zrkie

Right, I see your point, when thinking about it again, I kind of agree generally. In your case I'm completely buying the reasoning. However, Im still not convinced that a cable needs close to stipulated max amperage to get hot. From vids I've seen no excessive amounts of current are required to over time (some 30mins I think it was) would still make a SIGNIFICANT difference to OFC wire even at (what I remember as: ) rather real-life experienced amperage. This is perhaps a bigger problem in my eyes than in yours, since our market over here has flooded with low cost low quality CCA wire the last couple of years, even if prices is not more than about 30% less expensive than OFC still. Some people are making a good deal out of low quality. Not enought people discuss material, but stick with what gauge the cable is. Keep the good work up! Cheers,

Impressive & Inspiring! About the CCA vs OFC, I recon the issue is not only about amperage rating with regards to fusing, but the general heating over time which builds in the wire when current passes through. Ie, the wire eventually gets warmed up in a way that OFC does not, which causes voltage drop even if the fuses won't blow.

+1 on the camera work, front - back!

5511

Good this is taken care of properly :] Wonder why he didnt come to you in the first place meade?

would be great to add some pics of a RCA's of the "rare kind" to help understand...

A friend had 2x18 hdc3, pushing them wiht 6k each. No bad smell, no problems.... Really great woofers... I dont believe 3518s would handle it that well edit: That is clamped power!

I've seen that happen.... that aint pretty.... luckely nobody was in the vehicle at the time... Should be mentioned it was not about burping @contest, but regular garage....

wtf was that ?

Go for a regular ported box. Around 1200cm^2 ort, around 50cm length approximate volume (including woofer displacement, port displacement) = 450-550L. Will be tuned in the 32-34hz area. Will rock the shit out of most stuff. Now: I hope u didnt just get these woofers with less than +5kw power? and less than 5 batteries or HO alternator? Otherwise you are fucked.

Any updates on this tapped horn build?

Good work! I like yer choice of cable massitivity =D

CTEK is truly great stuff! Check out their largest; US2500. http://smartercharger.com/products/batterychargers/ctek-multi-us-25000/ Anyone with more than 2-3 batteries should get one of these to regularly get some extra juice put in. Just plug in and let it be. HAndles up to 500Ah battery banks.

Go out n do it again

Good work!

I'm just curious, why does it kill alternators to charge deeply uncharged batteries?

http://www.bilstereoforum.se/attachment.php?attachmentid=5151&d=1299697951 ..what u waitin for?

Basically, u can never have too much wires! cash and placement is limiting. AND benefit, at certain points u dont need any more. I'd like to see someone testing with multiple rounds of + from front to back, but not having multiple rounds of (-), if there is really a difference. My schooling tells me it shouldnt if grounds are properly made in each end.

DC alternators sell the kits clearly stating how they would perform together with stock. I've never seen or heard about anyone on the forums who has done that. People always tend to go for as many XP's they can fit/afford. What would happen to the output voltage? The XP' seems to be put at 15.33, probably way higher than stock (and SP's too!). What kind of output do I get when mixing XP and stock? Plus, I was thinking to do 3 runs of 0 gauge (all positive?), that be enough right?

To hijack/help, what kind of Pc simulaters do ppl use for bandpass? I've only played around with WinISD. However, it says it aint optimized at all for 4th. So what to do?

I guess they might put out 15.1v... I've seen that on youtube videos as the 'regular' resting voltage. I dunno if there are external VCU that easily fits to these alts? (url anyone?)

I plan to run them together, not divided between audio and car function. It seems better to go for a HO alternator at this point than adding a few extra batteries.. Since this is for daily driving and not indoor demo's... At least on paper there should be no difference between SP or XP series in output voltage; 14.8V. But experience >>> paper.

Heya guys! I’ve looked into Dcalternators to get a HO alternator. I’ll think about getting Dual brackets kit to run 2 alts including the stock alt. My ride is an Escalde 2003. 270XP : $599 (210A idle) 270SP: $449 (180A idle) 280PRO: $399 (160A idle) My system is: 3x batt (75Ah Running Bull AGM) all 0 gauge, 2x Rockford t20001bd at 2ohms, SoloX 18” I see most people get the 270XP. Is there any other significant difference between these alts than the idle output?? I hoped to use a dual alt setup, so maybe it is enough with the 270SP?? peace

quite simplified it means the next frequency which the port will emphasize, due to it matches a quarter wavelength of sound. U get different first resonances cuz of different lenghts of the port. However, as u see those numbers are quite high. The sub wont be playing any 300hz frequencier (u are using lowpass filter), however... in a speaker where u actually would be playing in that frequency range, this 1st port resonance might come into play. But for subboxes, it can be completely discarded.

Old rule of thumb here goes 1 batt per 1k rms.