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Found 13 results

  1. Work has started..... It has a quad alt set up on it already...... Needs upgrades, but...... This thing is monster huge, many cubes...... Goals are set. Fun will be had. Roof work,... fully boxed, and welded.....with a few cans of foam........ Fully welded.. (and have more to do) This kid doesnt fuck around. stay tuned for more.... its a big project, and will take time..... but,........ its rolling, so to speak
  2. Hey, all! This is my baby. It's a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero that I drove in high school; I recently bought it back from my folks for a couple grand, and its whole purpose is to be destroyed with bass. She's in decent shape for 140k miles. A few years ago, I had a c-pillar wall in this thing with 2 Fi BTL N2 18s on a n AQ3500.1 at .7. It did 152s with garbage electrical, and was super fun. I've always dreamed of walling this thing at the b pillar, so here we go. All I saw here was potential. Time to rip all this shit out. The process has begun. Carpet cut, headliner removed, and roof braces foamed. There's quite a decent amount of space in this bitch. Maaaany more pics to come. Just gotta get them on Imgur. Stay tuned!
  3. DAMN this thing slammed I LIKE IT LOUD!!!! MWSPL FINALS
  4. Let's forget about subs for a second, assume you have amazing subs that can play very low or high. How would you tune a Sub box to play very strong lows? I don't mean "How do you tune a box to a certain freq?" either, I mean "How can I design a box to play low?" I have heard "lots of port area" "less port area" "1 port" "Multiple ports" and many other contradicting answers. And for that matter how do you design a box for a strong high performance? Building tutorials and tips are welcome Once again, NOT ASKING HOW TO TUNE A BOX, this question is about box design and optimization.
  5. I've been watching a lot of Steve's old vids in his Tahoe and it seems that all of the songs that sound good in his truck also sound good in my car. I've gotten a bunch of the songs such as Sweeney Todd, candlelight, some from Rittz and Snows rendition of some nights. Is there any new songs that y'all know of that are around the same fq's. The range is from 28hz to 36hz and NON DECAF. Just want to know some song to go by for demoing for friends.
  6. Alright guys I'm finally starting to work on the Tahoe and figured I'd post all of what I'm putting in it and keep everyone updated with the Build Progress. SYSTEM: - 1 Fi Team15 (Dual 2 Ohm) - BOX: will be designed by RamDesigns (blueprints), not sure the specifics yet. Most likely 7-8 Gross Cu.Ft. for a single 15. - AQ 3500.D Amp (4300 Watt RMS @1ohm, may be wired to .75 ohm sooo more watts?) - Pair of AQ Pro Audio 6.5's - Pair of AQ Supertweeters - AQ 4-120 Amp - VooDoo 0-Gauge Wire (50ft Red / 50ft Blue) - SMD DD1 Distortion/Gain Indicator - Second Skin Alpha Damp - Second Skin Damplifier Pro B-Stock - Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro - 1 XS D3400 (in front) - 2 XS D3100's (in rear)
  7. So guys, something has been brought to my attention. The build I'm gonna be working on is pretty much copying off of "Altima1" on here's build. Anyway, he has over 250sqft of Deadener in his Altima. But also mentioned that he had quite a deal of Luxury Liner Pro by second skin, installed in the trunk and Roof to further dampen the vibrations for his loud Low-End Bass (26-30hz range usually). - Is the Luxury Liner / Any type of Liner material necessary for a Loud Low End build?? Is 2 Layers of Sound Deadener on the metal not enough? I'm using one layer of Second Skin's Alpha Damp for the first layer. Havn't figured out the 2nd yet, probably Second Skin Damplifier. But with those 2 Deadeners combined throughout my vehicle, shouldnt the Low end come through pretty well? Its gonna be a Sealed Off 15 from the Trunk. - Anyone with good knowledge on Sound Dampening is there any advice you could give? - Thanks!
  8. BIGlep

