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Found 42 results

  1. Good day SMD community, About to undertake electrical wiring upgrade on my 2017 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost XLT. Alternator is not super accessible so I'm thinking this may be tricky and wondering if anyone else has done big 3 on a 2015 up f-150 and can provide some direction. Pics and tricks for this specific vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  2. Just wanting to see if anyone can either point out the part # or if they are selling a dual or triple alternator bracket for a Ford F150 1997 4.6L V8. If its even possible with my model.
  3. I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the factory 9 speaker SYNC system (not Sony). I installed a RF P2 15" sub along with a Precision Power A404 (old school Art Series amp) and a RF Power 300 (old school) and a RF 3Sixty.3 processor. I used the 3Sixty high level inputs for signal and amp turn on. Everything was fine until the 3Sixty bricked out. I replaced the 3Sixty with an Audio Control LCQ-1. I had zero problems. I sent the 3Sixty back to Rockford (out of warranty) and paid the flat fee for repair. I got a 3Sixty back and reinstalled it. Now I have a serious turn OFF pop. The late model Fords have no 12 volt SWITCHED output that I can find. Ford uses a CANBUS system. The power stays on the processor and amps after you exit the car. The exterior and interior lights stay on after the key is removed. When the interior lights go off there is a loud POP then the power goes off. Then about a minute later the headlights will shut off but when they do the processor comes back on and turns the amps on and then they POP again and shut off. I didn't have this problem with the first 3Sixty or the AC LCQ-1. Did they send me back a bad processor? I tried the turn off delay and that didn't help. There is no audible turn ON noise. Extremely frustrating.
  4. Hi guys, its been a while since Ive posted anything at all on this forum. I've been around lurking a few time hear and there and never lost interest in the hobby, but life happens and you don't always have time or money for the things you love. Well that's why I am back, technically we're back, this is going to be the build log of my hetero life mates 2016 ford focus st3. We've bullsh!ted about doing a build here and there, but now things are finally underway. Let us start by saying the "stock" radio isn't exactly horrible, its done him well so far but we both knew from the beginning it was never going to be enough. So after a few sessions talking about what we could do, what he wants out of it, and what would be best for his music tastes, we decided on somewhat of a SQL system. Then more talking and researching this is where we are currently at... The power-plant.. 4/0 Big 3 Upgrade(because why not) Kinetik HC2000-PRO under the hood US Alternator high output alt 2. In the middle Crescendo S800.4 2x Crescendo Mezzo SQ2 comp sets Rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 12 awg knukoncepetz speaker wire 50ft each of knukonceptz OFC 1/0 awg Red/Black 60+ sqft damplifier pro 50+ sgft luxury liner pro 3. In the back Crescendo 5.5K FI Audio BTL Neo 15" 8 awg "speaker" wire Now I know ill probably catch people asking why the 5.5k when we could easily get by with something smaller, but that's what we settled on, and running at 2 ohms should work out great. Besides that we know we have a lot work ahead of us, but we've already started. I've played with a few ideas on different enclosures, and have a general idea of how we are going to fit the system in under the factory rear gate cover. Stock there is about 40in wide and about 15" high and about 23" deep of room. But if we build our own false floor to replace the factory one and remove the FULL size spare, we can easily free up another 5-7in of height. So that's what we are doing. Then plan currently is to build up and modest false floor and then house the 3sixty the factory amp and the 800.4 under neath it, with an extended USB port for the 3sixty inconspicuously located somewhere easily accessible once everything is installed, and possibly a fan or 2 to help keep everything cool under there. Well run 2 sets of power to the back under the car, possibly a ground or 2 as well seeing how thin all the sheet metal is back there. A distrobution block will be required in the back as well to feed power to the amps. the 3sixty will probably steal power from the factory radio, but maybe not. The doors will get the full treatment, hopefully we can form some sheet metal in all the dead air between the door frames(there will be pics a plenty). My having access to a full welding shop comes in handy there. We already got a decent amount of damplifier in the roof, but there really wasnt any room for the luxury liner and i dont think it would be crucial if it was left out so we did. Plus just getting the headliner out and back in again was enough of a headache. Currently the carpet and the seats are out and we're ready to start putting the damplifier on the floor and pillars and rear quarter panels. I'm sure Ill have more to add as the week goes on, but most of the progress that I'm helping with will be on the weekends, as we work opposite hours. (Note: Not everything as been purchased yet, some not for the lack of trying *cough*crescendo amps*cough*) TL;DR: Cool build incoming, Stay Tuned!
