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Found 169 results

  1. Hey guys I'm finally doing videos and updates of all the things I've been doing to my car over the last few years. I stumbled into the world of car audio a little over a year ago so im still learning. Its nice to have a community of intelligent people that I can bounce some ideas off. Let me know what you think! Teaser Video:
  2. I am planning on building a sub box for a RX8, but since the trunk is small, my options are limited. I might use either a single Rockford Fosgate P3 - 10" or 12". But I've heard about 'port noise' and was wondering if my design would make the noise I am using 5/8 MDF The dimensions are in the pic:
  3. Hey guys. Ok I just hooked up my sound system and I'm not getting any bass. I have my factory HU and used a line out converter for my RCA hook ups. I double check all my connections and everything checked out. I have 2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D4 subs and theAR3000.2 BOSS Amp. Is there something I'm missing as to why I can't get any bass through my Subs? 2009 Ford Fusion SEL
  4. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ybcae8ab2wk8lpu/AAAv7q56eXz8jgqNPksJ3tlha?dl=0
  5. So I purchased a 04 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain edition just recently and of course the stock sound system had to go lol. Right now the jeep has a 4" lift and some 31" tires on some M/T SideBiter wheels. Tinted 35% all the way around except for windshield which has a 35% 5" strip. Stock Radio (Lame) New Radio Okay here we go Sub box 2 15's in a 7ish cuft box tuned to around 30.5ish hertz. Kind of messy lol 2 american bass HD 15s dual 2 ohm Okay so I still got tons of work to do lol should have way more pics tomorrow. Right now the sub box has about 1/2 a gallon worth of fiberglass resin and all corners and joints where wood meets wood have 2 layers of fiberglass and to top it all off I bed lined the whole inside of the sub box.
  6. Hi, I am new here and am currently installing a new system into my car. I just wanted to ask if it is ok to screw a amp directly into the metal chassis of the car (I know that there is not a gas tank behind it). This is the same part that the amp is grounded to. I just wanted to ask because I got a amp that once would not come out of protection unless it was not screwed into the car. The amp I am working with is a P400x4 running at 2 ohms. Thanks! -Josh
  7. Getting back into car audio a little bit and was curious about something. Currently I am using in my setup a Rockford 360.3 processor and a Prime R400-4D amp active setup on my front stage 2-way components. Sounds really good, I can not complain. Prior to that I was running a Punch P500-2 on my front stage using passive crossovers and the 360.3 processor. I started looking around at other amp options now that I am confident in the active setup. I started looking at brands like McIntosh, Zapco, Arc Audio, Nakamichi, also the RF Power series, etc that are well known for SQ products. Both newer and older. Then I started looking at the older RF A series like the 600a4 and the 800a4 that were made in the USA. THE MAIN QUESTION Anyone that work on amps or maybe have more knowledge about amps then most able to chime in on amp quality today vs say the late 90's early 2000's when it comes to sound quality and build components? My biggest hang up may be nostalgia vs facts. Thinking that the RF 600a4 is just a better build then say going with the newer T600-4. When my guts is saying newer technology, cost in materials being lower, the newer products should be better.
