sully

caps are great to smooth out your power but do nothing for you if you don't have the electrical to back it up. Don't tell a noob that they are the worst thing you can do to a car because if they are used properly they are fine, just don't think they are going to fix a voltage problem cause they won't.

relocate the shock, just get some upper and lower shock mounts and weld them on. the airlift helper bags are the way to go to fix this problem.

it's all good if they are the ones into it, police have interests and hobbies just like us and you found two that like car audio.

not trying to be a dick but the video said "error occurred please try again later." lol just kidding with the first part but the vid doesn't play right now

I'll get one now if I can order a dual alt VCM that will work with one alt until I upgrade to duals in a couple months. Just let me know if this is possible (2003 Tahoe 5.3l)

I would personally rather have 30 more amps at idle than 40 at high rpm, that's just my opinion

Compare the idle output more than the max output, you will be surprised how much time you spend at lower RPM's

forgot about the hump in the transmission pan needed to get cut off and plated, it will save you a couple inches when you raise the engine up and should keep you from having to tub the floor and the cowl for the engine and transmission.

bag it yourself is cool, very few people can body drop a truck on their own the first time. Too much to handle, even most shops can't get a body drop right so it should go to a specialty shop. Also on that truck if I remember right they had trouble with the AC blower motor kinda like they did on mine. The blower box needed to be notched and a new side was fabricated out of metal and then reassembled. No big deal for an experienced installer but a first timer could have trouble with it. The upper control arms are relocated and all new steering linkage is hand built, custom tubular control arms are built, the firewall and inner fenders are relocated and new ones are fabricated then all the electronics and misc stuff under the hood are relocated. The battery can go between the frame rails behind the front bumper or you can put it under the bed. I don't remember if they had to section the oil pan to shorten it for clearance. Nobody can do everything needed to do it right for 4k and make enough money to keep the shop in business. Fabrication alone you will have a full time employee working a solid month or multiple employees a couple weeks to do everything. Call around to see what some of the major shops will charge for this job, I would guess you will get quotes from 10-15k start to finish for a bag and body drop.

and bring on the 2 link haters, people that aren't in the know immediately trash 2 links even though there is nothing wrong with running one. Even some stock heavy duty trucks come with 2 links so there is no reason we can't run them on bagged trucks too.

that truck is why my truck is still not done LOL, Ekstensive built it right before mine. That is a body drop with a 2 link/pan hard bar. Your looking at 12-13k if you have that done right by the same people that built that one. With a body drop you want a 2 link so you will not have the option to do side to side. Makes it ridgid and you won't have any flex or body roll. You can replace the pan hard bar with a watts link they do the same thing, except the watts link allows for zero left right motion of the rear end where the pan hard bar will have a slight left right motion durring travel. As for the cantilever setup you can go with that or just put the bags on the link bars, both are done for extra lift and better ride quality. If you want more info on that truck and what it will take to lay out like that call Mitch at Ekstensive 281 442 1050

cant wait for this one!

helper springs will just level out the truck if it has a load in it, not what you want.

fail for no pics :mad:

if you can weld I would just buy the components and do it up yourself. Check with suicide doors or ekstensive, they sell a lot of vehicle specific kits that takes all the measuring out of it but you will still need to do some of the fab work yourself. Check out the new Viair 444's, they are the new compressors that viair put out and they are cheaper than the 480c's and pretty much just as good.

with that power I would go with the 12's and have the extra cone area, it will be louder.

the slides don't have a lip on them so IMO they are a NOGO. Gotta have a deep lip on a truck

mine sucks too

Go get a fuel cell that will mount behind the axle between the frame rails. The factory pump and sending unit will be installed into the top. Just get a hole saw and cut the proper size hole and seal it when you bolt it down. That is what I did on my F-150 before I had a custom cell built. I've seen people with the factory tank bungy corded into the bed but that can't be safe and looks like crap.

that is going to be sweet

that is going to be sweet

you will need to fab up your own mounting brackets. No biggie if you can cut/bend/weld metal.

Yes, AIRBAGIT is the worst place to buy anything from. I have personally seen their link bars fail and cause major damage to a vehicle. Their products are cheaply made from inferior material and should not be trusted. Three of the four cylinders I ordered from there years back broke. Not an o-ring failure, the shaft broke in half. Air Ride Tech makes a great products, I trust them completely. Also you will be fine with one compressor for the way you are using the setup. I have 4 compressors but because of lack of room I have very little storage (custom tanks with around 3-4 gallons of air) so it needs to replenish faster. Not to mention I need to get 8-10 inches of lift just to turn where you will pretty much leave it at a preset height most of the time.

If it was me I would charge you about tree-fifty and a black eye for my troubles.