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Found 31 results

  1. I've been helping a buddy install a system in his 2016 Jeep Wrangler JK. I finally have enough pics to start a build log, so I'll be loading all of them up over the next couple weeks. The requirements were simple: he wanted (4) 8's or nothing at all. Silly? Maybe; but we met the requirements and hope to be banging before the end of the year The stock sub (an 8x10) has 4 voice coils Ran some numbers in TermLab at first, but then switched the design over to WinISD. Came up with this size enclosure: That router feels good man Went with PSI-8's with High Performance suspension for 600Wrms per sub We were jammin some of that good techno The original plan was to have a few tube ports, but I had a hunch that they were too small. Thats about the time that Triticum came out with his port velocity calculator, and I realized the port velocities with these small ports would give me the tuning we were wanting, but also gave us almost 100 m/s port velocity (yikes!) Then the design changed to have a properly sized port attached to the back panel, bringing the velocities down to around 25-30 m/s I didnt really trust my kerf skills yet More pics coming tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
  2. I've wanted an XJ for almost 10 years and I just recently was in the position to pick one up. I got a 1997 with 221k miles, the 4.0 inline six, and auto. Cost me $2k. Its exactly what I've been looking for. The plan for this vehicle is to just be my running-around rig. I would like to do some mild to moderate wheeling with it, and I want something I can do whatever I want with without worrying about practicality much. I don't have a lot money to put into this so everything is going to be pretty budget focused, but its still a whole lot better than nothing!!! Anyway, here it is. Its not much to look at, but I don't see it for what it is, but for what it can be :-) Looks a bit better under the hood after some effort with the pressure washer. The Jeep needs a fair amount of maintenance done to it, along with some mechanical upgrades. From there I'll get to the audio system work. First order of business was to get the thing up on the lift. I had to do some shop Tetris to fit the Jeep along with my tractor into our shop (which is also, apparently, my wife's crossfit gym). The maintenance issues that needed to be addressed were: Replace all fluids & filters Fix hood latch Rebuild rear brakes Replace spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor Replace oil pressure sending unit Replace rear main seal, oil pan gasket, & valve cover gasket Here some pictures of some of that work. Old brakes New brakes Under the valve cover, a bit sludgy. I took the pic after I cleaned it up at bit too. I decided it would be easier to clean the carpets with the seats out, they are a bit of a mess. Unfortunately the front passenger foot well was soaked in water, pulling up the carpet revealed some car cancer. I forgot to take a picture of it, but that mess was wire brushed off, treated with some acid-based rust converted, and then given a couple coats of POR-15 rust preventative paint. I think the water came in from a leaking plug in the foot well. It was right were water would get flung in coming off the front tire. I sealed everything up well so I think this problem should be fixed. Fortunately nothing had rusted all the way through.
  3. Parts of this log will be copied over from where I currently have it on CACO I just wanted to share it here since I'm a new member started working on it in early December it's a slow project. Well for a long time I'd been trying to sell my Grand Prix and just couldn't seem to get rid of it. Guy offered to trade me a Jeep and I've always wanted a jeep so despite the Jeep having 250K miles I took him up on it. The interior is super clean and the outside is in good shape as well. Rockers are a little rusty but that's a Michigan Jeep thing.The plan for the Jeep is for it to be a winter beater/audio ride. Trying to keep the salt off of my Duramax. As far as the audio goes planning a B Pillar 4th for 4 18's on roughly 8k. From my rough measurements today I will have 46 cubes gross to work with. Progress will be kind of slow as I'm currently laid off. The goal is to be finished by whenever the first show in Michigan is. Will be primarily competing in IASCA and ISPLL. I always wanted a cool build log name even though it's lame.Builds that I'll be pulling some inspiration from include, Galen Winesette's Jeep, Chris Russ' Jeep, and Don's TDH Jeep.Tenative Equipment List:Electrical2 Mechman 320's Externally RegulatedFull Throttle Group 31 for under the hoodJY Lithium (Leaning towards 80 AH)Welding Cable 2/0 (Lots of it)ILL Customz Battery Terminals Clarion CZ702 already have (unless I find a great deal on an 80 PRS)4 Cascade Omega Neo 18's (building motors like Robs, PSI recones likely)Amp must be under 8K class restrictions (Flatline B2A, M1S, AB 750.1)Not sure on mids probably Crescendo PWX's or McLaren4 Channels (Really thinking PPI 900.4's)Other:Welder (Really want a lincoln Power Mig 210 with the Tig torch)300 or so feet of steel 1x2 tubingAir Bags of some sort I'm sureBHE 4th order design or something similarVolt Meters Out with the old: In with the new: Like I said it's clean: Going to be a shame to gut it from the B-Pillar back: Steel sets:
