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  1. Hello all, been a while since I have posted here. I have been out of the audio world for a few years, but I picked up a 4th order box off facebook recently that was built specifically for my 2001 Chevy Tahoe. Got it with all the trim pieces for $150.. I couldn't pass it up. I have attached a few photos if anyone is curious to see what it looks like, they arent the best but you'll get the idea. I have tried searching this forum and google but couldn't find any real specific answers. I am trying to figure out what subs would work best in a 4th order application, I have found that High Qts and low Fs is what I am looking for, but I do not know any specific numbers as far as whats considered to be a "high" Qts number or a "low" Fs number that I should be trying to stay within. Also, any other major factors to consider aside from recommended enclosure size? I am trying to keep this (sort of) a budget build and looking to spend around $100 per sub and have the subs on around 3-4k rms total. I was thinking I would go with the D2 HDS2 15s by Soundqubed as they are $104 a piece. Is this a decent sub for a 4th order application? Fs is 28.93 and Qts is .572. I am not set on this sub, and am currently searching through local facebook groups daily for some used subwoofer options. I know box volume can also play a factor in deciding subs, I dont have the exact dimensions currently but can get them if needed. I have no issue determining the box volume and reading whats recommended for the subwoofer as far as box volume goes. Mainly the Qts and Fs is my concern. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thank you!
  2. *************[Note: Since photobucket decided to nerf everyone's accounts, a lot of the pictures in this thread are gone. I intend to fix all of the posts but it will take quite a while. Photos start on page 29 currently. In the meantime all of the photos are available on Facebook by searching #projectflexington and many are on Instagram under the same hashtag. Thanks for looking and please don't be afraid to comment! ]************* So figure it is time to start a build log for my 6th order wall. Been working on it for a few weeks now. I'll start by posting the equipment I'm using for the build. Electrical: Batteries: 2 nsb170fts and 2 stinger group 31s: 3 banks of super caps: 2 singer 320amp alternators (these came with the truck, I'm currently in the process of redoing the bracket to strengthen it and add a tensioner but I'll elaborate later): 4+ spools of skyhigh 1/0, knukonceptz 4/0 ofc for alternators (will post pictures later) Terminals, marine grade ring terminals lugs, properly crimped with double wall adhesive lined heat shrink: Subs are 2 sundown x15s rev 1(will be rebuilding for level 6 18s at a later date): Sub Amp, kicker warhorse: Head unit and tweeters, Sony dsx-s210x and 4x Earthquake Screamers, 1.5" 150wrms per pair silk Dome tweeters with replaceable voice coils: Mid bass, 4x dayton audio 10" pa woofers, 300rms each: Mids are tbd, probably 2 8" midrange speakers. Lots of Baltic birch: If you enjoy, please comment!
  3. I´ve built and tested over 50 boxes on this explorer since i bought it on 2010, i´ve had a lot of fun doing it, broke tons of records around here and also gave me the knowledge to design a lot of boxes for competitors and even world champions that also own the same awesome truck that i have, but, spending that amount of money, time and effort isn´t practical for me now, so, it´s time for me to build something loud ,low and fun in there without caring At ALL about numbers Car: 1998 4 doors 2 gen Ford Explorer, she´s called the Sexplorer btw lol Electrical: Mechman 270A alternator, XS Power D3100 on front, 4 northstar nsb 110ft on the back for the moment, 2 soundquest 0 GA cca runs for the moment, the plan is, to add 4-8 runs , a second alternator wich i already have at pipo sanchez home and 14v batteries in a few months. Amplifier (subs): Loudforce 10K wired at 1 ohm for the moment, 2 10ks at .5 ohms in a few months Amplifier (mids) : Soundigital 8K at 1 ohm Amplifier (highs) : 2 loudforce lfa-1504s Mids/highs: not sure yet, but tons of them Subwoofers: 8 loudforce 8515s 750 watts 3" VC a piece for the moment, 8 9015s 3200 watts in a few months Box: 4th order bandpass wall , 13 cubic feet sealed / 24 cubic feet ported, port area and tuning will be tested until i found what it works the best, mad props to Dave Leib (strongmandesigns on this forum) , coty eager, dylan kirby, scott bowman, zaim nayor, keith miller and jared gibson for all the inputs, without them, i wouldnt picked up my mind on what sizes i needed to use, i spent more than a week designing this box, wasnt easy at all, specially since i didn´t want to build a shell, wanted a box that i could slide in thru the hatch. THE GOAL!! Easy, want to be able to play a huge bandwith, and of course, play LOW as hell without loosing output on higher frequencies, since 4th order bandpasses tend to have 2 peaks, im trying to get a 23-27 hz peak and a 40-45 hz peak been the higher peak the strongest one, we´ll see!