  8. Alright so this is my first topic started on SMD so bear with me. I've been watching builds on here for the past couple years as a bystander, meanwhile doing alot of my own and I thought it was time to get in on the benefits of showing what you got and get input from other Car Audio Fanatics! This build is my personal truck that Ive had for about 4 years. 2003 GMC Sierra crew cab 2500HD with a vortech 8.1L. As for audio upgrades Ive been through many different set up's gradually building up to this, but this set up is so I can figure out where I can go bigger as far as subs and amps. Here is what we have so far for audio 2003 GMC Sierra w/ 8.1L Alpine INE-S920HD 3 sets of Rockford T2 6.5's 2 sets of Rockford T2 5.25's 1 Rockford 360.3 2 Boston acoustics spg555 subs in 5cu.ft ported box tuned to 36Hz 1 ea. Rockford t2500.1Bdcp,t600.4, and a t400.4 2 Xs power d3400's, and 2 Xs power d2700's LOT's of RF 1/0 power and ground recently added some SHCA 1/0 as well! DC Power 300amp alt 1 SMD VM-1 Rebuild/ truck change...2004 GMC Sierra w/ Duramax!! pg 19. Other upgrades 2 DC 5k's 4 DC XL 10's 2 DCPower 300spx alt's 2 XS D3400's and 3 D2700's All SHCA 1/0 wire and 16awg speaker wire 4 RF T2 6.5 comp sets 2 RF T2 5.25 comp sets 1 RF t1000.4AD 1 RF t600.4 RF 360.3 processor LOT's of SMD Meter's plenty of custom fabrication ] These are some 4" off road HID's I bought and fit to my factory bumper. Lighting is terrible where I live so having limo tint makes night visibility very bad, so I threw these in so they automaticaly come on in reverse but they are also on a relay to a flip switch so I can turn them on when I want. So tailgaters beware these are freaking bright!! They can light up a few blocks to say the least, I flipped them on when a buddie of mine was following and he had to come to a complete stop because they blinded him so bad. He was pretty pissed off ! Ill post some better pics when the truck is done so you can see how good they light up ]/URL]
  9. The Power 1000c or Power 1000 MOSFET was Rockford Fosgate's top of the line amplifier offering from approx. 1990-1994. Earlier models of the 1000 were available in black or custom colors via the Perfect Interface division. The 1000c is one beautiful amplifier! It's retail cost was $2699 USD and was rated to deliver 150x4 at 4 ohms or 500x2 at 4 ohms. Only a dream amp for most people, I was fortunate enough to get my hands on one a few years ago. Let's check out the Amp Dyno test and see if the 26yr old amp can meet it's rated power... See my YouTube Playlist of Power 1000 Videos here
  10. Hello everyone! New to this particular forum. I am looking to replace my old Rockford Fosgate T1 10D4 with something new. I ran the T1 for a long long time then stopped. I just don't feel it hitting in my chest like I remember. So hence the need to upgrade. I am running a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500x1d. Birth sheet says 633 RMS so real world I'm estimating 560 RMS. I have seen the SA-10 rated at 500 RMS but I've seen conflicting details. I do not want to under power this sub. I know the sd.3 is supposed to be more SQ based and has an rms rating of 500 rms. Obviously I would like whichever speaker I decide to have good SQ but I also want to feel it in my chest. I miss that feeling and watching everything in my truck shake. Any opinions or advice in either direction would be much appreciated. Thank you
  11. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  12. Just wondering if I could get some help with an enclosure that I would like to build. Starting off, will admit that I am fairly new to building boxes and need lots of help. Currently I have two Rockford Fosgate P3's powered by a fosgate prime 1200 watt in a prefab box Listen to mostly rap, g-eazy, rae sremmurd, 21 savage, that kinda of stuff. Max dimensions that I could build is H- 17in W- 37 in D- 20 in Wondering what would be the best tuning for the subs and how I would achieve this with an aero port? And what dimension would work best for building this box?
  13. hey Im building a box for a single t2 13. im planning to follow the recommended specs for the box in the owners manual. (ported) My problem lies with the port length spec it is longer than the box is deep? do i just 90 it 3 inches from the back and continue it till i reach a tolal port length of 20.5? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/knowledge.aspx?kbsrc=http://rftech.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/rftech.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=1187&p_li=&p_topview=1 thanks for any help
  14. I change things a lot. I call it a hobby more than a project with a goal. I will try to find some old pics to post first to show some of how things have come along before posting the current system.
