Yelladawg351 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 I tried searching for my problem to no avail. Well my problem is I'm get a buzzing noise in my front stage speakers(I do not have rear speakers). I do not have this problem with my sub thats connected to a different amp in. Its not engine related cause it does not get louder with the engine and the noise still comes on when my engine is off. Its also not RCA related cause it still makes noise when I disconnect them entirely(Radio, Eq., amplfier). Here is my setup-arrangement: 2011 Mustang GT Stock radio that has a hi to low level Scosche box(the reason I do not have rear speakers); Audiopipe 1800d(sub), Audiopipe 2000 for highs(front stage); Audiopipe Eq. I have 1 gauge wire that distributes to 4 gauge to my amps via distro blocks(Positive & Ground). My system is triggered by a 12v(always on) positive in fuse box and also a 12v positive(key triggered ) thats also in the fuse box. I checked my grounds(1 gauge Ground by the bottom rear seat cushion for the amps via distro block) and a 1 gauge Ground connected to the negative battery to the factory location near the strut tower. Both ground locations are tight and paint free. My Audiopipe 2000 has a built in fan so I hooked up a SPDT relay for the remote wire cause some posts stated to do that when u have a possible high current drain from your remote wire. But that did not help. All in a nutshell as soon I turn the key on engine off to power up(slight delay) the buzzing noise comes on, then when I turn the ignition off(car not running again) I get a pop noise through the speakers even though there is an always 12v positive wire and a key triggered wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 Anything??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ugpbmx Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 I would try moving the ground for your amps to a different location.or re check all of your connections on your converter that's going to the stock HU MY TRUCK BUILD - 1976 F-100 Ranger. Fully built 482 big block, 4 DC lvl4 15's in a blowthrough, plenty of custom fabrication. MY HATCH BUILD - 1993 Honda Civic DX Hatchback . Clean daily driver, dropped, subtle customization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loudcivic Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 is it still there when you turn the gain down? have you tried grounding out your rca's cuz that could be an issue since your using that box to convert to rca's. did you ground the converter box out? i have one of them and it has a ground wire coming out of it 2015 silverado crew cab nothing atm but soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 I moved the ground to a different location but with the same results. I rechecked my speaker terminal hook ups to make sure there is no shorting out. The noise is present when the gain is up or down. It can not be RCA related cause the noise is there when there are no RCA's going into the amplifier. All this is happening when the car is either on or off. Like I also stated before, there is no engine/alternator whine when I drive back and forth to wherever. As far for my pop situation when I turn it off I am going to order this (PAC - Low-Voltage Remote Turn-On Trigger) from BEST BUY. Do you think the low voltage trigger will eliminate the pop problem when I turn the ignition off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loudcivic Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 why do you have a remote wire to a 12v constant and a key triggered wire? i will suggest this take a toggle switch and 2 wires coming out of it. put one of the wires in the remote on the amp and the other wire on the 12 volt on the amp so you can turn it on and off to see if its your remote wire doing it. could also have a bad amp and make sure you disconnect all your other remote wires beside the toggle wores 2015 silverado crew cab nothing atm but soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 I have a 12v constant wire from the fuse box to power the Equalizer and also a 12v triggered wire from the fuse box to turn on the amps and also the Equalizer for the reason of using both power sources. The Audiopipe equalizer needs a 12v constant and and a trigger wire. The Equalizer did not have a remote wire for additional amps for the reason I have a trigger wire coming from the fuse box to turn on the equipment. If a toggle switch will eliminate the pop noise I will try that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.