lowsound10 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Oh and about the 0ga-4ga distrobution block, i actually say DO IT! if you want to upgrade to a bigger serious amp at some point in time, you dont want to have to run wire through the car for no reason when you chould have done that in the first place, i say do 0ga through the car and hide it behind a panel or something, and run 4 ga from that to your amp, as well as your 4ga ground. that way, all you have to do if you want to upgrade is get rid of the distro block and replace the ground, alot easier than running wire through the car again. good point!!! ohh thats something that always confused me too. if i run 0 gauge to 4 gauge the amp ground should still be 4 gauge right? alsoo im pretty sure the audiopipe doesnt have internal fuses so how would i go about fusing the power wire? Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BanginOnABudget Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 oh and for the amp man, do you have it yet? if not, this is the cheapest i could find it. http://www.caraudiomix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AP15001D im taking out my passenger seat, battery is disconnected, going to unwire and take out the three amps, take out the 70+ lb box, then the platform so i can crimp 1 wire. Almost as bad as those fegs that put those horns in their grills and roll down the street distorting the block.... 1990 Jeep Cherokee 2 Dr. Big-3 in 0g on Stock Alt. Pioneer 6.5" and 5.25"s temp. until i can afford the new crescendos. Pioneer 6000ub Reciever NO amps at the moment. SA-15 on 1kw coming soon. MSG Me for a free enclosure design!! Flared port kits coming soon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowsound10 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I will post in detail about your questions when I get home in 2 hours ok thanks Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowsound10 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 The thing I don't follow on is that the knob is a bass boost knob. Now with the Audiopipe amp I installed, the knob acted as a gain knob. Turn it to 0, get no output. Turn it to full, get output gradually up to where you set the knob on the amp at. I kept bass boost on the actual amp at 0, set the gain knob on the actual amp with a DMM and a 45hz tone, and used the knob as a remote gain knob. Does anyone actually know if it's a remote gain knob or a remote bass boost knob? Is the sub you bought a D2 or D4 sub? The sub's rated at 1K RMS. If it's a D4, you'll be all set at 800-900 watts reliably out of the 15001d. If it's a D2, you can wire down to 1 ohm and get the full 1K rms (make sure to set your gain accordingly). I always set teh subsonic to about 5 hz below tuning frequency, so somewhere around 30hz should be fine. The 15001d will take 4 gauge power and grounds. 0-gauge to 4-gauge through reducers isn't necessary. Just one run of 4-gauge to the amp and another to a ground near the amp will be fine and will save you from buying more 0-gauge and a distro block. No im talkin bout the knobs on the amp i saw it has bass boost and bass boost frequency? unless im lookin at something wrong here...and its a d2 soo im lookin at giving it everything its got. Alright prolly get some KNU 4 gauge then. AAH ok. The bass boost should stay at 0 and the bass boost frequency should just stay wherever it is when you get the amp. The remote knob that ships with the amp can be mounted up front on your dash or somewhere sneaky (some people mount them where the cigarette lighter is so it looks inconspicuous) and be used to turn up/down the volume of your subs independently of your head unit. If you want to play a song but don't want the subs at full, you can turn down the Audiopipe knob and turn down the subs and leave your door speakers at full volume. Gives you a bit more control over your system, which I'm always a fan of. alrighty yeah i have the rca bass knob now and i like how i can control it when you just wanna chill just turn it down a lil Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowsound10 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 oh and for the amp man, do you have it yet? if not, this is the cheapest i could find it. http://www.caraudiomix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AP15001D No i dont have it yet. and yeah thats the cheeapest!!! thanks!! Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 oh and for the amp man, do you have it yet? if not, this is the cheapest i could find it. http://www.caraudiomix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AP15001D Ooh, you found it a bit cheaper I ordered it from here when I got it: http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopipe-ap15001d-p-1452.html Check both and see what they are with shipping. wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BanginOnABudget Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Oh and about the 0ga-4ga distrobution block, i actually say DO IT! if you want to upgrade to a bigger serious amp at some point in time, you dont want to have to run wire through the car for no reason when you chould have done that in the first place, i say do 0ga through the car and hide it behind a panel or something, and run 4 ga from that to your amp, as well as your 4ga ground. that way, all you have to do if you want to upgrade is get rid of the distro block and replace the ground, alot easier than running wire through the car again. good point!!! ohh thats something that always confused me too. if i run 0 gauge to 4 gauge the amp ground should still be 4 gauge right? alsoo im pretty sure the audiopipe doesnt have internal fuses so how would i go about fusing the power wire? http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-20 just make a cut in the wire less than 16" from the battery, strip both ends of the 0ga, and put em in the fuse holder. for your amp i recomend the 120A fuse. a 120A fuse can handle up to 1728 watts, if you're charging at 14.4v. im taking out my passenger seat, battery is disconnected, going to unwire and take out the three amps, take out the 70+ lb box, then the platform so i can crimp 1 wire. Almost as bad as those fegs that put those horns in their grills and roll down the street distorting the block.... 1990 Jeep Cherokee 2 Dr. Big-3 in 0g on Stock Alt. Pioneer 6.5" and 5.25"s temp. until i can afford the new crescendos. Pioneer 6000ub Reciever NO amps at the moment. SA-15 on 1kw coming soon. MSG Me for a free enclosure design!! Flared port kits coming soon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I will post in detail about your questions when I get home in 2 hours LOL Kranny. "I have all the answers but it'll take me 2 hours to give them to you" wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowsound10 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Oh and about the 0ga-4ga distrobution block, i actually say DO IT! if you want to upgrade to a bigger serious amp at some point in time, you dont want to have to run wire through the car for no reason when you chould have done that in the first place, i say do 0ga through the car and hide it behind a panel or something, and run 4 ga from that to your amp, as well as your 4ga ground. that way, all you have to do if you want to upgrade is get rid of the distro block and replace the ground, alot easier than running wire through the car again. good point!!! ohh thats something that always confused me too. if i run 0 gauge to 4 gauge the amp ground should still be 4 gauge right? alsoo im pretty sure the audiopipe doesnt have internal fuses so how would i go about fusing the power wire? http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-20 just make a cut in the wire less than 16" from the battery, strip both ends of the 0ga, and put em in the fuse holder. for your amp i recomend the 120A fuse. a 120A fuse can handle up to 1728 watts, if you're charging at 14.4v. ok but how far from the amp should it be? Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowsound10 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 I will post in detail about your questions when I get home in 2 hours LOL Kranny. "I have all the answers but it'll take me 2 hours to give them to you" haha hey atleast hes willing to help me Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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