ISO

if i remember correctly, its 1 farad per every 1000w. of course more capacity isnt bad. LOL I use 50 farads for a little under 2000 watts Plus a PM XS D2400 (might be a D2700) and a PM XS D925 up front and a 45/90 amp alt LOL

Since I yank my main fuses before installing a cap, what I do is go ahead an install the cap and then I use my charging light bulb in place of my fuse until the cap is charged. Then I remove the charging light bulb and put the fuse back in and done.

Fullmetal Alchemist: Brotherhood is not a sequel to the original Fullmetal Alchemist anime that aired in Cartoon Network's Saturday Adult Swim time slot from 2004-2006. Instead, it is a sort of alternate-universe remake of the first anime that more closely conforms to the way the adventures of the alchemy-wielding teenage Elric brothers have worked out in the still-ongoing manga by Hiromu Arakawa. See I noticed in the first 2 episodes how it was going back over the same story line but it was a different story altogether and I was having a real hard time trying to figure out why everyone that was dead in the first series was all back to life and introducing them selves again like they had never met the 2 brothers.

I really don't know why I didn't try and Google my question. Thanks man! Now I understand what is going on. In short it is a remake of the whole series and very closely follows the Manga version of the story. Captain planetz I think there oughta be a Anime section on here too. I look at us car audio people as something between nerds and cool people and I bet there are alot of us car audio people that are into Anime. From one of the websites. "The newer Fullmetal Alchemist, Brotherhood, is not a sequel to the original Fullmetal Alchemist." Nearly a year after it began airing in Japan (streamed online every week with English subtitles via the FUNimation website mere days later) the dubbed English-language version of Fullmetal Alchemist: Brotherhood finally premiered on Cartoon Network at midnight Eastern Standard Time on Saturday, February 13. In contrast to what American viewers might have expected, Fullmetal Alchemist: Brotherhood is not a sequel to the original Fullmetal Alchemist anime that aired in Cartoon Network's Saturday Adult Swim time slot from 2004-2006. Instead, it is a sort of alternate-universe remake of the first anime that more closely conforms to the way the adventures of the alchemy-wielding teenage Elric brothers have worked out in the still-ongoing manga by Hiromu Arakawa

Alright I'm a big Full Metal Alchemist fan and have seen the original 51 episode series quite a few times and the movie too. Well I have noticed a new series that is out called Full Metal Alchemist Brotherhood. I have it downloaded and have watched 2 episodes so far. What I'm confused about is that it seems like a whole different version of Full Metal Alchemist from start to end almost like the original Full Metal Alchemist didn't exist. Is Full Metal Alchemist Brotherhood a reimagination of the whole series and am I supposed to discard everything I learned in the original Full Metal Alchemist when watching the Brotherhood series? I thought it would be a continuation of the original series but it sure doesn't seem like it. Someone explain PLEASE?

Since no one wants to answer your question I will. Run the + from the battery to the cap and the + from the cap to the amp. Ground the cap with as short of a piece of wire as you can and ground your amp with as short of a piece of wire as you can. Do you know how to charge a cap? You don't want to hook up a cap without charging it first since it can harm you or damage your eye sight if a spark was to get into your eye. You were on the rite track with your paragragh and your buddy is a dumb ass.

If you tell us how much fusing that is on the supposed 4000 watt amp we will tell you how much power it really puts out. (ball park figure) LOL if that amp has 400 amps worth of fusing built in then it could possibly put out 4000 watts but any less than that and we know it can't. Again amps that produce that kind of power DO NOT come with built in fuses.

I'd LOVE to get a pair of the Solo-Classics, but just one is more than I can spend on my entire sub setup. I gotcha man. Keep your hopes up. I got my 4 for $150 a piece on Ebay through an authorized dealer. The only weird thing is that I had to purchase each sub one at a time. Wasn't aloud to buy more than 1 at a time. Keep your hopes up. and no I don't know if that deal is still on there.

My vote is for 2 Kicker Solo-Classic 10s with .5 to .55 cubic feet per 10 inch SC and 1000 watts for the set. I think you will be shocked. But wait I know everyone hates Kicker.

Congrats man!!!!!!!!! I dropped out in the 9th grade and got my GED 3 years later. I do regret dropping out but only because of the whole learning to socialize with people. I find it very hard to meet people and have successful friendships. Skittles I agree, 3 years after dropping out with a 9th grade education I feel the test was just a little too easy.

I am still making these pretty good for SQ as far as THD -- these include a shorting ring and high linear x-max =) Alright. Thanks

Isn't the Z series supposed to sit more on the SQ side for SQL subwoofers? If that is still its goal (thinking about the original Z series) arent' the Fs a little bit on the high side?

LOL I'm in bad need of a custom suspension for a 2000 Saturn Wagon with a couple hundred pounds of shit in the hatch LOL But I'm always BROKE Welcome to the forum. All of us Ohio guys need to stick together.

X 10

I don't know much about the vehicle but you can do a full rewire on the car and if you have to have to factory radio to make the car work, then you can make your own buss cable to mount it out of the way. At the end of the day the price will still be close to the bypass unless you can get all of your new speaker wire and wire for your buss cable for dirt cheap.

With the weight of the sub I would double baffle so the inner baffle would not need to have as big as a hole cut in it as the mounting baffle would have because the the surround offers and angle on it as it reaches excursion and this would give you more meat for your screw holes. First baffle needs the proper size hole and the second baffle needs a smaller hole.

I didn't read most of this so sorry if it was said but here is the deal. The best way to do this is to plan to invert your subs before you build your box. Next cut your baffle board on a set of saw horses before you ever attach it to your box. This way you can set the sub on top of the holes so you can get under the baffle and look up to center the subwoofer and screw it in place. Now you have you alignment perfect. After that you can use your jig saw to trim out any excess wood from the hole in your baffle until you feel comfortable that you are not going to harm the surround but still have enough meat for your screw holes to stay strong. If you have a test tone disc then you can play the sub while its attached to the baffle (While its still on the saw horses) to check and garuntee that your sub is not rubbing the surround. I have another method too. That involves cutting the hole to the normal size and then useing your jig saw or router to put an angle all the way around the mounting hole but this is much harder to do.

its just the way I feel about it and there is nothing wrong with my logic. I guess his system will pull around 75 to 100 amps while playing loud music with alot of bass. At the amps I like the proper size fuse or built in fuse. its funny when things short out. all the things I have come across happen in just fractions of a second. I've seen fuses blow in sections of the overall stereo system that haven't made sense to me but most do. You are rite but I'm rite too. EDIT: When explaining on a public forum I guess it is easyer just to fuse for the combined fusing of your amplifiers.

Finally, read this entire thread waiting to see if anyone would say this or not LOL. When you are fusing for the big 3 yes but for the run going back to the amps I don't. I like just a little head room. At the end of the day the fuse is going to blow when shorted but the quicker it shorts out the better chances of not damaging any thing. (amplifiers)

in short you need bigger power wire.

its actually 2 gauge. You will need to find out what size fuse to use with 2 gauge. Its fairly rare so I don't know what size to use with 2 gauge. 4 gauge takes a 125 to 150 amp and 0 gauge is usually rated for a 300 amp fuse. 2 gauge would be somewhere in the midde of that range.