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got new H.O Alternator.! now wat?..


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the altornator is computer tested and outputs the rated power....

Orion 2500D , 2-10" alpine type X. Custom enclosure,
Alpine amp for mids and highs.
Working on a center channel ATM

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the altornator is computer tested and outputs the rated power....

Got a clamp meter? I'd like to see how it does...

Anyway an alternator does not make your car louder, only supply more current to charge larger battery banks, and power higher powered amplifiers with less voltage drop.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

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Guest DC Power Kyle

The alternator may be "computer" tested with a birthsheet but it's not hard to fabricate what the program says the unit does.. just a matter of changing some numbers around..

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The alternator may be "computer" tested with a birthsheet but it's not hard to fabricate what the program says the unit does.. just a matter of changing some numbers around..

One of my teachers would always say, "Numbers don't lie, but liars use numbers."

I think that applies here.

Edited by blownengine

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT (Yea its got a Hemi)Alpine CDA-105KnuKonceptz 0ga CCA

Big 3 with Yellow Top

15" SoundQubed HDC3DC Audio 1.2K (Bass)Pioneer 6x9's (Front)Pioneer 6.5's (Rear)Kicker 3.5's (Dash)Sony amp on the highs. (Hey it was free)

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so everyone is agreeing that since this is not one of the major brands that they WILL NOT due what they say?

Never having dealt with this brand I can't say but what I can say from past trends with other people and low end ho alts is that theyre usually case by case. Some people don't have any problems with and others regret buying them and end up buying a dc or mechman or any of the other major ones. Which ends up being more costly cause you bought a paper weight and an alt

you win some, you lose some

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so everyone is agreeing that since this is not one of the major brands that they WILL NOT due what they say?

We are not saying it is impossible. But it looks highly unlikely.

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT (Yea its got a Hemi)Alpine CDA-105KnuKonceptz 0ga CCA

Big 3 with Yellow Top

15" SoundQubed HDC3DC Audio 1.2K (Bass)Pioneer 6x9's (Front)Pioneer 6.5's (Rear)Kicker 3.5's (Dash)Sony amp on the highs. (Hey it was free)

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Guest DC Power Kyle

The pricing is the giveaway... and plus, 200 amps at what voltage? 200 amps at 12.5 volts?

200 amps * 12.5 volts = 2500 watts.

now lets do some reverse math...

2500 watts / 14.0 volts = 178 amps. now it's not really a 200 amp alternator anymore.. Who wants 200 amps at a voltage they're trying to stay away from?

at what alternator speed? 10,000 rpms? 10,000 RPMs to a 3.25/1 ratio for engine to alternator is 3,076 RPMs

But then again, max numbers in the real daily driving world don't matter. What does matter is how much it will do at 13.5> volts at 2000-2250 alternator RPMs because not everyone can turn alternators at 2,500 alternator RPMs. Take my car for example. I have a 02 Camry with a 4 Cylinder Engine. On a good day my car idles at 2,250 alternator RPMs but usually it's at 2,000 alternator RPMs with my AC on.. now what many people don't really take into account for is the difference of 100-150 RPMs can make or break an alternators idle output. See this for example.. This is another competitors "fits all unit" that I tested for a customer that brought it in because he wasn't satisfied with the performance this is a performance test after i left the alternator in the freezer all night to see if i could get it to touch 200 amps...

Screen%20shot%202011-04-07%20at%207.19.40%20PM.png

So in the end, If you look at this graph you'll see that when I have my AC on when it's a really hot day this alternator will only do 38 amps at idle out of the freezer! So this isn't even taking into account 140F+ under hood temperatures which will make the performance even worse.. Now comparing this to a TRUE high output alternator you can compare side by side why idle really matters in this situation:

Screen%20shot%202011-04-07%20at%207.24.32%20PM.png

you simply gain the following numbers at idle...

2,000 Alternator RPM = 141 Amp Gain at 14 volts = 1,974 more watts of power than the other unit

2,250 Alternator RPM = 129 Amp Gain at 14 volts = 1,806 more watts of power than the other unit

2,500 Alternator RPM = 119 Amp Gain at 14 volts = 1,666 more watts of power than the other unit.

This is why I believe that TRUE idle performance matched with what your car REALLY idles at at the Alternator RPM speed matters. Rating at 2,400 Alternator RPM or 2,500 Alternator RPM is only realistic on very few engines. Hell, even the Chrysler 300s and Magnums idle around 2,000-2,250 Alternator RPM..

Hope I made things clear :)

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200amps at 1200rpm.. and its a delco. delco makes good altornators they been around for years. i payed 215$ for it..... it aint cheap.. and its on sale too

Orion 2500D , 2-10" alpine type X. Custom enclosure,
Alpine amp for mids and highs.
Working on a center channel ATM

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