  4. I want to thank you for taking the time to look at my thread. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I've been saving and working for this for 4+ months. Here so I go. Mids & Highs: x2 NVX Audio X-Series 6.5s 2 way component speaker sets. To Connect to.. Soundqubed Q4-90 Low: x2 Soundqubed HDC3 10 To Connect to.. Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 HO Alt: Js Ultimate Alts 240a Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable HU: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Battery: XS Power D6500 Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120mil I have three boxed of this stuff but installed some:
  5. So I purchased a 04 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain edition just recently and of course the stock sound system had to go lol. Right now the jeep has a 4" lift and some 31" tires on some M/T SideBiter wheels. Tinted 35% all the way around except for windshield which has a 35% 5" strip. Stock Radio (Lame) New Radio Okay here we go Sub box 2 15's in a 7ish cuft box tuned to around 30.5ish hertz. Kind of messy lol 2 american bass HD 15s dual 2 ohm Okay so I still got tons of work to do lol should have way more pics tomorrow. Right now the sub box has about 1/2 a gallon worth of fiberglass resin and all corners and joints where wood meets wood have 2 layers of fiberglass and to top it all off I bed lined the whole inside of the sub box.
  6. ok so i have alot of pics and i cant post them all here as it would just take too long. so here are some of the main pics basiclly its a 15" dayton ultimax in a 4.7ft^3 tuned at 25hz, dual 4.25" octoports each 25" long, each port hand cut and made from 3/4" mdf only running about 200rms right now and it sounds amazing. before starting the build i put down 200ft^2 of 110mill GTmat sound deadner, took out all my seats and carpet and plastics. also used 14 cans of big gap filler for all the empty space in the panels full system specs: sony BT headunit alpine pdx-f6 4x150rms alpine pdx-m12 1x1200rms full KnuKonceptz wiring, blocks and other stuff 4x dayton 7" esoteric speakers, each with a 3" titanium voice coil 2x dayton AMT-8 tweeters in factory tweeter locations crossed at 4500hz with the front door speakers 1x dayton ultimax um1522 subwoofer box uses 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf and a 14.5"x30" acrylic sheet for the window with 34-2" long hex bolts box still needs to be cleaned out from saw dust on the inside but you get the look and idea of it this is the alpine pdx-f6 4ch amp, the 1200w is the same size 7" dayton esoteric dayton AMT tweeter
  7. Hey folks. First post here and I love the forum. I am trying to find out if I can run a high-level input from my factory head-unit to two separate amps (i.e. put a T in the head-unit output and run each to a small amp). I have a Jeep Wrangler JK, and have the top down/doors off a lot. I need to keep the cheap ugly OEM radio for anti-theft reasons. The OEM radio is TERRIBLE, but I am stuck with trying to polish a turd. I also can't have a sub in the back, or someone could just reach in and walk away with it. Everything will look stock when I am done with it. My plan is have: 2x 3.5" speakers in dash. 2x 5.25" subwoofers in the sealed lower dash pods. 2x 6.5" coaxials in sound bar above my head. 2x bass-shakers in the seats. and 2x JL HX 280/4 amplifiers hidden under the dash I need cross overs on each of them, so this is why I need two separate 4-channel amps with high-level inputs. Thanks for the help!
  8. Moe's not a basshead so this system isn't crazy and I should be fucking shot for not taking more pictures but oh well... We cleaned and bedlined the floorpan, installed a locking steel console for the head unit and amp and build a water resistant box for the rear speakers and sub. The box has chop mat on the bottom and few layers of resin on the outside and in the subwoofer section, to combat moisture. Equipment: 1 - Pioneer DEH-X4700BT head unit 2 - db Drive S3 v2 52 5.25" dash speakers 2 - db Drive ATP6.0 6.5" wake tower speakers with 1" compression horn tweeter 1 - db Drive APM250.4 Marine four channel amp 1 - Quantum Audio Entry level 10" sub Sub and rear speakers are on the amp and the front speakers are on the head unit. They're mainly there to pull the audio image to the front. We removed the wake tower speakers from their pods and mounted them in the box on either side. The sub is tuned to 45Hz and not because anything below that is useless information but because anything below that on an open air vehicle isn't gonna be heard, lol. So, peaking at 45Hz will give him the best bass possible in a compromised environment. As I said above, I didn't take many pics but I did get a short video of it playing. Teh boks... Finished and playing. We also made and installed the Gipsy Danger stickers....