  4. So I have been trying to calculate my first 4th order for 2 orion hcca 10s. I have started with having a seperate sealed chamber for each sub with 0.625 cuft each and a common ported chamber of 2.5 cuft tuned to 45hz. I was just wondering how much port area I would need? Also if the airspace would be fine? Also I went for a 2:1 ratio since that was pretty common, what would be the advantage of going to a bigger ratio like a 3:1? Ive heard these subs like smaller enclosures so I didnt want to get to big. Thanks!
  5. So I'm trying to design a box for my 2 zv3 12's, i have installed 2 bucket seats in the rear of my 02 chevy pickup, and things have changed a ton in that truck since i last posted here. I plan on doing 2 zv3's in a ported box in between the 2 seats, almost like a tall center console. i found a 3D model of a zv3 12 on a different fourm, but i cant get the person to respond with a link to a download. Im just trying to get an accurate look of the box, and also having a model of the sub would be cool
  6. I'm trying to figure out how many cubes and what to tune each side of a 6th order bandpass for a single sundown zv4 15 and how many sqin's the ports should be. It's a d2 rev2 and will be ran on a shark 3500.1 amp. Its going in the extended cab of my 2004 f150. I want it musical and loud lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I new to building bandpass boxes and I could really use the help. Thanks!!
  7. I'm looking at building my first 4th order for a sundown zv4 rev2 15"d2. I have experience building custom boxes but have never built a bandpass. I'm not sure on what ratio to go with. I like lows but would really like something musical. It's going in a extended cab f150 powered by a shark [email protected] Could someone tell me how many cubes for the sealed and ported side and how many sqin my port should be and what's the best to tune it at? Any info is greatly appreciated!
  8. I've seen quite a few write-ups on 4th order ratios and what not, but am struggling to find anything on 6th orders. what would a 1:1 compared to a 2:1, 3:1, etc. ratio 6th order sound like? Thanks!
  9. Charles Phillips

    Look over my 4th order specs

    Hey! I'm working on a build log for my friends box that I'm designing, and I just wanted some who's designed some of these (especially isobaric) to take a gander. I wrote my own 4th order calculator in Java and posted it before I figured out there already was one online (fail). The specs are as follows: Enclosure type: Isobaric 4th Order Bandpass Subwoofers: 2 SoundQubed HDS-2.110 600WRMS F(s): 31.63 Hz Q(ts): 0.519 V(as): 1.97 ft^3 Vf: 0.52 ft^3 Vr: 1.101 ft^3 Qbp: 0.71 S Factor: 0.7 Fb: 43.53 Hz Desired F3(L): 26.8 Hz Passband: 26.8 - 70.72 Hz Gain: 0 dB Also the port specs were kind of crazy. The minimum size was 11.24" diameter and 78.84" long. I'd like a shorter port but the only way to do that is decrease diameter which increases air speed and might cause port chuffing. Thanks a ton!!!
  10. I was reading up on 6th order bandpass boxes and I ran across some patents. I found a lot of interesting design information in these patents, but no calculations. Whats the point you ask? To understand better how bandpass boxes function. Knowledge is power. Most of the patents have a lot of blah blah blah near the beginning of each patent since justifying the patent is first and foremost. Somewhere past halfway, each patent lists some design tips, tricks, rules, etc that are great and thats where the interesting portions begin. I recommend to have the attached pictures (at the beginning of the patent) opened on a second screen so that you can quickly reference the numbers identifying each component and its importance in each system. 4th order: Parallel tuned 6th order (Bose): Series tuned 6th order: Series and parallel-series tuned Nth order (8th and higher): Helmholtz Resonance, the concept that drives ported enclosures and all 4th, 6th, etc enclosures: I've been reading through these for a few days now trying to understand whats going on with these more complicated arrangements and I think some of you will benefit from the information in these patents. Enjoy.
  11. I am going to be building my first spl vehicle, and the guy i work with is suggesting that i build a 6th order. now i have looked online and have asked around a little bit but i wanted to get a few more opinions on the matter. originally i was just gonna build a high tuned aeroport box but he is claiming i should get +12db from using a bandpass? now i would have thought that if this was true every person would be doing bandpass. can anyone shed a little light on this situation for me?
