79Bronco

6420

Optical > RCA all day long. What source unit is feeding that signal to the 360?

Shut up and take my money! No seriously, when, where, and how much?

Here is one of the amps I'm using. http://www.amazon.com/REF4-920-Soundstream-Reference-Series-Amplifier/dp/B002BS3PNS All of soundstreams reference line has the option to use a balanced input like the one found on this amp. After researching more about this input, it's basically a 6 conductor system that uses a plug that is very similar to the old-school computer mouse style plugs. It is the same input found on some sybilink amps, and it is the same cable as the zapco symbilink. Soundstream sells a balanced line transmitter that converts the rca to a balanced output that can be seen here:

bump?

So as I understand it, an RCA is a two-conductor system. One conductor carries the signal and one does not (the shield). The shield does not pick up much any electrical interference since it's kept at 0v; however, the positive conductor (the center pin on the RCA) does pick up electrical noise which is added to the signal already being carried from one electrical source to the other. The signal is interpreted by measuring the difference in potential energy between the shield and the center pin. This includes both the signal and unwanted noise. By introducing a third conductor, the electrical interference will still exist; however, it will exist on both the signal conductor and the (-) negative conductor. Since the negative conductor does not carry any signal, the system can "subtract out" the electrical noise that it detects on both the center (+) and negative (-) conductor.

I know this probably belongs in the wiring forum, but I want to get Tony's opinion on this. I recently purchased an amplifier with a balanced input port. Obviously in any quality build, the goal is to get the cleanest input signal to the amplifier. The problem is, my head unit does not have a balanced output, only unbalanced RCA's. Would it be worth it to get some RCA to XLR adapters and plug them in directly behind the RCA port. I've seen people do something similar with line drivers, but is there any real benefit in converting a 2 conductor signal up to a 3 conductor signal? Here is my rationale and background: I work in the underwater, offshore electronics industry so I have a pretty good idea about cables and connections. A lot of our customers want cables with twisted shielded pairs to eliminate electronic noise. I have even had customers request that we install a diode in between the conductor and the connector. Regardless, I recognize that the benefit of a balanced connection is to reduce electrical noise, but what else can be done here? In short (too late I know) what can I do to improve this signal, will a line out driver that will convert the rca to balanced even be worth it? Why? or why not?

The amp dyno lives! Look at these two lookin all classy and trying to pretend like their job isn't all fun and games

Damnit Steve, your pumpkin system puts my front stage to shame. Great work, as always

Bass is a beautiful thing. Great vid.

Can we purchase just mids? Don't need tweeters or crossovers...

no, that's not the math dammit. for 1 ohm 1 / 4 = .25. .25 / 4 = .0625. so 1 / .25 / .0625 for 2 ohm 2 /4 = .5. .5 / 5 = .125. so 2 / .5 / .125 y u no learn math good?! I think this thread has established that we don't need math to wire subwoofers. OBVIOUSLY, The best bet is to just go for the lowest possible impedence with blatent disregard for any sort of logic, especially math! Everyone knows that running .25 or .125 on stock electrical just shows how big your cojones are and how little of a fuck you actually give!

Wiring at 1 ohm is for poosies. Wire at .25 or .125 for 4x or even 8x the powa draw. SO MUCH POWA!

96 Expy, you've either got the 5.4 or the 4.6 (96 was the last year for the 4.6 in the expy) Concerning O2 sensors, there are multiple O2 sensors in this vehicle. There should be at least 1 for each exhaust bank, but most likely there are 4 sensors in total. You can crawl up under your truck and look to see how many. Find out which ones were replaced and why. Also make sure that they replaced them correctly. While you're under there, check for any exhaust leaks that may be present. Start with the Induction system. Pop the hood, check (listen) for any vacuum leaks coming from the engine. Go ahead and run through the list that ^ was nice enough to post. I'm guessing this isnt an electrical or EGR system problem since you say the problem is intermittent. This leads me to believe that you may need to have your fuel injectors or your injector rail replaced. Before you go and get that done, start with the small, simple stuff. Good luck!