  9. We were asked to do an install for SEMA 2014 and PAS Magazine on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler.... Oh and You only have a week to complete it. After kicking the idea around for a couple days I said sure why not. We can use a little excitement around the shop main sponsors so far: Injen Technology Ct Sounds Nitto tires Method Racing wheels CT Sounds audio gear front stage: 2 pair Strato 6.5 inch components midbass: 2 8 inch1 under each seat Rear sound bar: 1 pair Meso 6.5 inch components Cargo area: Meso 6.2 inch Components Subwoofer: Strato 12 inch dual 2 ohm ported enclosure Amplifiers: 60.4 channel 60.4 500.1 5 channel
  10. Hey guys, I just recently got my Jeep Cherokee XJ that I will be using as a daily/off road rig. I will soon be upgrading it to a 4.5" lift on 32s, also should hopefully be getting around to making the roof rack. But with having an off roading rig I have to downgrade my system from a soundqubed 18" to some 10's. I wanted to run run a single Fi Q-12, but I had these two laying around so I decided to just use these subs instead. I will be running: x2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10 x1 Soundqubed Q1-1200 x1 Soundqubed Q4-120 x1 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Headunit x4 Some MTX Coaxial speakers that were in the car when I bought it (I will eventually be replacing those with some kind of components) I have all the pieces cut out here. Because of the way I am putting these in my car I decided to make two separate boxes and later make it look like one through the use of beauty panels. If I had designed it to be one single box it would have deprecated sound quality or I would have had to changed the layout inside my car. Neither of which I wanted to do. Test fitting the box together. Speaker hole cut out. Gluing the box together. I did not use NEARLY enough clamps. I let the glue set a little then replaced the clamps with some screws and this box is pretty much finished. The second box is completely identical to this one. Playing around with some trim panel ideas. I liked this one a lot. It has a fogged plexiglass insert that can be LED it. More to come!
  11. ok baiscly im wokring on a plan to build into my jeep, i just dropped the money on 4 15" HDC4 and 2 q1-4500d.1 amps... i was wondering what all would be needed in front stage to keep up with that at full tilt? i only have the front doors of a 2004 jeep grand cherokee to work with. so far im thinking 2-8" 8ohm crescendo PWX, a 6.5" 4ohm PWX and 2 FT1 4ohm tweets for EACH side. ill be running 2 Q4-90s. Ratings: SPEAKERS 8"pwx 200rms each 6.5pwx 150rms each ft1 tweet 80rms each AMP 4ohm-90rmsx4ch 2ohm-130rmsx4ch bridged 4ohm 260rmsx2ch wiring will go as listed..... LEFT DOOR 2-8" 8ohm PWX parallel to 4ohm on bridged 1/2 channel of amp 1 (260rms to the pair at 4ohms) 6" 4ohm PWX in channel 1 of amp 2 (90rms at 4ohm) 2-FT1 4ohm parallel to 2ohms on channel 3 of amp 2 RIGHT DOOR 2-8" 8ohm PWX parallel to 4ohm on bridged 3/4 channel of amp 1 (260rms to the pair at 4ohms) 6" 4ohm PWX in channel 2 of amp 2 (90rms at 4ohm) 2-FT1 4ohm parallel to 2ohms on channel 4 of amp 2 same on each door, just put to different channels VIEWS, THOUGHTS, ADVICE... all welcomed... i just wanna make sure that would be enough to keep up and hear the music or if im dead wrong. and any advice on good EQ's for the highs? and what i would tune it at. the subs will be tuned at 37hz 16.75ft^3 wall
  12. ive decided to double my power from 10krms to 20krms and i know im going to have to run dual alts... i planned to get a single 320a from mechman, but now ill get 2 of them. i need to know if anyone knows a place that has dual alt brackets for a 1999-2004 jeep grand cherokee v8 or a good place that can custom make one?