  12. I am hoping someone can explain bandpass and how the port tuning works. I recently had a friend give me a bandpass box with a kicker cvr 12d2 in it... the box measures 15"h 20"w 8. 5"d both sealed and ported side having these measurements. 2 tube ports 3.875" What i don't understand is way it sounds for the ports it has??? According to every port calculator iv used its tuned at 95hz! Am i measuring port frequency wrong or does bandpass create a different port frequency that is measured differently. Also can someone explain bandpass and how you tune one. I AM ASKING, CAUSE THIS BOX SOUNDS AMAZING DESPITE THIS QUESTIONABLE PORT FREQUENCY!
  13. Andrew Storlie

    new box help

    so ive built alot of nice boxes but never got into the 4th and 6th order stuff, and i want to, i just got a good deal on a mint 12" alpine type x and i wanna experiment with it... can someone help me learn how to design 4th and 6th order boxes. or kinda show me how its done and then i can learn by doing it. more or less how tuning goes and how box size effect it all pictures are always helpful, and links thanks
  14. Decided to make a seperate thread for this build as it does not really have anything to do with my current big build here: here are the posts from that thread: 6th Order Bandpass Enclosure for Alpine Type R 12 So, for my first side project! I recently aquired an Alpine Type R 12 very cheap. Came in an OBCON vented box. Decided to have some fun with it. I've always wanted to try a 6th order, and this is the perfect time since I'm waiting for the good stuff. At first I was planning on building an ABC box but decided to give a 6th order a chance (can always convert it to an abc later.) My goal is to get good response from 20hz to 60hz+. According to winisd, this box design should meet those requirements. Here is the response graph compared to a standard 40hz ported box: This is the fun part. The cone excursion graph is the fun part. 1000watts and keeping control down to 22hz! Quick sketchup. Model not finished, but it gives you an idea of the layout. Wood is cut and ready, I'll be working on assembling it tonight. 2 4" precision ports per side, externally mounted. Rear chamber ports will be around 33" long and front chamber will be around 15"
  15. been awhile since i posted last, so here goes.. system run down 99 explorer sport 4.0 4x4 1 0ga power run to the back big 3 done in 0ga 1000ca battery up front optima yellow top in back grounds are to chassis with 0ga wire 2- brz1700.1 amps running 1 ohm per amp 2- soundqubed hds315 dual 2ohm 8cf box with a small octoport ( free box to start out with ) pionner avh280bt head unit pac lc-1 bass knob we did a 147.1db and clamped at 711rms per amp at 43hz. we did that on stock 95amp alt and since then installed a H/O 250amp. by ear seems a little louder, clamped it and is at 768rms at 14.5v on rear battery so gained a little.. have skyhigh 2/0 coming to replace the 0ga power run, hoping to get more voltage to the rear and up the rms again, will see come next weekend.. our delema is horrible box rise i was told so we are not getting close to rated from our amps. did a clamp test at .5ohm and got 646rms. have the plans and cut sheet for a spec box for these subs but am wondering a box change/ more port area could help the box rise and gain us rms? we are just starting out on the audio scene.. we have plans on building a 4th order b pillar wall and am curious on something. we could do a 4 hds315 4th order with our current amps. friend said it should be louder because of more cone area, or do a 2 hds315 4th order with a cab1600.1 or ta1.3000d amp at .5ohm.. curious on thoughts as we are doing our 2nd comp oct 1st.. and we are aiming for a 150. so spec ported box on more power, 4th with 2 subs on more power, or 4 15s in a 4th with our current amps and see how it goes..