  15. Hey guys, I’m a 24yo guy from the netherlands so sorry for my bad english. This will be my very first audio build, so i’m a noob in this and hope you guys have some pointers for me. Edit: The car with 93 sq.ft of Silent coat sound deadener and 65 sq.ft of Standartplast isolation so far So the plan is: HU: Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs: 4 Sundown Audio Zv-4 15’s in a 4th order wall Amps: 4 Rockford Fosgate Power T2500.1 Mids: 4 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 6,5’’ PPS4-6 Amps: 2 Rockford Fosgate Power T400.2 Tweeters: 4 Rockford Fosgate Punch Pro 1’’ PP4-NT Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T400.4 Electrical: Optima Yellow top up front 8 Optima Red top’s in the back 200 Amp Alternator (maybe two) 0 awg power/ground/big 3 8 awg subwoofer wire 10 awg speaker wire 11 Hollywood energetic Fuseholders 6 Rockford Fosgate Fuseholders 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA y-splitters 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 20feet 2 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 3feet 3 Rockford Fosgate PEQX3 remote controllers I’m still in the fase of collecting parts before i start the build and since money is tight it’s gonna take a while.. Parts i already got: - 3 Rockford Fosgate T2500.1 amps - 2 Rockford Fosgate T400.2 amps - Rockford Fosgate T400.4 amp - 4 Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6 mids - 2 Rockford Fosgate PP4-NT super tweeters - 5 Rockford Fosgate fuseholders - 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA y-splitters - 6 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 20feet - 2 Rockford Fosgate RCA’s 3feet - 2 Rockford Fosgate PEQX3 remote controllers - Audison voltmeter - 130feet 10 awg speaker wire - 100feet 0 awg power/ground cable - Lots of 0 awg ring terminals - Optima Yellow top - 33 sq.ft of Silent coat multilayer extra sound deadener - 34 sq.ft of Ground zero convoluted foam - 95 sq.ft of Standartplast StP spl04 isolation foam - Small stuff Amps Two tweets Mids RCA's Fuseholders Remote controles 50feet of 0 gauge 130feet of 10 gauge Voltmeter Yellow top And here are some pictures of how i plan on the wiring.. Maybe some pointers? Thanks in advance! Power/ground Remote RCA’s
  16. Hello all! Been a while since I have been on the forums so I am coming back with a treat for everyone! This is going to be my demo machine. Big shout out to Trevor D, Mike Martinez, and Frank Dogg, couldn't build it without you guys. Thanks goes out to #TeamBassdrop The build consists of: Vehicle: 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Enclosure: 3:1 ratio 4th. 11 sealed 33 ported Subs: Custom FI Car Audio BL 15's (6) Mids and Highs: Ampere Audio Dream Series ( Four 6.5", Four 1" tweeters) per door. Sub Amp: Ampere Audio 8.0 TFE Mids and Highs amps: Ampere 150.4 Wire: Sky High, Hand Build RCA's Head Unit: Pioneer 80 PRS Dedicated Sub Amp Electrical: 2 Mechman 370 6 phase hairpin alts, 36 3000f Blue Maxwell Caps, MLA controlling the 2 mechmans. 1 Northstar NSB31 and stock alt running the car and mids/highs amp
  17. Decided to throw my pioneer AVH-P4300DVD in the new truck, I have more plans also but this will be a slow build. I just pulled the trim about 5 min ago. I'll report back when I'm done For anyone who hasn't seen the truck Stock radio This trim is a pain in the ass I'll post back here when I'm done, working on it now
  18. Hey all on this forum. I have a debate whether I want to use 2 old school Rockford Fosgate 1001BD power amps to push 2 MTX Audio 9515-44s or instead go for an American Bass PH-4000 MD to push them @ 1ohm. Power consumption isn't really a concern but I want to know if it's worth getting 2 RF amps or just having one amp to push them both.
  19. So i recently purchased the Rockford fosgate RF-BLD line driver. First things first expanding my knowledge i did some research about the difference between balanced and unbalanced systems being this line driver had this option. In my application i would clearly be doing a unbalanced system being my RCAs just have 1 signal wire and ground wire running around it. So unbalanced it is being i would need a 3 wire (2 signal and 1 ground) to run balanced. So i believe i understand that part of it but any more input or info would be appreciated... So what part i am questioning is setting the gains to match the amps input voltage and what the voltage indicators are telling me. It shows 2.5V 3.5V 5.0V Clip. I set my HU with DD-1 and slowly turn up gain on the line driver until 5.0V illuminates ( for unbalanced system) This is telling me i will be putting out 5V signal to each channel being 10V input total (not clipping) Or is this not correct? Also being i will be running 2 amps either strapped or gain matched would this cut the amps signals input voltage in half? Just trying to get a clear understanding any info or input is appreciated thanks.
