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Found 10 results

  1. This build will be gradual so bear with me The Sub is a DC lvl3 18 with lvl4 upgrade, powered by a BC2000d @ 1 ohm. I have a 300amp Singer that i got from a member here, as well as an optima 34/78. I also have an XS D1200 en-route. I started by building the port. .375 roundover on all port edges. I should have waited to route the front of the port until the box was complete though. i Had to fill in the corners with bondo and go over them with the router a few times to get them perfect. If i would have thought about it before i started, i could have saved myself a lot of time. A also completely forgot to subtract the volume of the port bracing from the total port area... You live and you learn, right? Working on said port bracing. Used the C-clamp to keep the ends of the smaller pieces of mdf bracing from splitting. I like to drill pilot holes on the small side... Working on said port bracing. Used the C-clamp to keep the ends of the smaller pieces of mdf bracing from splitting. I like to drill pilot holes on the small side...
  2. I am doing my senior project on a custom fiberglass enclosure for some JL Audio subwoofers and I'll have updates as I go so keep tuned!
  3. 04+ Ford F150 custom door panels Extended cab or 4 doors Custom fiberglassed, painted black, milled/routered/polished aluminum, plexi rings with neon. Has 3 JL Audio 6.5" and a 4" XR Series speaker included Used with some signs of wear. Has some chips and scratches Missing 1 of the 6.5 grills. As soon as it is located it will be included. $900 plus shipping
  4. I have 2 subs right now in a sealed box and wanted to know some tips and ideas on how to make a nice clean fiberglass box for the subs. I have a suv so trunk space isn't a big factor here.
  5. Hey, so I'm building myself a new enclosure for spring, so as to accommodate higher power and more displacement. While I do have a lot of enclosure construction experience, I am stumped on this one. I plan to build a new 4th order (B-pillar wall, has to stay in vehicle) with a larger port and more bracing (already eliminated modifying current enclosure). My difficulty is not in the building of the enclosure, but in the finishing. Now, in the past I used to use fiberglass resin on the inside of boxes to reduce box rise and help increase my airflow. I would just crawl in the port, turn on a big ass fan to suck the fumes out, and go to town. Because of recent health occurrences, I am unable to inhale any fumes from resin even through a mask, because my lungs will collapse. Is there some alternative to resin I can use to achieve a similar effect? I'm willing to give up little bit of SPL to live, but not too much haha. And yes, I am aware that crawling into a complete box to resin was dangerous to begin with, but at the time I didn't think anything of it.
  6. Hey everyone!! I am getting ready to do my door panels and I need to get a rough idea of how many quarts of Sunflash to order. For the experienced, approximately how many quarts should do a single door panel? I am doing these on my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee, below the armrest and from the back of the map pocket to the front of the dash line covering the factory speaker grills. I am just putting one component set in each door to cut my teeth. If I can work the materials well enough I may build a second set of door panels holding two sets of components on each door. Thanks everyone!!
  7. Moved original first post down to number 3. Keeping this clean to update. Most current is now around page 17 or so. Current System Details: Electrical: DC Power 270XPXS3400 under the hood, Shuriken BT35 in the trunk2/0 welding cable from to back + and - All other wiring is Knu HU: Pioneer AVH-P5200 flip out No Processor yet, bitone eventually Active Three Way Front Stage: Hertz Mille ML280, ML700 and ML1600 Subs: 2 Hertz HX 250 10" subs. 3cubes tuned to 32 Amps: Audison Lrx 5.1k and a LRx 2.9 for midbass
  8. Well...here is my build for my 06 Pontiac Solstice. Misc Mods: Dual Air Intake Big Bore Throttle Body Hi-Flow Headers Custom Exhaust Lowered Painted Aftermarket Rims Smoked Tails Custom Made Projector Headlights and Foglights (Two-Toned to match car) Custom F430 bumps Custom Side Vents Custom rear Valence Painted Misc Parts on Car to match theme Interior Audio: Alpine DVD Headunit Dual Infinity Kappa 6.5" Components in Custom made Pods (Arc Audio Tweeters and Crossovers) Infinity Kappa 12" Woofer in Custome made Fiberglass Box behind Passenger Seat 4 Channel Arc Audio KS Amp - 90 x 4 Mono block Arc Audio KS Amp - 600 x 1 Amps in a small amp rack in the rear boot area
  9. i would greatly appreciate it if some could tell me the best way to fiberglass my trunk lid to put screens in it, i have a 1994 Volvo 850 so how would i go about doin it, plz help me
  10. Here's a link to my Tahoe pics (Wall Design thanks to Robin Butler!) https://drive.google.com/?usp=web_ww_after_dl#folders/0B58ldAG-KZlVcHhjb2xrN2pRMFU The ISSUE that I'm having is the company that I had build my Wall did NOT "seal it off" properly at all. My Truck is getting a LOT of air movement to the REAR (which shouldn't happen at all...), and as Robin Butler has told me, I'm losing quite a bit of pressure in the front due to this issue. Also I realized they left my entire Roof Panel up on the Tahoe, which I thought was supposed to be removed and put MDF and Spray Foam or something up... I'm at a loss of SOUND QUALITY more or less. Yeah, 4 18's in a 4th is smashing pretty hard, BUT with panels still up that frankly should've been taken out I don't feel that I have a system that is both Clean and Loud. Still rattling when loud. Yes, the entire truck is 2-layers sound deadened with Damplifier Pro and Alpha Damp... ** I'd like to know how I can remove the Headliner off the Roof and fill it in with MDF or whatever and connect it to the wall, as well as Fill in gaps in the Front / Sides / Rear of the Wall so there is absolutely NO air leaks whatsoever. Id like the front of the interior (wall, panels, dash, etc) colored somehow too. Robin mentioned using Vinyl for that. Of course I also realize I need Fiberglassed door panels too. Whatever it takes to get a much more solid sound and clarity while still being loud as heck! - Any Advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys!
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