AP Zoutes

You can see what I'm running here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/in...php?topic=180.0 Ray, how does that not make sense?

btw I stole that from here http://www.installer.com/tech/ AS you can see the question you pose has lots of varibles. my suggestion is get the highest quality you can afford. If you can only afford one good 12" now then do that and add more later. For example if I can only spend $200 on subs I would get the best one I could not 2/3/4 low quality ones. Simply put don't go with the p1 IMHO they are as bad as it gets. If you want RF try to step up to p3 or T1 or at least the P2

So many times we still hear that doubling the power gets us 3dB and doubling the cone area gets us another 3dB. It is a MYTH. It is untrue! Electrons flow through our wires to our speakers. The electrons are changed to electromagnetic energy. The electromagnetic energy works with permanent magnet energy to make a speaker cone move. The movement vibrates air and we have sound.. Doubling the power into the speaker motor may get us 3dB more sound to our ears, but again it may not! Just like dumping twice the gasoline and twice the oxygen into our cars motor may not make us go twice as fast. It may not, because there are so many variables between the point of the energy being electrons and the energy making it to our ears. There are several variables that may not always have the same value and thus it is impossible to guarantee that a 3dB increase will occur. For instance a loudspeaker motor is not entirely linear, that means if we double the power to it then it may give us 3dB or it may give us less than 3dB depending on things like is the voice coil in the gap at the most efficient spot? Or is the speaker suspension restricting the speaker movement when you add this extra power (it always does!)..? Or does the acoustic suspension of our box restrict the cone movement (it always does!)..? Along this path from electrons to sound, there is also a lot of our energy that is turned to heat and the heat does not translate to more sound, so there is some loss, quite a bit as a matter of fact.. So, to say doubling the power will always get you 3dB is just a guess at best! Defiantly not a law of physics! Definitely not always true. But unfortunately, a lot of folks seem to spread this MYTH as if it were fact. Now, Cone area! Cone area is another MYTH, although like power it is very important, it is still just one variable out of many that have to do with getting sound to our ears. Many say doubling your cone area will get you 3dB. This is UNTRUE as well. It is true that the cone vibrates the air to make sound, and if we had double the cone area ALSO vibrating the air making the same sound then we might have 3dB more sound! But we did more here than to simply change cone area! We added cone area that was already playing the same sound! So that means that in addition to cone area we ALSO added a motor and the power to drive that motor so it would move the cone the same amount as the first cone! We cant easily just ADD CONE AREA! And if we did by just gluing more cone area to an existing cone then we would have a problem in that the cone area would add mass, thus needing more power to move the extra weight! So it cant be JUST cone area! PLUS! We can play a 15 inch speaker at 100dB and then play a 10inch speaker at 100dB and we will achieve 3dB more and we can see we DID NOT double the cone area! Or we can use a 15 inch speaker and have a fat lady sing the same song at the same amplitude and we would still get a 3dB increase, and we have to ask, where is her cone area? And/or where is her power and it is double that used by the 15? Almost certainly not! So you see, the POWER MYTH and the CONE AREA MYTH although based in facts are often misused in the car audio world and are easily proven to be untrue.. But don’t loose all hope! there is some truth! The truth to the physics of sound is actually much simpler! 1. Adding one sound to another sound of the same amplitude (volume) will gain you 3dB. 2. Adding one sound to another sound of the same amplitude and correlated will gain you 6dB. (correlated means exactly the same phase, and likely to occur with the long wavelength of bass notes in our cars)… How can things be simpler than that? Blame these things on the laws of physics of how two or more sounds work together, not on cone area or power alone.

^^^That thing retails for $2000! :-X

GOT TRUNK?

Diamond Audio all the way = Fronts Hex series 6 1/2 components $250 / Rear D6 series coaxials $120

^^^^ :D :D

woops :D :-[ still a 20% loss right??

If i'm corrext you had a 86-91 mustang gt?? The rwhp is only about 200 so you made a huge gain!! I had a '89 convertible gt that's the only reason I know the #. There is about a 20% loss of power in the drivetrains so your 330 was about 400 @ the crank!!

yeah, I doubt it. For that type of gain w/o opening the engine you would need a supercharger or turbo. But I did see a site that claims 100 hp / 100 lbs tourqe with just that. here > http://www.rpmoutlet.com/ramhemi.htm

Looks awesome. Great work Steve.

deduction; the process of resoning in which a conclusion follows from the stated premise. Or a way to seem smarter :

Actually what I am trying to do is keep the reflections in phase with the output of the subs. What I am planning on doing is based on the findings of this installer; http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html also if you look at this goto part #2. I wanted to know if my thinking was correct. I've done the trunk deadening and yes that helps. But with a sealed wall the waves should be 'in phase'. Also, I over build so it wouldn't just be a piece of mdf. It will be deadened and I will add a plexiglass window for viewing. Just wondering if anyone else is doing this and if they are what were the results. It would be much eseier to just deaden the trunk lid but could I gain db and bass response with a false wall?

I have a deduction and was wondering if someone could back it up or tell me I'm full of it. I'm facing my subs backwards, always have, and found the reason for greater bass when facing subs backwards is that the sub is in closer inphase with itself and basically the closer it is to the rear of the car the 'more' in phase the reflections are. My deduction then is if I don't want to place my subs directly against the trunk lid would I get better bass by building a false wall and facing the subs backwards toward the wall and sealing off the rest of the trunk? Doing this should get the most bass response by getting the reflections in phase as much as possible, correct? The more I learn the dumber I get.

LOOK'S GREAT!!! Really makes me want to try a spl system.

WOW!!! I'm soooooo jealous. :o

Hey I go by AP. Started building systems 15yrs ago. I was able to stay off the car audio for a few years. Then I thought I could handle just adding some cheap bass a couple of months ago and well I can't get enough of my car audio smack, again. Found this forum through the Rockford Forum. I was really impressed by Meade's work, and am glad to see others on here with the same quality. It's inspiring me. Thinking about trying to compete next year. ANyway nice meetin ya

battery + to ALt +, Batt - to chasis, ENgine to Chasis

Meade I agree with ya. Treble will hurt more then bass. I think it has to do with the tweets distorting before anything else and they push the hell out of 'em. I DJ Techno and going to a rock concert always hurts more. BTW awesome work

Hello, I'm new here. I would agree with the nxt from Meguiars. I use that two months ago and all I've had to do is spray of my car at a local car wash and it stays clean. Da dirt don't stick.I will kiss some ass and say the work I've seen on here is great. I'm mostly an SQL guy but may just have to move to SPL this winter. Everything I see here makes me want to try.