  5. I aint new in here, but we don't really see such kinda installs here in India. I know walled setups in other countries are common but here in India it is relatively new. Some of you folks might have checked my earlier build log posted here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/151241-2-fi-sp4s-in-a-ford-in-india/ I was using 2 FI SP4 15"s in a ported enclosure in boot of a SUV and managed to do a hairtrick. A vid can be seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO7nID88yJQ&feature=player_embedded Was already bored of the setup and wanted to try something new.. Went through a thread on CACO regarding 4th orders and decided to try one of those for SP4's (Got impressed by vids posted by soundstreamsilverado), Took his suggestions regarding the enclosure and that's how it all started. Once again the ride in which the setup was done..
  6. have a 1999 ford explorer sport with the 4.0 ohv motor. i have a 270a 15v h/o alt installed in oem location. wanting to add my 2nd 270a alt. it can go in place of the ac pump or elsewhere.. anyone got a lead to one?
  7. I am thinking of bed lining my entire truck. Does anyone have any expierence with this? And what would be some pros and cons to doing it?
  8. Hello, Reading around I was not able to find a definitive answer to my questions, so I decided to take the initiative and experiment myself! The question in mind is one alot of people seem to be having. WHERE SHOULD I POINT THE PORT AND SUBWOOFER TO MAXIMIZE SQ/SPL/SOUND TO EAR. So let us get started shall we? The truck in mind here is the ford extended cab, which is the same for many years(if someone can be more specific, feel free to chime in). These same boxes could obviously be used in other trucks, along with cars. THE RESULTS HERE ARE ONLY SPECIFICALLY APPLICABLE TO THIS GENERATION OF FORD EXT CABS The questions: 1. Does it make a difference where I put the box? 2. Does it make a difference if I fire the ports sideways(and if so, which way?), up, back, etc? 3. Does it make a difference If I fire the driver down, forwards, backwards, etc? 4. And finally, if the above does in fact make a difference, Which way is 'best'? The above questions, and any others, I can answer with the experiment. This will be done so and documented over the next week. As of now, I have designed the boxes in SketchUp, and layed them out in WinISD alpha. Both are EXTREMELY close on the Magnitude chart, so it should be as close as possible of a comparison. These boxes will be number 2 and 3 in my building career, however the first one turned out great Attatched are the SketchUp files, as well as the project in WinISD alpha. If someone, or multiple, would look over the designs to make sure I did not miss anything and got the ports right, I would GREATLY appreciate it. The more eyes the better, right? Boxes: The boxes have IDENTICLE outside deminsions, and are extremely close in NET volume(not perfect due to different double baffles) Tuned to 34.14 and 34.70, respectively 1) has the sub firing down, up, or forward depending on how I flip it, and the port to the side. http://www.mediafire.com/download/e5su25z4c4152ht/Box_1%2C_Downfiring.skp 2) has the sub firing forwards, and the port up. This one could also be flipped to make it sub up, port any which way, or even sub back. http://www.mediafire.com/download/2k6y77ve49rq47d/Box_2%2C_Forward_firing.skp The drivers to be used in this experiment are Sundown X-10 Version 2. For later experiments they will likely be switched to SA-10s, as the X's will go in a future build. This experiment will be extensively studied, as it will help me, among others, with future builds. This is my way of beginning my contribution to the community! WinISD alpha file: http://www.mediafire.com/download/cg2ha55b323affw/X10_Experiment.wpr
  9. Okay so here she is. This is a 2007 Ford F-150 in shadow grey and I've had it since I was 16. I dont have many pictures of before I did everything, but I wanted to get an overview type build log up and going. You can see what all equipment I have in my sig, but just in case that you can't here is all of it. Fi Q 15 High QTS option Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcp Rockford Fosgate T400-4ab Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5 components Rockford Fosgate Punch 6x8 coaxials Pioneer AVH-P2300DVD Mechman 250 amp alternator XS Power D3400 Rockford Fosgate 1/0 wiring kit tons of SHCA wire That's all I can think about at the moment. Here is the headunit, and the SMD VM-1( one of my favorite things in the truck). Also what was the cigarette lighter is now a PAC LC-1. It's always funny to watch people's reactions when I'm turning what they think is the cigarette lighter and the bass gets louder. Here are the kill swiches for my