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Found 176 results

  1. Hey guys I'm finally doing videos and updates of all the things I've been doing to my car over the last few years. I stumbled into the world of car audio a little over a year ago so im still learning. Its nice to have a community of intelligent people that I can bounce some ideas off. Let me know what you think! Teaser Video:
  2. Taking it back to the old school with the 1999 Rockford Fosgate Power 1100a2. This is one of Rockford's most powerful two-channel amps ever. It's rated to deliver 275W/ch at 4 ohms, 550W/ch at 2 ohms or 1100W at 4 ohms bridged. It also promises 1460 watts dynamically at 4 ohms using the IHF-202 standard test (1kHz, 14.4 volts). We take a look at the amp's exterior, interior and try it out on the Amp Dyno...Check it out!! Watch on YouTube in 1080/60p or embedded below:
  3. So I just recently got into car audio, and first went with a single rf 12 in a prefab box... later upgrading to a dual prefab box. I haven't experienced crazy bass but to me they hit pretty good even though I'm running them both at about rf's rated 750 watts (birth sheet rated 860 watts.) My current setup is with the QBomb(power) dual 12 box and two p3d4-12s wired to 2ohm each then wired in parallel internally by the R750-1D into 1ohm load. The vehicle I'm using is a 08 Honda civic ex, with all stock electrical right now. I have two questions. 1. Is it worth it upgrading the box into a custom ported one? or even a custom sealed one? 2. If so, how would I go about making my own design or bouncing them off this forum? I tried to use WinISD but I'm not sure if what I'm doing is correct, and I don't understand how to calculate the BL or Z (picture below). All the manufacturer lists is the Magnet Weight (oz): 96 oz. (2.73 kg.) but doesn't give amperage? "The formula is mass in grams divided by the current in amperes" Does this mean the amps drawn by the subs rms rating? I'm not too sure where to go from here but any help or advice would be appreciated -Josh
  4. Well i didn't remember to take any pics of cutting out my panels due to some frustration with my table saw but this first pic is me testing to insure i cut everything correctly it all aligns and i can start other things Did some google searching and traced a couple images that I'd possibly incorporate in to this build Pulled it all apart and started assembling and painting the port and baffle
  5. I did a quick search and couldn't find the answer. I was wondering what is the max wattage that can be pushed to 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4's wired down to 1ohm. I am still in the planning stage and want to make sure I get the right amp the first time. Thanks. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3d4-12
  6. FOLLOW LOG FOR SPRING '14 UPGRADES! Larger MechMan, More XS Power, RF Stuff, SHCA Cable +, & more!!! FOLLOW LOG FOR SPRING/SUMMER '13 UPGRADES! RF, Fi Audio, XS Power, MechMan, Stinger, Knu, & more!!! Installed in Spring '12: (Everything Is Box-Fresh New, ... except Kicker ZX550.3 - which I bought brand new in '05 ...) Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 (6.5" Components) Kicker Comp C12 (2 12", 4-ohm, SVC) Kicker 05ZX550.3 (1st Generation) Axxess GMOS-01 & ASWC Dynamat 4awg POS/NEG Runs Big 3 Pioneer FH-P8000BT - AM/FM/CD/USB/iPod/AUX1/AUX2/BlueTooth ... Installing the Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in same location as the OEM components, w/ minimum modifications needed. XTC foams used to protect them, but cut open on the bottom backside to allow for venting & wire connections. Since the Infinity x-overs are so large, I am mounting them in the trunk, & keeping the front door panels in one piece, & everything will look OEM with the stock grilles untouched. Amplifier is a Kicker 05ZX550.3 - 3 channel ... 2 channel stereo & a mono block side for the subs to run in 2 ohm mode ... Everything is new, including the amp ... even though its model year is 2005, & it is well-rated over its stated power, etc. (NOT my photo.) Kicker Comps. (NOT my photo.) The trunk volume of a 2003 Monte Carlo is 15.8cf. NO part of the car's rear deck/chassis is being cut or altered whatsoever - which I think is important, ... I firmly believe in not messing with a vehicle's structural integrity. This is my first time with an IB. I have always done the two 12's, sealed, & been done with it ... but the booomin' of those enclosures has worn thin on me after 20 years, ... so I wanted to do something different ... & something no one else around here has really done, or is doing, & certainly reclaiming trunk space for road trips, shopping, etc., is an extra, added bonus. I am paying particularly close attention to wood thickness, & mixture of types of wood, & sandwiching the MDF to give the bass a "warmer" sound by eliminating any high-pitched echo effects from the denser MDF, etc. I will radius the openings slightly as the platform makes its last transition "up" from MDF to birch to help kill any air noise that may have wanted to creep up, & out ... I will break out the bondo for that task ... Smoooooothness ... I do not expect too much vibration, but I will still use Liquid Nails to seal the "planks" together, & some coarse deck screws to further secure the structure. Additionally, I have large pieces of 1/2" - 1" of very dense foam in which to place between the top of the mounting platform, & the