered the wire. Anything I could of seen while I was in there to confirm this?

The impedence of a woofer is more of a ballpark, if you look at the sony's t/s it is probably 3.5ish DC resistance. Ok, well good deal then. thanks for posting up that little heads up. I about just scrapped a level 4! Im going to upgrade multi meters just to be a bit safer. In all my years of ohms I have never thought of this. You guys are amazing, thanks!

I have some beat up sony subs laying around, single 4. my meter reads 4.8? Thats not a full 1.5 off??

Seriously?? I guess I never thought of that. So it should read 0 when touched together? Its just a cheap harbor freight mm but has never given me fits. its set on 200 in the ohm setting of the meter.

When I touch them together it reads 1.5??