system. Left to right is Mids&Highs, Sub, and then VM-1 Side shot of everything Here's a picture of the front doors with the 6.5 components in them. I'm not too particularly happy with how the doors turned out so I'll probably re-do them someday. Here's some pictures of the amps and the enclosure. The enclosure is 3.5 net cu. ft. sealed. Here is some under-the-hood shots. I know it's not particularly clean under the hood, but it's hard to keep it clean since I live in South Georgia and it's always either dry as hell or flooding rain. Probably some of the best money I've ever spent. Some more pictures of the outside, and some pictures next to my other baby. Well that's all I have for now. I'll post more pictures if I make any changes, but it's been this way for awhile so I probably wont make any changes soon. Also constructive criticism and help is always welcome, so feel free to comment and tell me if something doesn't look right or if there is a better way to do something. I won't get mad haha
  10. So I'm not building anything crazy...yet...but I thought I'd start a build log anyways. I've got a 2003 Explorer Sport and have done some stuff here and there to it. 20% tint, PlastiDipped the stock wheels, 3" lift shackles, 6000k HIDs all around, RF speakers all around, Pioneer h/u Back in high school I had a RF 15" P3 and a 1000w crunch amp. It was a decent start and sounded really nice for my first system. Had to buy a grill for it because I was constantly throwing crap in the back THE UPCOMING SETUP: FI BL18 SoundQubed Q1-2200D All new wiring 7 cube Ported Box @ 33hz 50 sq/ft of FatMat Big 3
  11. Starting my first big build ever. First things first, the box. I will posty more when I get farther along on the build,
  12. Whats up everybody! This is my first thread on here and I figured I should make it a good one. lol So I'm makin it my build thread of my new project. Some of you may have seen my Ranger on youtube. http://www.youtube.c...ettrickscustoms Bunch of cool stuff on there ranger and otherwise much of comin. So anyway I dont take many pics when we work just vid. heres the system I had and a distance test.
  13. ok, so this is going to be a real slow build with no real progress until sometime next summer (hopefully June). going through a lot of changes at the moment with a whole lot going on. anyways list of equipment I already have (2) t2d415 (in storage different state) (2) punch pro 6.5 (installed) (2) punch pro tweets (installed) (1) t400.4 (installed) (1) pioneer 80prs (installed) (1) t1500.1bdcp (in storage different state) (1) 10 farad Rockford cap (installed) ( yeah ive heard about caps, personal exp it has helped slightly with keeping voltage up) enough Rockford 0/1 gauge to do 2 runs and big 3 (1 run installed no big 3 on this car yet) plenty of 16gauge for the doors (installed) should have enough 4gauge for the amps singer 250 amp alt ( currently sent back for repair and external regulator setup ) fuse holders/fuses hx2 power 12" for a temp setup im going to hopefully have a box for it and installed soon. things I still need batteries ( for sure either platinum diehard or kinetic for cheaper price but proven performance) either t2 or t3 component set 2nd t400.4 2nd t1500.1bdcp smd volt meter material for fiberglassing wood, nail gun, wood glue, liquid nails ( in general box building tools, materials ) 8gauge for speaker wire lots of sound deadener not a whole lot on that list some spendy items that will take time to get but it shall be done.. sooner or later... the plan is to do an all Rockford build with decent sq and great output. not building for the meter but if I can get up to a 148 I would be especially happy. going more for my personal enjoyment and dedication to a great hobby. performance build what i have (installed) aem cold air intake aftermarket exhaust manifold 2.5"? (looks last owner did it im gonna make changes) exhaust from manifold back tein lowing springs rear sway bar (looks kinda like an eibach but don't know, aftermarket for sure though. light weight pulleys ( going to put a stock crank pulley back on because of the harmonic balancer ) what to get kyb adjustable shocks and struts all new bushing through out the suspension engine and tranny mounts clutch/fly wheel minor head work maybe raise compression a bit tune appereance cant remember the name of the stuff right now but that paint that peels right off when you want to change colors... hid fog lights hid headlights ( have but not on this car yet ) carbon fiber hood (installed needs touch ups) carbon fiber hatchdoor ?maybe? tinted windows 18" enkie wheels (installed) ill have to use my phone to add pics give me sometime for pics. for some reason i cant paste to this forum, works with everything else on my computer just not this forum.
