Robert8252

You can get a pack of 700 small gauge ferrules on eBay or amazon of random sizes that will work. However, unless the speaker wire you’re using is really small it should be able to make a solid connection Andy not just be pulled out.

No, CarPlay will mirror whatever app you use on your phone. If there’s not a car play app it just sits on the home screen. They don’t want you using the phone while using CarPlay.

I have an original DD1 and have only replaced the battery once. Not saying the battery isn’t the issue. Make sure your ground is good, how are you connecting the speaker wire to the DD1? Have you tried switch polarity of the wire to the DD1?

Sorry just saw this! But you know. Here, there, everywhere. Working non stop and starting to throw money into this stuff again. I’ll pm you my psn name when I log in and double check. I wouldn’t set the gain with anything less than the -5 personally. I usually use the 0db tone for mids and highs.

Should never mix different speakers on an amp channel. Two 3 ohm loads in parallel would be around 1.5 ohm.

Haven’t read through everything. If on a budget or don’t need more than a 55” the TCL 55P605 or 607 are a steal at $599. Bought my dad one for Christmas and made myself a little jealous. My ST Panasonic just doesn’t have anything wrong with it.

Coming from a 2013 but I beleive the back seat is similar. Without a seat lift this was the best I could do. Single 8 with around 1.25 cubes, took some extra work but angles the top of the box to match the seat to get every sq inch I could. 8 barely fit and still had to stick out for the magnet to clear the inside of the box.

Deaden and seal every hole in your doors. Edit: thought you ment the comps. I actually loved the 6.5 coax. I ran the JL C5 series for a while and I’d take the hertz all day. Great mid bass, tweeter was good but needed to tune down the EQ on it. Make sure to get legit speaker. Knock offs due exist on eBay. They won’t need more than 100-150 watts to sound great.

those comps should make plenty of noise with that amp set with a dd1. Make sure your positive and negative aren’t backwards on one of the speakers.

See you finally got the crew cab. It took me about a year to get the bug to put audio in my truck new. Just started getting the bug again though from what I last had.

Whatever sub fits your needs and budget is what you should go with. You're joking yourself if you think you're going to play sub 30 hertz on that power in a sealed box with any authority. No normal music will do much there any ways. I also believe the sundown wants a ported box but don't quote me on that because I haven't looked in a year or so.

Most people would recommend fitting a regular smaller sub than shallow mount. Not going to get in that argument. I run the 10" version of the TW3 with 5-600 watts on it. Sealed in a .6 cube box and it sounds great. I think the 12" goes for around $350 but sometimes you can find them for $300 on crutchfield. Could also try a local dealer. I would definitely buy the sub again if I needed to in the future.

Ported facing the rear. Build a box close to specs recommended by Hertz. Ran a pair of 10s off a 5.1k years ago and loved how those subs performed. I would add 15ish% more box space then they recommend and around 16 inches of port per cube. Wish I could remember what I used for my 10s which would need less but think I'm close to what you would want.

Awesome "cheap" amps. I ran the SR2 for a while, now it doesn't compare say to the LRx 2.9 but not much does. Still hate myself for getting rid of that one. If you can get them for that price and it's the power you need there's not a "better" option in that price range IMO.

I just do 20 inches per cube and hope for the best. Not really but I've used more than that with awesome results. Depends on the sub and tuning. Here's a link to read through. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=21