bottom of the rear deck ... looking in from the trunk ... where the factory amp/booster used to be ... I may have to use two pieces of foam, each one the FULL size of the rear deck, to get the desired leveled mounting. Besides the nearly 1" pieces I do have, I have as thin as 1/4" ... Therefore I do have options, & am not left to shove this in there with 2" or 3" of foam, & being left to deal with it. The type of IB platform/baffle I am building here is the following: One piece of 3/4" MDF sandwiched between two pieces of 3/4" genuine baltic birch. Then a ring of 3/4" birch is glued, screwed, & bondo'd to the bottom, & the sub will be screwed to the rings, & "hang" on either side like a cow's utters so they can "fire" up through the rear deck where the OEM 6x9's used to be housed. Well, this is what I have for right now, hopefully I have grabbed someone's attention enough that he/she got this far in the post. Leave a MSG! Follow me! Give me warm wishes. Criticism. Bitch me out! Just do NOT tell me that Ford's are better!!! *** EDITED IN 2014 BECAUSE PHOTOBUCKET SCREWED UP MY LINKS & FOR HEADER CHANGES ***
  7. So... The plans have changed a little bit, no wall but two 12's now The reason for making this new thread. Old thread https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205731-my-first-audio-build/ The car Still a lot more to deaden! Btw i've used Silent Coat and STP ak04 premium So the new plan(setup) will be as following: HU: ?? don't know yet Subs: 2 Phoenix Gold Elite.12D4 Subs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T2500.1 Mids and Highs: Phoenix Gold Elite.65CS Components Mids and Highs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T400.2 Electrical: Ground Zero GZBP 12.3500X battery under the hood XS Power XE 12-110 battery in the back 180 Amp Alternator OFC 0 awg power/ground/big 3 OFC 4 awg power/ground OFC 8 awg subwoofer wire OFC 10 awg speaker wire Rockford Fosgate Fuses Rockford Fosgate Fuseholders 6x Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 10feet 2x Rockford Fosgate PEQ remote controller Some dual inputs Stinger voltmeter Some parts I'm now waiting on the 0awg and 10awg OFC wire to come thru the mail, then its all complete.. Box is finished just need to wrap it. Thanks to JOE X for the box design!! It's for 2 zv4 12's but i'm hoping it will work fine with the Elite.12's You'll be hearing from me soon, as soon as ive done some more work
  8. I have a R.F. P600.2. For the longest time it was working just fine. Then one day it just stopped. I finally nailed the issue down to the Power Block (Power, Ground, Rem) area. If i lift up on my wires just a little bit the amp turns on with no problem. But it only lasts for a few seconds. I think that i have to re-solder the connections internally. but im not sure...any ideas?
  9. HELP i have been searching around for really good 6.5 components, this truck had memphis audio coaxial speakers in all 4 doors doors already and have been in the truck since 2010 so they are way outdate. I have been buying and trying different brands and models of coaxials 6.5 speakers in my vehicles and so far the alpine type R were the best sounding. I've never bought components and crossovers before, i have always just stuck with coaxial because they are quick and easy replacements. I put a crunch PX-1000.4 amp behind the seat to run my door, RMS at 4 ohm is 75w RMS at 2 ohm is 125w. They got way louder but the sound quality was terrible. What component/coaxial speakers should i go with and what amp should i use to push them? Has anyone heard or tried the Focal R-165s2 6.5 120w rms 2-way components? I also have a Skar Audio VVX-10v3 D4 600w rms 1200w dual 4ohm that i am getting ready to build a box for under the seat or the console. i haven't decided on an amp for it yet, depends on if i just do one 10 or do 2.
  10. I am planning on building a sub box for a RX8, but since the trunk is small, my options are limited. I might use either a single Rockford Fosgate P3 - 10" or 12". But I've heard about 'port noise' and was wondering if my design would make the noise I am using 5/8 MDF The dimensions are in the pic:
  11. Sound System Help

    Hey guys. Ok I just hooked up my sound system and I'm not getting any bass. I have my factory HU and used a line out converter for my RCA hook ups. I double check all my connections and everything checked out. I have 2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D4 subs and theAR3000.2 BOSS Amp. Is there something I'm missing as to why I can't get any bass through my Subs? 2009 Ford Fusion SEL
  12. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ybcae8ab2wk8lpu/AAAv7q56eXz8jgqNPksJ3tlha?dl=0
  13. So I purchased a 04 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain edition just recently and of course the stock sound system had to go lol. Right now the jeep has a 4" lift and some 31" tires on some M/T SideBiter wheels. Tinted 35% all the way around except for windshield which has a 35% 5" strip. Stock Radio (Lame) New Radio Okay here we go Sub box 2 15's in a 7ish cuft box tuned to around 30.5ish hertz. Kind of messy lol 2 american bass HD 15s dual 2 ohm Okay so I still got tons of work to do lol should have way more pics tomorrow. Right now the sub box has about 1/2 a gallon worth of fiberglass resin and all corners and joints where wood meets wood have 2 layers of fiberglass and to top it all off I bed lined the whole inside of the sub box.