  14. I'm looking to get the rear end of my 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis? Does anyone have a solution for this? I don't want to use the blocks that go under the springs because I take the subs out sometimes. Any help will greatly be appreciated.
  15. I've got a 06 Ford F150 with just a single Singer 340 in the factory location, I'm in need of somebody pointing me in the right direction or knows of somebody who can make wants to sell a triple bracket for my particular truck,open to opinions too
  16. NolFrank97

    GOOD Head unit?

    What is a good head unit for under $120? I have a 2000 F150 and want to put in an aftermarket head unit, and would like some suggestions on some decent ones for under $120.
  17. Ok, So my buddy has a 2011 f150 XLT supercrew truck. He wants to keep his factory headunit since it has ford's SYNC. He wants to add an amp for his highs and add an amp for 2 kicker 10s for underneath back seat. Question is... What is best way to add the RCAs needed for the amps? I kno he will need some sort of line output converter. But should he order 3 2channel converters or a 4 channel and a 2 channel?? Next is where to hook up the converters? right before the speaker or behind head unit? He is trying to do this for as cheap as possible.. Please keep this in mind. Also, if anyone knows the factory speaker ratings, that would be really helpful.. Thanks guys..
  18. As the build starts to take shape I guess its time to get the build log rolling. My last 4th order was fun, I learned alot, it was kinda dissapointing the 4th order thread came out a few months after I built it, I could have learned alot from it. I decided this time around I am going over the fenderwells, or through them.. I want a shell solid, I can change the baffles in it later if I ever need to. I still haven't decided on what combination of subs yet, alot of ideas are floating around. Some of them 3-4 18s 4-6 15s 8-12 12s I have 2 SAZ 3500 v2s, I plan for 2 more. Batteries will come before I get subs. They will be going in a battery rack where the spare tire goes. I can fit 8 group 31s under there. I got a few cosmetic ideas that should be pretty unique for this build, but they are ideas so I will not psot them up until I actually have fiished it. Something I have always wanted to do, is a 160, I think all of us do, I think it would be awesome to do it before I turn 21. I would honestly be happy with upper 50s on a decently wide bandwidth. So onto pics, not much to look at but a empty truck and alot of metal. If you want to get inside my head on what I think about the build, check out my youtube, I film my self way more than I should. Right now its slow going, I am saving $250 or so a week for the build. School will put a dampener on it this fall. The Truck Pulling the old wall out. Some steel, ended up needing 2 more sticks of 2x1 2 SAZ-3500 v2s Shell bolted down 2x1 14ga next to 1x1 14ga How the angles sit
  19. I am currently looking to start a new build, practically "copying" off of Altima1's Sealed Off Trunk Build, because it's exactly what I'm looking to do, and love the way he's done it! Here's his link: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/158900-removable-rear-door-brace-started-06-altima-6k-trunk-build-fi-15-sp4-hair-trick-vids/ WHAT KIND OF CAR IS GOOD FOR THIS TYPE OF BUILD? IM LOOKING FOR A 2006-2010 CAR TO SEAL OFF THE TRUNK FORWARD LIKE THAT. SO FAR MY IDEAS ARE A CHEVY IMPALA, MAYBE FORD FUSION. SUGGESTIONS PLEASEE? I HAVE A COMPETITION IN JULY AND AM NOT NEAR READY YET, HAVE TO FIND A DECENT VEHICLE SOON! A few thoughts running (franticly) through my head are these: Ford Fusion - "Rumor" from someone on youtube is that Ford's cannot thoroughly deaden the roof's...not true? Other thought, 2010 Chevy Impala - has a TON of Airbags, including in the roof area, how do I deaden that without F'ing something up, not to mention on 4000 Watts will I be setting any of those off? PLEASE in all sincerity can someone make a LEGIT suggestion on how I should do this, or at least name a few affordable newer large-trunk cars? I appreciate it! Thank you