  16. I've been out of the game for about 10 years now, but used to do some competitions and build stereos for friends. So I'm trying to relearn what I used to know, and possibly expand my horizons a little with some new stuff. As the title states I'm considering a couple options for my 2006 Subaru WRX. Unfortunately the trunk opening isn't huge, so I can only finagle about a 3 cu.ft. box into the trunk opening. However, if I built 2 separate boxes, I may be able to get closer to 3.5 cu. ft. by being able to slide them in separately. My dilemma here comes, that the main goal is to seal everything off from the trunk, but trying to face the subs and ports forward is going to be near impossible with about 32" of width in the seat opening (can't really go wider than 30" with one box and still be able to slide it in). I guess finishing assembly in the car could be an option, but since I do race/auto-x every so often, it would be ideal to be removable. SO, on to the meaty stuff. The subs I'm considering are either 2 12" RE Audio SEX V2, or 1 12" RE Audio SXX V2... My initial intent was one big box with a divider and everything facing forward. Well, since I found out I'll be pushing the limits to even get close to 1.7 cu. ft. per sub (more realistically, 1.5 cu. ft., after account for port and sub), I started to wonder if just doing one beefier sub may be a better option. This is when I remembered that 4th order BP boxes exist, and I always wanted to try one. This would also be ideal if I could line up the port with the ski hole in the middle of the rear seat, allowing me to keep the seat in place if I choose. Either way, there will be a board sealing off the trunk that I would bolt the box to (with an opening for the port, of course). I'm going for SQL here: I don't need all out bass like I used to, but I still want to be one-up on the trunk-thumpers (hence sealing off the trunk, which is practically made of tin on my car). I figure with this bigger sub in one properly built box, even if that means just a regular vented design, that I could be as loud or close enough to the 2 12's in mediocre-sized boxes. I'll stop rambling for now, hopefully this is enough to get a solid conversation going. Any more info needed please ask. I would love to make this decision soon as the bug has bitten me hard and I'm ready to get back to building. Thanks! -Ian-
  17. Hello, I just want to introduce you build for my friend. It consists of: 2x Sundown X15 2x Crescendo BC3500D 1x Crescendo Concerto C1100.4 1x ARC audio 4ch (dont know the exact model) 4x Crescendo PWX 10 4x Crescendo FT1 Tweeters 1x Powercell 4000 battery in front (we do the 3 big upgrades of course ) 2x CZ audio 115Ah batteries in back 2x Exide AGM 50Ah in the back - running on stock 120Ah alternator - Pionner 2DIN radio The sundown´s are in 6th Bandpass enclosure (4th was planned and builded but it wasnt what we want so we upgrade it to 6th ) tuned from 18hz running on two bridget Crescendo BC 3500D (metered over 5kW and 0,85ohm+ impedance in bridge - 0,425ohm on each amp) Some scores (metered on the front window) 147db @ 20hz driver window opened 150,4db @ 30hz sealed 154db @ 30hz driver window opened Here are more pics from build: And here some youtube videos:
  18. A little info- I'm 18 years old, car audio is what i love doing and this was all built by me with the help of my dad on occasion. It took a lot of saving and planning and I'm still saving for subs and amps and more batteries right now. First of all, the turd this build is going in to. 2001 Explorer XLT 5.0 The plan is 6 Crossfire C7 15s on a Crossfire XS 8K.
  19. So i recently got a pair of the new sundown E8 v.3 subs, dual 2 ohm. I've been messin around on winisdpro and i've come up with a parallel tuned 6th order for these babies with the objective of higher efficiency at higher freq over a conventional low tuned ported box. These woofers also appear to be highly oriented for ported enclosures according to the EBP so i assume they wont do too bad in a 6th order. *I'm curious to see what other more experienced bandpass experts have to say about my design in terms of its port placement, cu ft ratio, port area, whether its COMPLETELY WRONG BRO!!#!, ect. *I don't care for responses like "ur gonna blow ur shit up" and "fuck 6th orders" by people who must have been abused by 6th orders in their early childhood, im curious about sixth orders and i wanna start somewhere so don't even bother brocephalopod. *really just lookin for new knowledge and advice on 6th orders with 8 inch woofers which seem to be quite rare. -------------------here's teh data: - front chamber is .53 cu ft tuned to 66 hz w/ 16 sq in port area - rear chamber is 1.49 cu ft tuned to 36 hz w/ 24 sq in port area - subs will be inside rear chamber firing into front chamber - ports are facing opposite directions, if looking straight on at woofers, rear chamber port opens left, front chamber port opens right. (donno if this matters, i just didn't want the two ports directly next to each other so i put em on opposite ends) heres a link to my sketch up download: the gain in winisdpro showed as following from 30-80 hz 5 hz interval with a 25hz butterworth infrasonic filter and 100hz butterworth lowpass filter enabled: 30 (-8.1db) 35 (-.52db) 40 (1.2db) 45 (1.7db) 50 (2.4db) 55 (3.2db) 60 (3.6db) 65 (3.3db) 70 (2.4db) 75 (.89db) 80 (-.9db) tks
  20. So I didn't know where to drop this topic so here it is... But im wanting to build a blowthrough in my 05' impala. I cant seem to get this figured out right. ive built sealed boxes but never ventured into this type. I got all my base numbers and all but lack the computer programs to make sure its all gonna be where I want. I just got three kickers cvr 10's. if anyone is willing to help id really appreciate it. I can post all the numbers I can work with.
