P4killer_

yea the tensioner, has a a square hole for a socket to fit it as in the diagram above, pushing down rotates the whole thing as per the diagram should loosen the belt, im asking if the i have to simaltaneously push down and remove the belt or do i push down until the tesioner stops. i was under the assumption that the tensioner will eventually unlock in a loosen position, where as to say that the belt will remain loose without pressure turning it and you are free to loosen the belt and when you're done simply turn it back to tighten the belt?

so this is kinda a double post from my topic a few days old but really its just a quick question and i figured id save ya'll the hassle of reading the other thread. So im trying release the belt tensioner so i can remove my alt, and do the big three. ive got the 1/4'' breaker bar in the tensioner slot, and when i push down, the belt moves, but isnt the tensioner suppossed to like have a on/off position if you will. i push down and down some more and nothing happens, am i posed to remove the belt while pushing down, it seems kinda tight still, i thought you turn the tensioner to off, and the belt slips off if you will heres the scematic from before thanks

well i mean when you buy a h/o alt like you said u had above you buy what you can afford obvi and obvi you could get like anywhere from 200-300a alts going up in price as the amps get higher again obvi but those bats would be fine for 2500w

thanks for all the replies. ill prolly give this a shot mon or tues

yea its a 3.1 v6 yea lol i guess i dont need help in knowing what i need to do, i just am sketchy about actually doing it. i dont want to mess any thing up i dont want to have to try and rerun the entire belt so when i loosen it, do i just set it aside.? idk i guess im looking for someone to be like this is what you do: so i know im doing it right if that makes sense thanks P4killer

honestly i think its iffy i mean if you expect to see 4500w youll need power for that plus the amps efficiency loss.. what h/o alt..? but if your gonna do it anyway just watch your voltage but i dont think you will see 4500w with that electrical well idk as long as its a solid alt you could be ok, just could be better.

I posted on 2carpros.com its an ASE certified forum, and you can donate money to them and your question will be answered quickly by an ASE certified person, and you'll get the correct answer, as opposed to just posting free on their open forum, which might not be right / take longer. you can donate w/e u want, i just put $3 which would be very much worth it to get this job done! we'll see what that turns up.

How many amps is the alt? And yellow tops are ok, but for the money you could do better. IMO if says its a 300a alt, then maybe but not really ... maybe bigger bats would be better buts that just my op

"There is a brief map of how the belt runs on the left strut mount, and have access to Chitlons manual so I could figure out what drive socket etc is needed to release the tensioner." and by breaking something, i meant that i dont think removing ine if the mounting bars while the belt is under tension is a good idea. it could bend the pulley or something if the alt moved.. so in other words i cant unmount the back of the alt without first releaving tension on the belt...

thats what i thought

there is the schematic for the tensioner, but it only says 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Using a drive belt tension wrench, rotate the tensioner. any idea, on what or where to find such items i thought it was just a 1/2 or 3/4 socket wrench?

So, I am so tired of not knowing what to do about this alt. Ive made a post before and nothing came back.. if some of you auto mechanics could lend me a hand for a sec Id appreciate it. So in words: The alt is secured to the block w/ 3 black mounting bars The charging post is behind the black shroud on the back of the alt I cant remove the shroud because of the rear mounting bar I dont want to remove the rear bar while the belt is under tension, it might bend, break something So in short, I have to release tension on the belt and basically remove the alt. I can change my oil and stuff but, im no ace and kinda intimidated by this process. I know what needs to be done but would like a helping hand. If any of you know how to remove this shroud, to access the posts on the back of the alt Id appreciate some help. please help I wanna get this done Pics: There is a brief map of how the belt runs on the left strut mount, and have access to Chitlons manual so I could figure out what drive socket etc is needed to release the tensioner. Im just afraid of messing up and having to figure out how to re-run the entire belt please help

look im from cleveland and hope the cavs pull it out tonight... Lebron is amazing, but when you break it down, Kobe and Lebron is a tight one, but regretably I think the black mamba gets the edge Kobe is just as nasty as lebron when it comes to pure scoring, and assists are even in lebron you get rebounds, more physical low post presence in kobe you get better team coordination, balance etc lebron is raw power and talent kobe is the refined product, cold as the other side of the pillow plus clutch play goes to kobe by far.

I didnt see that coming, he puts up a map... nice buying things must be expensive, im assuming your items get shipped to the main land, and ferry in? I cant offer much help, i was commenting on your remote location. kinda cool never heard of seychelles. cool story bro?

Thanks

Looking into doing some things, just thought to put up a WTB just to see if I could pick a few things up a lil cheaper WTB (2) Fuse holders pref ANL Style, 0/1 in and out, not the ones that need Ring terms. That is unless Anyone has a handful of 0/1 terms to sell like 12 or so. KnuKonceptz is like 20 a piece + 10 for 2 fuses, and 20 for 10 terms so obvi id like to come in under that mark thanks guys P4Killer

Yes but even then, running 3k isnt like a no biggie. Im just saying be carful ya know,

Im so sick sick of seeing like 10 thousands camaros like GOD but that R8 V10 Spyder is nasty, a convertible Austin Martin is one thing, but if that Audi still performs like the Coupe , that just goes to shows how well the new "space frame" design works. A convertible supercar takes my vote

LOLz the cap isnt working and you voltage is roughly the same goes to show caps = garb. but its pretty cool dude clean it up (route the wiring from the subs so you cant see em, and clean up the wires at the amp etc)and then youll be sweet sweet though man

The 500.1 is nasty.. make sure youve got plenty of electrical though puts out like 6k+ on 16v iirc buts then again the AQ is the cheapest and your runnning 15's so that would be the safest route. putting 3k+ to those is gonna be risky.. doable but recones will be needed down the road

yea RF is $$$ most of the time, but 139 for a guaranteed rock solid 500w isnt really that bad at all... id snatch that in a second. granted audiopipe is great value.. idk that RF is pretty sweet imo

LMAO idk of course im no expert, i was thinkin about it and like duh' and i go back to the thread and peeps are already flamin' me up like dang i had a blonde moment chill, i just pictured it wrong anyway hes getting a NIB sub anyway people are always in a hurry to shit on others.

First, i have heard of spl brand woofers, and im sure they should be ok. Second, idk if i would trust that geocities / godaddy mom n pop ish site Third, the hd3c will be a def good choice Fourth, if your really looking for a budget 15 go grab a Power Acoustik MOFO 15" 1500w RMS for 150ish iirc they are pretty sweet indeed

the duck tape works. Seen it done heat it up if its stiff. Don't stick a screwdriver up the vent it would be hard to keep it from sticking to the magnet and you might scrape the coils etc. If your going to stick anything up there use a straw and try but not a screwdriver. Duct tape first maybe a straw and if all else fails. Heat it up cut it off, fix it. Go to hobby shop for ca glue to reapply. Done

Jesse purdy I'm not bashing you or anything hell I'm not even saying you're wrong. I read through this thread and thought you were getting carried away. You have some built up issues -- lol obvi but JUST CHILL CHIEF --> hehe , seriously relax