  20. Welcome to my UBL Any comments that you have can be redirected here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141120-98-ford-escort-zx2-more-fiberglassing-in-progress/ I hope you enjoy It all started out with this little boring car here I didn't do much in the way of a system previous to joining SMD. It's kinda embarrassing.... I have a Pioneer HU that I got for $20, Polk audio coaxials on HU power, and a whopping 50wrms 8" bazooka tube LOL first thing I did after ditching the bazooka tube was to get help on building a box went out and bought a 500wrms @ 2ohm kicker amp (turned out it was 500wrms @ 1ohm - it was from craigslist lol) installed the remote gain knob
  21. Ok so i just found out that my 90 bronco xlt has the weakest altnator in the world at 70-80 amp. plus my battery is shit. so i found used alts on ebay for under50 from different model fords that had 120 ampalts. i know that not much but its bettr then what i have now. My question with the 120 alt will i need another battery to go with a new starter one. im about to run 1800w rms for the 18 and 400w for the doors and 6x9s. I will be one day going to 2 18s when my funds permit. i was thinking of getting 2 battterys from sonic cant think of the name right now but the have 600 cranking. and only 69 bucks. together thats cheaper or the same a just getting a walmart battery. Am i thinking to hard on this one or will i really 2 two batteries. thanks for all yall help. and if i go with one or two which would be the best under $150 total. i can go more just hoping i dont have to.
  22. Game Over 9 inch alpine nav for GM, Ford and Toyota. Alpine Won 2014CES Best new Navigation Got a large ol' lorry with a large ol' dashboard? Alpine Electronics of America has usually announced a large ol' audio/video/navigation receiver to fill it. At a whopping 9 inches totalled diagonally, a Alpine X009 that was denounced currently during CES 2014 is a largest of a kind in a North American aftermarket. The X009 is so large that it's outward of a dynamic DIN and double-DIN standards that have been used by a attention for decades, so it's not accurately universal. At launch, it will usually be concordant with 2007-2013 GM trucks and 2007-2014 GM SUVs as partial of Alpine's Perfect F.I.T. lurch pack module underneath a indication series X009-GM. Compatibility with 2009-2012 Ford F-150 (X009-FD1) and 2013-2014 Ford F-150 (X009-FD2) trucks will be expelled after in 2014 with a concept designation focus (X009U) to follow. The X009-GM facilities a tradition ascent pack that is concordant with GM trucks and SUVs. (Credit: Alpine Electronics) The X009-GM's Perfect F.I.T. pack facilities external, earthy controls that have been custom-designed to compare a lighting color, shape, and character of a GM lorry and SUV models in that a section will be installed. The Ford applications that follow will underline their possess outmost controls to compare a F-150′s dashboard. Both units will promulgate with a vehicle's bureau steering-wheel controls, evidence systems, gauges, and other bureau systems around a iDatalink Maestro Module. The thought is to make a 9-inch shade demeanour and act like OEM equipment. The concept X009U will not boat with these controls or specific dashboard kits, so a tradition designation will be required. You can gamble that we'll try to squeeze one of these into CNET's small yellow hatchback for contrast as shortly as it comes available. Aside from being positively massive, a X009 receiver is a entirely featured A/V and navigation receiver. Audio sources embody built-in HD Radio tuning, full Pandora Internet Radio control from USB-connectediPhone and Bluetooth-paired Android devices, and iPod and iPhone media controls when connected around USB and Siri Eyes-Free controls for iPhones when connected around Bluetooth. That