  20. Ok, so I built a ported box for my Trans Am. The box sits in the T-Top area and extends to behind the back seat. I ended up with 3.67 cubic feet of air space. This box houses 2 p2d4-12's. I have a 7" long 4" diameter pvc port. The box sounds great and thumps until you get to lower frequencies around 35hz. This is where i start to get a lot of port noise. Box calculators say the box is tuned to around 31-33hz. This is where it gets weird. On Rockford's website they have a box adviser for my sub. It states for a single sub, I should use an 11.8" long 4" diameter pvc port and that would tune the box to 40hz. I input their specs into the calculator I used and it said the port should be 8.9" wtf. I have no idea how this ported stuff works since this is my first ported box. My question is how big does the port need to be to eliminate my port noise? I've experimented with different lengths of ports and its still there. Do I need to go bigger in the diameter department or is it something else? Here a link to Rockford site for my subs.http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/boxadvisor.aspx
  21. For those of you who like this kinda stuff, I documented the build/update process of the mess I re-did... Boat '99 DCB Mach 26 Speed Boat Power - Pfaff 568ci EFI Whippled (3.3L) 949hp on 98 Octane(for you motor heads ) Existing Stereo - 4- IDQ 15D2v2 4th order enclosures 8- RF T1693 (6x9) RF T20001 RF T15004 Kenwood KDC-X997 3 - JL Audio Line Drivers Updates to Existing Stereo- 2 - Alpine PDX-M12's 2 - Alpine PDX-F6's Alpine CDE-HD149BT (Distortion Queen- HAHA) Alpine RF Remote Rux knob Sudo Re-wire of excessive and old wiring to 6x9's, Subs, RCA's, and Subs... The build is complete - heres the start to finish project.... The Boat - Subs/Enclosures - Measuring dimensions for modeling and checking to see if all of them are good...
  22. I was wondering if http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67769_Rockford-Fosgate-P600X4.html would be good for starter SQ amp for mids? I'm new so take it easy on me lol
  23. Rockford Fosgate is giving SMD members a 1st look at technology explanations for their new 2015 T1 Slim 10"/12" subwoofers, Power T2 13"/16" subwoofers, and Power T3 superwoofers. We know SMD members know what goes into making a subwoofer, so we're excited to show this exclusive content explaining the science behind Rockford Fosgate's engineering methods. We encourage and look forward to your constructive feedback.[/size] https://youtu.be/ocu6v1KcmwI
  24. I was curious if anyone had any recommendations as far as obtaining a HO Alt for my 2013 Veloster. I'm currently running stock 90 Amp with a XS D4800 up front as well. The Amp I am running now is a Rockford Prime r1200-1D (Current electrical handles well). I will soon be upgrading to a Soundqubed Q1-2200.2 at 1ohm. I originally had looked at Mechman but they don't seem to handle anything Hyundai, as far as I can tell. I found this one here: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_612/Hyundai-Veloster.htm but i'm not so sure about the brand. Perhaps contacting Singer Alts would be the better choice? Maybe just an additional battery?
  25. Here is the log for my install in my 2009 Honda fit, goes through all the install except detailed pics of the headunit install. Some of this was written as a guide for other fit owners so it may seem weird, just wanted to detail the doors and such so that other fit owners would know what to expect. Here is a picture of the headunit and DMM I put in the dash. Here are a couple pictures of the power wire. This is directly above the gas pedal area. And here is a picture of it in the engine bay. Here is a picture of under the dash as it comes down. Then ran it down the driver side of the car towards the hatch area. Heres a couple more shots of the power wire. This was only what I had on hand for power wire, I am working on getting some 0AWG after completing my BIG 3 which is happening this week, as I am picking up my Shuriken BT35 battery today. I then ran my RCA's, speaker leads and remote lead down the center of the car. I also laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme Liner, this was left over from my wife's SQ stash, this stuff is heavy as it has a layer of lead in it. Here is the breaker just after putting it in and sealing the screw that it mounts with. Next the same area with the cable. Here it is all tightened up. An upper view of the breaker. And finally, the sub amp mounted and the mids and highs amp is on the other seat back in the picture below the sub amp picture. I retained use of my cars child seat features by mounting the amp high enough to clear the bracket. Door Removal, First is this panel it simply prys off, just be careful it is very flexible so it shouldn't tear or break on you. Next here is the door panel with that piece removed exposing the wires for locks/windows and the holding screw. Now other than the snap in pins around the door panel this is the only screw holding it to the door itself. Next we have the wiring harness for the locks/windows, its a standard push tab clip type of harness. After that you only have the door pull itself which is held in by one screw. After you remove this screw you pass the entire door pull through the door panel you can leave it hanging while doing the speaker install.