  21. dylan117

    Best box designers?

    hey guys, im looking for some of the best box designers you know of to design me a flat wall for 4 18s. thanks!
  22. dylan117

    4th order tuning?

    hey guys, im wondering how to determine the tuning of a sealed section of a 4th order. i know sealed boxes dont ecactly have a "tuning" but ive heard they have an Fs. so in a 4th order, how do you get one to play really low? like below 20hz. ive also heard its good to tune the ported section to the sealed sections Fs. ive had a good amount of experiance with 4th orders so im just seeing how much of this is true. im wanting to convert my current 6th order wall into a 4th order for 3-4 FI SP4 18s and want it to play down to 20hz or lower. is there a formula for determining the Fs (tuning) of a sealed section of a 4th order? thanks for any input!
  23. This has been a two year build I started in high school, I have finally graduated and I have a small system that is mostly finished. I have a few more plans for it during collage and maybe a big rebuild after collage. The new build has been completed and starts on page 3! Later on I'll even do some fiberglass a-pillars and other cool things! My Current system: -(2) PSI Audio 12's -Soundstream Rubicon 2500 -Soundstream Rubicon 800 5 Channel -Soundstream Mids and Highs -Fosgate P3 Shallow 8" -(2) Kinetic HC600 Batteries -Sky High OFC 0 gauge wire w/ Big 3 -Sky High OCF 12 gauge wire for all the speakers. -Sky High OFC 4 gauge for the subs. -Sky High 14 gauge primary wire for all other electrical connections, -200 Amp HO Alternator -125 sqft of GT Mat 80 Mil Sound deadener. This is my Jeep Cherokee, my first car. As for my system, I'm running two Fosgate HX2 12's with PSI 1000 watt recones. Soundstream Rubicon 2500 bass amp and a Soundstream Rubicon 5.800 for mids and highs. Soundtream mids and highs, Clarion eq, Sony head unit, all Sky High OFC 0 gauge wire, and an HO alternator. As for the build... I did it in a few stages, getting a system to play, and then doing some rebuilding, and then playing it again. I started out two years ago with the original Fosgate HX2's, I built my first box that was about 4.4 cubes ported. It was tuned to around 32Hz but would only play down to around 35Hz so once I had heard a few other systems I knew I had a fail lol. But I did use t-nuts and reinforced the inside of the box! Carpeted it and then wired the subs to 1 ohm for my new amp. I'm still running this amp, two years of hitting hard and it's never let me down! And then did some wiring upgrades...started with Walmart 8 gauge and then jumped to the big stuff!
  24. Hey guys, Figured I'd make a post to announce myself. I'm Drew Jones, I design custom subwoofer enclosures. I operate under Bassahaulic Productions or Bassahaulic Designs. I've been in the audio game a while, I've ran a major car audio shop in the Baton Rouge, Louisiana area for the last 3 years. As well as being apart of one of the loudest car audio Team's in the world Team South for even longer. And yes, I sell them, usually $20/design. Comes with full spec sheet, cut sheet, and if you would like a Sketchup... a Sketchup. lol And yes, I know some people do them for free. But I feel my years of knowledge and loud builds speak for them selves. Below you will see my most recent design I did for someone, as well as quite a few videos of systems I've both designed and built. Non-Wall. Single Cab Chevy. 2 db Drive K9 10"s. 1800w Non-Wall. Dodge Nitro. 3 db Drive K9 12"s. 1 db Drive A7 3500. Walled. PT Cruiser. 2 Fi N3 18"s. 2 RD D9's. Same PT, Non-Walled. 2 SSA ZCON. DD M3a Walled. Isuzu, 6 RF T2 15"s. 3 RF T2500bdCP's..... Loudest Rockford Truck Known to Exist. More Videos of this truck in the 1st reply. I'm new to the Sketchup thing, never really did it before until this week. lol So be easy on me. If you're interested, feel free to PM me. E-Mail me at bassahaulic52 Or Facebook at..
  25. tuned to 33hz. its going into my bedroom for now