RooTxBeeR Posted April 9, 2011 Report Posted April 9, 2011 My specs right now are 2.47 Cu 35.05Hz with 3"x13"x25.5" port, port is bent at 14" into 11.5", 36" Port area. I would like to know if that .07 on my boxes Cu would be enough for bracing. Or if anyone knows about how much displacement would be there from bracing the inside of the box? On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
zrkie Posted April 9, 2011 Report Posted April 9, 2011 I guess the rule of thumb for any overkill bass setup is to brace it more than you think is necessary. I've used front to back 2" x 2" crossbars, about 4-5 to stable it out... If you can calculate port displacement, do the same thing to the total of bracing material! There are a few ways, metal bars threaded that u attach with nuts and washers. Stable when larger dimensions.... like M16 and above. Try flexing at store! The advantage of these is that they dont displace much volume at all. Using internal additional walls, that are cut out wholes in the middle allowing for airflow is very strong bracing as it reaches all walls. Don't like sharing your knowledge? Welll.. Don't come here and grab others then! - GTFO.
dugee81 Posted April 9, 2011 Report Posted April 9, 2011 I used 3 1" wooden dowels from top to bottom, left t right, and front to back in my setup. 18" hdc3 on xx colossus. Holds up great, cost me next t nothing, and does not displace a whole lot as compared to other methods. 200a alt. by Excessive Amperage hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear 1/0awg + big 3 SAZ 3000D HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm
RooTxBeeR Posted April 10, 2011 Author Report Posted April 10, 2011 ty On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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