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Little help, A Piller set up


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well with my a pillers being off, ive been in the mood to go and glass them finnaly, my question is, to keep the speakers in my door

aswell as put a set of components in the pillers

the speakers in my door are just your normal co-axle speakers

but my question is how the hell would i wire it all together? i have a 4ch powering the speakers in the doors already, and have a pair of crossovers from a friend, ive never messed with component sets before, none the less put more then 4 speakers in a car.

if you dont understand what im asking just ask lol

edit: ill be buying 2 sets of components, in order to have speakers to put in my pillers lol, just saying i have extra cross overs

Edited by Freshman6969

Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
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me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
jeff_zps9bc81ace.jpg

me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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I'll see if I can't get the ball rolling.

Maybe you might have to get a 4 channel amp just for the front and then another for the back.

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I just wired my a pillar speakers to the same spot as I did the 6.5 in my door on the cross over.. worked perfect for me.

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well first off, a passive crossover on just any speaker is kind of like a sub in a box thats made for a different sub.

so if you want to add another set you either need to get another amp, wire something to the HU, or find out if your amp is tri-mode capable.

as for the RCAs, you just use splitters if you add a new amp. make sure to maintain left and right channels. its all easy stuff. you should know how to do it.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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i have all my front door speakers on 1 amp along with the backs. i am soon going to put another 4 channel in just for the pillar speakers. (shoulda bought a 2 channel lol) so youll be good with a 4 channel and a 2 channel for the front. you will still have fades and everything

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if i wire it to the h/u wouldent there be a quality diffrence between the pillers and the doors?

Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
jeff_zps9bc81ace.jpg

me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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I just wired my a pillar speakers to the same spot as I did the 6.5 in my door on the cross over.. worked perfect for me.

Did the same thing.

well the thing is theres no crossovers in my doors, just a co-axle, i have an orion xtr? or xrt cross over, and orion cobalt speakers, so in my mind theres not much of a diffrence, but if i were to wire the 6.5 in my door to say the crossover in my piller, would i have a problem?

Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
jeff_zps9bc81ace.jpg

me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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if i wire it to the h/u wouldent there be a quality diffrence between the pillers and the doors?

probably, but why do you care? your about to mix coaxials in the doors with components in the pillars, there will be a quality difference there too. but its not like your going for a SQ build by any means.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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