  13. Sup guys.. Well after a couple systems I actually feel like this one is "thread worthy" I finally have most of it, and should be playing before June 29th, for the Usaci show in Houston at House Of Sounds And before I go any further, I want to thank Kim at Sound Solutions in Houston, TX for the box, and my fiberglassed door panels, and the super hook up on the prices. They do some great work, and for someone who doesn't have the skills of doing it they are the right place to get anything done! Car Details 2003 Jeep Grand Cherroke Leardo 88k Miles 22" 2Crave No. 11 wrapped in 265/30/22 Spec D halo projector headlights w/ 55w Canbus 5k headlights now for what everyone really wants to know System Details (2) Sundown X 15's Crescendo 3500 @.5 Crescendo 1100.4 (2) sets Mezzo 6.5 fiberglassed in front doors Singer "270a" Hairpin alternator w/ powered coating XS Power VCM XS Power D6500 (2) XS Power D3100 CT Sounds OFC 0/1 (2runs front to back) CT Sounds 80Mil SHCA Lugs & Heatshrink Aluminum Battery Blocks (6 & 4 inputs) Plexi window Picked this up local, bnib Picked up 2 1100.4, only using one though thanks to Scooter! Mezzo 6.5 Some SHCA goodies CT 80mil on doors, roof, back hatch From mike before I got the alt
  14. I'm new to this forum. I've done a few builds but never a Walled off build. I have a few questions really 1--when building a sub wall, do you simply build the skeleton of it and allow the weight of everything anchor it down or do you anchor it in place by other means? 2--Once the skeleton of the wall is complete, how are the "trim" pieces placed for a tight, flush fit? Same glue used in building enclosures or other means? 3--I already have 5% window tint on rear windows on top of the factory "privacy" glass, but want to "black out" the windows so NO light is coming in. Does anyone know what is good to use. I will NOT use paint of any kind as it will just flake off eventually. I have heard of others using black speaker carpet and/or black foam, but I don't want any of the adhesive to be seen from the outside.
  15. This is build number 287938479786 for my roommates 2007 SRT8 Jeep lol. I wanted to do something with kerfing and plexiglass. This is what I came up with initially. thats the end result. I might add some leds around the plexi edge because this is what happens, but we shall see. I just finished it today! let me know what you think!
  16. 2014 IASCA Flyweight Bassboxing rules changed to allow a second battery in the cargo area. Rebuild time. Current Equipment: -One Tantric Sounds HDD 15 d1 on a Sundown SAZ-3500Dv2 -Eight Sundown SA component mids on a Sundown SAX-125.4 -Eight Sundown SA component tweets on a CT Sounds 125.4 -One Singer 300a alt, two runs 0ga ofc, one g27 AGM and two g31 AGM batteries Box is coming to 7.2 cubes gross so far.
  17. PolishThunder

    HELP - 1998 Cherokee Rear Speakers

    A friends dad wants me to do a system upgrade done on his 1998 Jeep Cherokee, he wants new speakers, new HU, and possibly a sub, I know how to do the HU, the sub, and the new front speakers, but there are no speakers in the rear doors and he wants them added. How would i go about adding the speakers to the rear doors, or is there a better location for them to be located for the rear stage? Nothing special i would like to avoid as much fiberglass and custom work as possible to get this build done quickly. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!! PS: This is my first post on SMD so i hope its in the right place haha!
  18. 2014 IASCA Flyweight Bassboxing rules changed to allow a second battery in the cargo area. Rebuild time. Current Equipment: -One Tantric Sounds HDD 15 d1 on a Sundown SAZ-3500Dv2 -Eight Sundown SA component mids on a Sundown SAX-125.4 -Eight Sundown SA component tweets on a CT Sounds 125.4 -One Singer 300a alt, two runs 0ga ofc, one g27 AGM and two g31 AGM batteries Box is coming to 7.2 cubes gross so far.