  14. Hi, I am new here and am currently installing a new system into my car. I just wanted to ask if it is ok to screw a amp directly into the metal chassis of the car (I know that there is not a gas tank behind it). This is the same part that the amp is grounded to. I just wanted to ask because I got a amp that once would not come out of protection unless it was not screwed into the car. The amp I am working with is a P400x4 running at 2 ohms. Thanks! -Josh
  15. Getting back into car audio a little bit and was curious about something. Currently I am using in my setup a Rockford 360.3 processor and a Prime R400-4D amp active setup on my front stage 2-way components. Sounds really good, I can not complain. Prior to that I was running a Punch P500-2 on my front stage using passive crossovers and the 360.3 processor. I started looking around at other amp options now that I am confident in the active setup. I started looking at brands like McIntosh, Zapco, Arc Audio, Nakamichi, also the RF Power series, etc that are well known for SQ products. Both newer and older. Then I started looking at the older RF A series like the 600a4 and the 800a4 that were made in the USA. THE MAIN QUESTION Anyone that work on amps or maybe have more knowledge about amps then most able to chime in on amp quality today vs say the late 90's early 2000's when it comes to sound quality and build components? My biggest hang up may be nostalgia vs facts. Thinking that the RF 600a4 is just a better build then say going with the newer T600-4. When my guts is saying newer technology, cost in materials being lower, the newer products should be better.
  16. Alright so this is my first topic started on SMD so bear with me. I've been watching builds on here for the past couple years as a bystander, meanwhile doing alot of my own and I thought it was time to get in on the benefits of showing what you got and get input from other Car Audio Fanatics! This build is my personal truck that Ive had for about 4 years. 2003 GMC Sierra crew cab 2500HD with a vortech 8.1L. As for audio upgrades Ive been through many different set up's gradually building up to this, but this set up is so I can figure out where I can go bigger as far as subs and amps. Here is what we have so far for audio 2003 GMC Sierra w/ 8.1L Alpine INE-S920HD 3 sets of Rockford T2 6.5's 2 sets of Rockford T2 5.25's 1 Rockford 360.3 2 Boston acoustics spg555 subs in 5cu.ft ported box tuned to 36Hz 1 ea. Rockford t2500.1Bdcp,t600.4, and a t400.4 2 Xs power d3400's, and 2 Xs power d2700's LOT's of RF 1/0 power and ground recently added some SHCA 1/0 as well! DC Power 300amp alt 1 SMD VM-1 Rebuild/ truck change...2004 GMC Sierra w/ Duramax!! pg 19. Other upgrades 2 DC 5k's 4 DC XL 10's 2 DCPower 300spx alt's 2 XS D3400's and 3 D2700's All SHCA 1/0 wire and 16awg speaker wire 4 RF T2 6.5 comp sets 2 RF T2 5.25 comp sets 1 RF t1000.4AD 1 RF t600.4 RF 360.3 processor LOT's of SMD Meter's plenty of custom fabrication ] These are some 4" off road HID's I bought and fit to my factory bumper. Lighting is terrible where I live so having limo tint makes night visibility very bad, so I threw these in so they automaticaly come on in reverse but they are also on a relay to a flip switch so I can turn them on when I want. So tailgaters beware these are freaking bright!! They can light up a few blocks to say the least, I flipped them on when a buddie of mine was following and he had to come to a complete stop because they blinded him so bad. He was pretty pissed off ! Ill post some better pics when the truck is done so you can see how good they light up ]/URL]
  17. The Power 1000c or Power 1000 MOSFET was Rockford Fosgate's top of the line amplifier offering from approx. 1990-1994. Earlier models of the 1000 were available in black or custom colors via the Perfect Interface division. The 1000c is one beautiful amplifier! It's retail cost was $2699 USD and was rated to deliver 150x4 at 4 ohms or 500x2 at 4 ohms. Only a dream amp for most people, I was fortunate enough to get my hands on one a few years ago. Let's check out the Amp Dyno test and see if the 26yr old amp can meet it's rated power... See my YouTube Playlist of Power 1000 Videos here
  18. Hello everyone! New to this particular forum. I am looking to replace my old Rockford Fosgate T1 10D4 with something new. I ran the T1 for a long long time then stopped. I just don't feel it hitting in my chest like I remember. So hence the need to upgrade. I am running a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500x1d. Birth sheet says 633 RMS so real world I'm estimating 560 RMS. I have seen the SA-10 rated at 500 RMS but I've seen conflicting details. I do not want to under power this sub. I know the sd.3 is supposed to be more SQ based and has an rms rating of 500 rms. Obviously I would like whichever speaker I decide to have good SQ but I also want to feel it in my chest. I miss that feeling and watching everything in my truck shake. Any opinions or advice in either direction would be much appreciated. Thank you
  19. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  20. Just wondering if I could get some help with an enclosure that I would like to build. Starting off, will admit that I am fairly new to building boxes and need lots of help. Currently I have two Rockford Fosgate P3's powered by a fosgate prime 1200 watt in a prefab box Listen to mostly rap, g-eazy, rae sremmurd, 21 savage, that kinda of stuff. Max dimensions that I could build is H- 17in W- 37 in D- 20 in Wondering what would be the best tuning for the subs and how I would achieve this with an aero port? And what dimension would work best for building this box?
