bassINyoFACE

anybody know??? i'd like to find out also....

damn pigs got nutin better to do than try and bust us for havin some pride in our rides, what a bunch of fuckers. i've gotten three tickets already in Vegas and out here it is 75 feet --$90.00 fist offense, then 220.00 then 400.00--- how in da fuck do they know how far away 75 feet is anyways-- fuckin bastards-- OK i'm done venting now.....

Because air bag sensors measure deceleration, vehicle speed and damage are not good indicators of whether an air bag should have deployed. Occasionally, air bags can deploy due to the vehicle's undercarriage violently striking a low object protruding above the roadway surface. Despite the lack of visible front-end damage, high deceleration forces may occur in this type of crash, resulting in the deployment of the air bag. The airbag sensor is a MEMS accelerometer, which is a small integrated circuit chip with integrated micromechanical elements. The microscopic mechanical element moves in response to rapid deceleration, and this motion causes a change in capacitance, which is detected by the electronics on the chip, which then sends a signal to fire the airbag. The most common MEMS accelerometer in use is the ADXL-50 by Analog Devices, but there are other MEMS manufacturers as well. also believe or not air bags reach a DB level of 175db's--- that's insane loud!!!

can't we all just get along......nahhh fuck that, free speech rules!!!!!

good luck and congrats david and zax, that is pretty trippy with your 4D--- it does look like a hand under the chin--crazy..

the most important part of the system is to get the girls drippin wet

Crossover: Active crossover Additional Features: Gain control Response Bandwidth: 10 - 50000 Hz Signal-To-Noise Ratio: 95 dB Continuous Power / Channel Qty: 125 Watts x 2 Amplifier Output: 2-channel High Level Inputs: Yes Input Signal Voltage: 0.2 - 6.5V, 0.8 - 26V Crossover Slope: 12 dB/octave Low Pass Frequencies: 80 Hz Bass Boost Frequency: 50 Hz Bass Boost Gain: 0 to +12dB Output Power / Total: 760 Watt Distortion Factor: 0.015% Amplifier Output Details: 125 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.2% - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s) ¦ 190 Watt - 2 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.8% - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s) ¦ 380 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.8% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s) More Information Model No.: GM-520T Shipping Weight (in pounds): 8.6 Product in Inches (L x W x H): 13.0 x 12.0 x 2.4 not only is this amp NOT 1 ohm stable the total power ratings are even at 14.4 volts and the THD is .8-- not good SQ at all

jeff comes through as usual wit the homie hookup

good luck mang

i have the power 2000 and i'll tell you what this is the most powerful amp i've EVER used in my life, plus it looks bad ass too

steve- we told ya we would hook a brotha up.. Websters Dictionary-- "hook a brotha up" means what ever the you need, we got it all covered, rooms, drinks, food, what ever. just get yo ass on down here so we can do some partying. P.M. me with dates and we'll do the rest.

make dee other bitch scratch her eyes out

^^^ X2 All sirens and cameras are tied together, you'll even notice when you watch COPS that it says "lights on, Sirens on" get a good lawyer and take care of it that way.

500 bucks for one battery... better be good---- or at least come with a blowjob.....

wanna see how those Solo-X subs last when they have only half that wattage put to em...... check out this extreme subwoofer challenge from Orion's website. the Solo-X doesn't hold a candle to nothin'... http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Promos/HCCA_C...ge_Results.aspx

YEAHHHHHH WHHHHAAAATTT OKAAAAAYYYYYY gotta love em both-- day rich we aint so dare..

spitting IMAGE maybe, all else is different. these are AGM batteries which weigh almost half the size of a kinetik HC2400 looks like stevo's HO is gonna lose some weight as well. (i am talking about the the TA_HOE uv course_

OR... if you don't, any switched 12v source will work (12v on when key is turned on, 12v off when key is turned off)

you need to hook up a secondary battery in parallel with your main starter battery. that is positve to positive and negative to negative all the way from the front of your car and the starter battery to the secondary battery in the back. your alternator will keep them both charged. use fuses 12" away form both batts and use good quality wire rated for your amplifier. now power up your amp(s) with the secondary battery. hope this helps. keep reading you'll get the jist of it all.

just think of all the component sets you can put on them there door panels Rusty!!!

I think it's time for a trip to sweet ass LAS VEGAS mang. you'll can come out, drink bump, and partaywith some strippers and some good 'ol fashioned hookers (dime a dozen out here)

and another fucked up part of the UFC and DirecTv is now you gotta pay an extra fuckin 10 dollars to watch this shit in High Definition TV. we already pay enuf fo the crap already. this could also go in the fuck that post. :mad: :mad: :mad:

bump Meade

has anybody ever used the handheld digital DB meters like the ones made by Scoshe Brand or any others? i've never been truly "metered" with a TL and this little piece of shit meter says my truck is only hitting 126.5db. is this possible with all da powerful shiznat i got in da ride? what kind of numbers do any of you really think it should be hittin just curious - look at my system below... tanks yall

2 voltages = 2 alternaters along with battery isolators so the 12v stuff don't "let the smoke out"