same Bluetooth tie also allows for hands-free job and Bluetooth audio streaming. The X009 units are also concordant with Alpine's second-generation TuneIt smartphone-based sound tuning app. You can use TuneIt 2.0 to tweak a sound settings of your audio complement (like Time Correction, Parametric EQ, and Crossover), download vehicle-specific presets, and share those settings with friends on Facebook around a giveaway app on an Android or iPhone device. With such a large screen, it seems a contrition that Alpine has usually seen fit to magnify a X009 with WVGA resolution. That it has an MHL-compatible HDMI input, permitting connectivity to a far-reaching accumulation of mobile devices, creates a miss of a high-definition shade that most some-more unsatisfactory on paper, though we'll haven settlement until we can get hands-on with a device. The section comes with Alpine's navigation program preloaded with maps of a United States (including Alaska and Hawaii) and Canada with a lifetime of Navteq RDS trade data. The 9-inch Alpine X009-GM hits a marketplace with GM lorry and SUV harmony in Jun of this year. The manufacturer's suggested sell cost has not nonetheless been determined. Email: [email protected] 310-827-8121 store hours Mon-Sat 9am-6pm PST http://www.delreycustoms.com http://delreycustoms.myshopify.com/blogs/news http://www.ae-33.com http://www.facebook.com/AEMarina33 http://www.twitter.com/delreycustoms http://www.yelp.com/biz/al-and-eds-auto-sound-marina-del-rey Powered by DRC Media LLC & Al & Ed's Autosound
  23. Okay guys I figured it was time to finally post a build log, I've trolled on SMD too long to not post own my build. 06 Ford F150 w/ the 4.6 motor in it and before anybody says anything yes, this was my first car and I'm thankful as hell that my parents bought me my first car, P.S. this truck has 246,xxx miles on it and still runs flawlessly! Thank god *knocks on wood* My junior in high school I bought wheels for her and lowered the rear 4 inches with a DJM flip kit and lowered the front 2 inches with DJM coils, other than that everything has been put towards my system. On to the build, WHATS GOING INSIDE: 2 Digital Designs 3500 15's D4 w/ carbon fiber dustcaps 1 Digital Designs M3B 1 Arc Audio 300.4 for mid's and high's 2 Alpine Type R 6.5 component sets in each door 5 C&D batteries in the tool box (planning for more power later on) Singer 340 amp alternator w/ PCM bypass control module cause Ford's suck and like to regulate amperage For now that's it, I plan on doing a B pillar wall with 4 15's something here before summer or maybe SBN depending on money. Since a build log isn't a build log without pictures here y'all go, I know I'm a picture whore when it comes to build logs My truck WHATS GOING INSIDE
  24. I guess it's time I start my build thread. The idea is re-paint the expo all black. Black out head lights and tail lights and grill and stuff. Solid black rims. Gonna put double 5% from rear doors to back hatch for window tint. Gonna put 20% of driver n passenger door. Gonna put 35% on front windshield. Gonna keep all lights inside the cab green. Gonna put green HID's I think. Might go blue. Idea is to make the car blacked out on the outside. With all the instruments and stuff with green lights will make it look like inside a black hawk with the green lights from the controls and radar and night vision. Basically hear me before you even see me on top of you. Guess id start the thread with my recent started project on the car. Digital volt meter. I see how a ton of you guys have them in your dash boards and stuff. Me no like, So I seen someones thread where they had put them in there flip down section of the console on roof. So I liked how it look and i decided it was me so I did it today. I got the wires ran, every thing hooked up. Just gotta make a plate for the face to hide the wires and drill one hole to runt he wires thru to hide them completely.
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