  21. hey Im building a box for a single t2 13. im planning to follow the recommended specs for the box in the owners manual. (ported) My problem lies with the port length spec it is longer than the box is deep? do i just 90 it 3 inches from the back and continue it till i reach a tolal port length of 20.5? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/knowledge.aspx?kbsrc=http://rftech.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/rftech.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=1187&p_li=&p_topview=1 thanks for any help
  22. I change things a lot. I call it a hobby more than a project with a goal. I will try to find some old pics to post first to show some of how things have come along before posting the current system.
  23. Hey guys, I’m a 24yo guy from the netherlands so sorry for my bad english. This will be my very first audio build, so i’m a noob in this and hope you guys have some pointers for me. Edit: The car with 93 sq.ft of Silent coat sound deadener and 65 sq.ft of Standartplast isolation so far So the plan is: HU: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs: 4 Sundown Audio Zv-4 15’s in a 4th order wall Amps: 4 Rockford Fosgate Power T2500.1 Mids: 4 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 6,5’’ PPS4-6 Amps: 2 Rockford Fosgate Power T400.2 Tweeters: 4 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 1’’ PP4-NT Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T400.4 Electrical: Optima Yellow top up front 8 Optima Red top’s in the back 200 Amp Alternator (maybe two) 0 awg power/ground/big 3 8 awg subwoofer wire 10 awg speaker wire 11 Hollywood energetic Fuseholders 6 Rockford Fosgate Fuseholders 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA y-splitters 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 20feet 2 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 3feet 3 Rockford Fosgate PEQX3 remote controllers I’m still in the fase of collecting parts before i start the build and since money is tight it’s gonna take a while.. Parts i already got: - 3 Rockford Fosgate T2500.1 amps - 2 Rockford Fosgate T400.2 amps - Rockford Fosgate T400.4 amp - 4 Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6 mids - 2 Rockford Fosgate PP4-NT super tweeters - 5 Rockford Fosgate fuseholders - 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA y-splitters - 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 20feet - 2 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 3feet - 2 Rockford Fosgate PEQX3 remote controllers - Audison voltmeter - 130feet 10 awg speaker wire - 100feet 0 awg power/ground cable - Lots of 0 awg ring terminals - Optima Yellow top - 33 sq.ft of Silent coat multilayer extra sound deadener - 34 sq.ft of Ground zero convoluted foam - 95 sq.ft of Standartplast StP spl04 isolation foam - Small stuff Amps Two tweets Mids RCA's Fuseholders Remote controles 50feet of 0 gauge 130feet of 10 gauge Voltmeter Yellow top And here are some pictures of how i plan on the wiring.. Maybe some pointers? Thanks in advance! Power/ground Remote RCA’s
  24. Hello all! Been a while since I have been on the forums so I am coming back with a treat for everyone! This is going to be my demo machine. Big shout out to Trevor D, Mike Martinez, and Frank Dogg, couldn't build it without you guys. Thanks goes out to #TeamBassdrop The build consists of: Vehicle: 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Enclosure: 3:1 ratio 4th. 11 sealed 33 ported Subs: Custom FI Car Audio BL 15's (6) Mids and Highs: Ampere Audio Dream Series ( Four 6.5", Four 1" tweeters) per door. Sub Amp: Ampere Audio 8.0 TFE Mids and Highs amps: Ampere 150.4 Wire: Sky High, Hand Build RCA's Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS Dedicated Sub Amp Electrical: 2 Mechman 370 6 phase hairpin alts, 36 3000f Blue Maxwell Caps, MLA controlling the 2 mechmans. 1 Northstar NSB31 and stock alt running the car and mids/highs amp
  25. Decided to throw my pioneer AVH-P4300DVD in the new truck, I have more plans also but this will be a slow build. I just pulled the trim about 5 min ago. I'll report back when I'm done For anyone who hasn't seen the truck Stock radio This trim is a pain in the ass I'll post back here when I'm done, working on it now