    PSI box design

    Hi so I thought I would share a box design I came up with and try to get some feedback and/or recommendations. This is for a single 15" PSI Platform 2 with HP option. I'm shooting for 4.5 ft^3 net with 65 in^2 slot port area. The box would be tuned to 33 hz and what I would do is make both of the sides of the port double baffle so that in the outer #/4" mdf baffle I could press and glue in threaded inserts. This would let me make and easy attachable port extension that would bring down tuning so that I can experiment and see what I like. If needed I can probably throw together a drawing and upload the picture if needed. This is my first build and I'm trying to make it a lasting good set-up. At first it will probably just be rear facing in by trunk but I plan to seal of my trunk fully and face the box into the cabin so that I don't have trunk rattles, I can use my trunk, and I can look at my bad-ass custom sub while I'm in the car. I'm open to any ideas. Thanks.
  9. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe, currently have 2 Skar Audio VVX 15s on 2K Watts in a 30Hz ported box. I have the subs sitting Up and the Port facing the rear (trunk lid). I plan on getting one or two PSI 18's soon but am having trouble figuring out what to do next. I LOVE LOW NOTES. And just dont feel that the Skar's put out the Lows loud enough (VVX 15 has an FS of 38hz, the PSI P3 18 is 27HZ!). I will be hopefully installing Murder Mat sound deadener soon which im sure will make the lows better, but still, im after LOUDER CLEANER Lows that my whole body can feel while still sounding amazing. I need to ask you guys (especially those with very high-end systems), how do i achieve clean loud lows?? Im aware that Box design is crucial. Would Subs Up Port Up be better for lows? Or having the subs and port both facing forward towards me? Also lets say for a single 18" sub, what Cubic FT should the box be for clean loud lows? Yes, Im pretty noobish at systems but im learning so anyone with advice please feel free to help thanks.
  10. Whats up guys this build is going to be VERY VERY slow. First wall I'm doing by my self and don't have to much time to work on it. Heres some pics of my old wall. Got pretty loud was touch over 54's on music. With this last wall all the available space was not used at wall, didn't follow in for my car's contours or angles, was just a square shaped box that was build in the vehicle. New wall is going to use every bit of space available, looking to squeeze about 24-26 cubes with the shell, from there I'll most likely do a 4th order with the 4 15's. Goal is to be doing the same numbers but about 10-15hz lower and a little personal goal is to break a 150 at 20hz outlaw mic on dash. I could only hope though. Here's some small progress I've made so far. I AM OPEN TO IN SUGGESTIONS. Floor pieces mocked up. Those 2 holes are for the access ports for my fuel pumps. SCREWS Floor in permanently and back piece mocked up Tried using my router to get a copy for the back angled piece. Router was acting on crack. So I scraped it and just used the circular saw. Angle to follow the angle of my seats With this piece. I didn't just want fiberglass holding the angles piece to the floor, or just screwing it in at an angle. Didn't feel like I would get enough contact surface, so I made this little piece to mount to the angled piece. Then that gave me a ton more surface area for glue to wood contact and screws. Plus I'll end up going over it with a few layers of glass anyways. Floor and back piece mounted together. Well thats all I have for now. Gonna be working on it a little here and there. Im in no rush, plus all the down time inbetween lets me have time to think on how im going to do the next stages. I wan't this thing to be solid.
  11. I am a noob at car audio i originaly wated to put subs in my car just to have a little boom but now i have taken it as hobby. I am constantly researching Subwoofers, Amps, Boxes trying to educate myself about the car audio field, so my car dont go up in smoke like my last car(Audi A6). I recently had 2 10's in a ported box(MTX Magnum Bass Package). They were pretty good for 10's but i currently have upgraded to 2 12's (Hifonics HFX12D4) each sub wired down to 2Ohm with a 2 Channel Mosfet Amplifier(Lanzar HTG257) with each sub getting 650wrms at 2Ohms. It Beats but im thinking of porting my box. My first Question would be: 1.) If i port my sealed box with PVC pipe is that a good idea? 2.) Which type port is better Slotted Port or Round PVC Port? 3.) If i do a PVC port a dude on youtube used a tool like this- and i wanna know can you use this tool with a drill like this- ? 4.) I saw some videos on youtube of boxes ported to like 28Hz and i was wandering if its tuned that low can you play regular music and it still hit LOW? 5.) will i have to alter my music in a audio program if i do tune my box to 28Hz? 6.) Is it the lower the Hz the more air its moves , the more Flexxx it does , the harder it hits? 7.) I have seen some huge boxes like 6cubes just for one sub do i have to have a box that big?
  12. Heya! Decided to made little story off my project. First bandpass ever I have made, learned lots off things all way up. What y guys think? Follow build with tonns off pics at and youtube Stuff in car: Alpine 9886r + Alpine h800 + Alpine rux-c800 4pcs Ground Zero 4000dxii amps (wired 0,75ohm each) 12pcs Ground zero rw30spl-extreme subs 8pcs Ground Zero 13.3500 batterys (12volt) 2pcs Ground Zero ha2350XII (front end amps) 8pcs Ground Zero CM 8-4PP-CL mids 4pcs Ground Zero CT 0500-CL tweeters So lets get started, couple off pics . -98 Opel omega, so rusty and *argh*, but this is it where I started. I hope you guys like! More about to come in future! Dont forget to subscribe on facebook and youtube
  13. Hi guys, thought you might want to look at my build since you guys are into walls, unlike Australians. Some parts are copy and paste from an Aussie forum, so stick with it if it doesnt make any sense ... Anyways, i've had a Hyundai Excel (accent to you) walled with 4 18's and a 4kw amp on one PC2150. For such cheap gear, it hit LOW, and did consistant 150's sealed at 32hz. But that took its toll, and between lows and the weight of the wall the car started giving up the ghost; Although i got addicted to that sealed diamond sound, plenty of lows So i needed a new ride, something with more space and more acoustically friendly. This is where Mike (Charger) helped me decide to get a Jackaroo AKA Trooper like him. Was hoping to pick up a 2 door like him, but there were'nt any going, 4 door had to do. After a trip out to some dodgy suburbs and $3k later, i had this driven away with a year of registration; A problem: playing tunes while parked means contorting ones hand over the auto stick Solution: flip out screen Solved: While i was at the hardware store, i grabbed a couple pieces of MDF.... But as i went to take out i felt the urge for a wood-nap. Must be too soft First layer snug Had NFI how to do the roof, i just chucked 2x4 up to give the MDF something to hold onto. After that i went for a trip to the BAD side of town. But as a surprise, rather than someone taking something, they put somethin in: 8 Odyssey PC1700's, not bad for $150 AUD when they retail at $650. Roof on: Working night in my shed, too small