  19. It looks like the audio bug bit me and at the same time the Jeep bug seemed to bite me. I'm picking up a Jeep XJ soon and I have a few questions as to what I need. Let me say that this is going to be a DD, and a LCOG Off Roader, and when it can be at shows a vehicle to show of my system. I want to make it as sound capable as possible while keeping it as a weekend warrior also. I will be modding it up slowly for audio and aftermarket lighting, but before I can do that I want to get the electrical situated first so that I don't have to deal with that later (I have learned from my mistakes from the past of doing audio first and electrical second). I do not want to experience that again cause it just plain sucked. I also happen to know that I do indeed need electrical modifications done prior because the stock charging system in an XJ is just down right terrible. This is the Electrical mod list I am going to do. 8k-10K Winch 4 sets of aftermarket lights Sound System (SQ 2200 @ 1 Ohm + 4 channel amp hopefully 100 x4 @ 4 ohm) XS Power D3400 (Under Hood) H.O Alternator Big Three Rock Lights Led Head Lights I don't know if I need a second battery for all of this but if I do then I don't know what would be sufficient enough for this. Another question I have is that some times the XJ has a cable that runs from the positive of the alternator to the stock fuse box, Would I just keep the wire there and run the new Fused 1/0 ga from the H.O alt straight to the battery? I also would like to deaden the ENTIRE Jeep to sound proof it as much as possible, floors, panels, roof, doors, cargo area. I also have a thought but I don't know if it would work to well, It was to rhino line or bedliner the entire floor after the deadner was layed down to keep it waterproof and deadned. Does anyone think that this would be a good idea or possible for that matter? Or should I deaden the floor then put the carpet back? I just want it to be waterproofed and deadned. How much deadner do you think I would need for the entire Jeep? I was thinking MurderMat because they seem to have the biggest pack per square foot. If anyone can suggest a good deadner that would be good for that I want that would be perfect. As for the audio I'm thinking this: x2 DC Level 3 12" Crescendo Audio CZ Series 5.25 + 6.5 (Or maybe 5.25 all around depending on XJ year) SQ 2200 @ 1 Ohm Undecided 4 Channel Amp My next question is for the subwoofers, What would be better for an SUV for subs, Subs up port back or subs back port back, This time I'm going for SQL. With my WJ I ran into the problem that when I turned up the volume up past a certain volume it sounded like the roof was going in and out (Subs was up port back) I could hear the roof vibrating violently. I think thought I might want the subs up again this time around because I need as much space as possible to put recovery gear in the trunk, So I need a small box. Wouldn't want my new subs to be poked in the cone or surround by something.
  20. Not sure how to go about this but, here goes nothing. Lol Name is Kevin Geissler This is my build in my daily driver, a 2000 jeep grand cherokee laredo. 2wd i6. Whats inside: Pioneer deh-9400bt Kicker mids/highs (doors) 2- DC lvl 2 15s Skar 1500.1 Rockford R400.4 RAM designs box tuned 34 hz Pictures to be posted tonight when i get off work
  21. Whats up guys! This is my second build log on caco, except this time this is the first time I did all the work myself including my first box, with great help from my lady I spent almost a month working on and off. Over the next couple of days I will be uploading more pics. Hopeful the build will be completed by Friday This is not a spl vehicle, so i'm not worried about numbers although a 55 would be nice on music Major shot out to TEAM SUNDOWN MEMBERS; Mike Jenkins, Scott & Jared, Robin Butler @ BHE ENT, dirtysouth 32 and all the smd memebers that help me along the way 1999 jeep grand cherokee 4.0L Bassheads ent ported box design/ 4th order coming in the summer 11 ply birch wood 3/4", fiberglass, truck bedliner Four Sundown zv3 18s Two crescendo bc5500s Ten kientik 16 volt batts Two alts externally regulated to charge at 18.7 volt sound proofing pioneer avic 9400 american bass/ pyle mids and highs boss 7 band eq 10 runs of audio technix cca 0 gauge wire screws were way to long, had to take them all out and go shorter. lol got the ol lady taking screws out, got to lover Did two layers of fiber glass inside and out for added strength Removable port , 270" of port area tuned to 33hz More pics coming tomorrow.
  22. Hey there, I'll be doing my first setup soon and I need some advice. I have some money to spend, but I'll look used and try to save where ever I can. I have a Jeep Cherokee 95. I'll be doing it all in the back space with the rear seats down. I really don't have an idea of where to start as far as brands are concerned. I know I want it to be very loud and have people be able to feel it from a good distance. I've been reading that the more cone space the better, so I was thinking about going with multiple 10's or 12's? Is that a good bet? Any help is appreciated! Thank you!
  23. No sir, this wont fly. Read rules before you attempt to sell here.. Thanks