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whats the most largest amp you can safely run threw 4g wire


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depends on what brand of 4 gauge wire, if its good stuff, it can take between 100-125 amps of power, multiply that by 14.4 and that would be 1800 watts, but in reality that would be pushing that wire, I wouldn't run much more then 1200 watts though it continuously, otherwise I would jump to 0 gauge wire

that would depend on if its class AB or class D, and also thats the input power, not the amplifiers output power.

plus I've never had an alternator that charges at 14.4volts.

wow, you pick my post out of everybody.......... wattage is a measurement of electricity, whether it is going into the amp or coming out of the amp, yes, it is a fact that most factory alternators charge between 14.-14.4 volts if you never knew that!!! as far as the wattage rating 1800 watts at 14.4 volts is 125 amps if you can do math, and yes 1200 watts at 14.4 is ~83 amps of power, this is what you call electricity, and watts is a measurement of this!!!, if you have a 1200 watts amplifier then factor in efficiency of perhaps 60-70% all depending on the amp, as it can vary a lot more depending on the class of the amp. So if you factor in that efficiency of 60%-70% you will get roughly 1800 watts of input, and 1200 watts of output, you see how that works? see how I am not stupid and you need to stop acting like you know everything, leave me alone you prick, I don't want you around me, you are an ass!!!!

Also if you are running your amps below 14.4 volts then you are not going to reach there maximum efficiency for many of them, as they are designed to run at a charging voltage, some even higher

Sorry for acting childish, but this guy is a total ass and think he knows everything!!! pissing me off!!!!!!!!!! :bull:

so anyway, a realistic amplifier OUTPUT using 4ga cable would be 1000 - 1200watts or so.

obviously, the more power, the more voltage drop along the cable, more chance of damaging the amplifier.

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depends on what brand of 4 gauge wire, if its good stuff, it can take between 100-125 amps of power, multiply that by 14.4 and that would be 1800 watts, but in reality that would be pushing that wire, I wouldn't run much more then 1200 watts though it continuously, otherwise I would jump to 0 gauge wire

that would depend on if its class AB or class D, and also thats the input power, not the amplifiers output power.

plus I've never had an alternator that charges at 14.4volts.

wow, you pick my post out of everybody.......... wattage is a measurement of electricity, whether it is going into the amp or coming out of the amp, yes, it is a fact that most factory alternators charge between 14.-14.4 volts if you never knew that!!! as far as the wattage rating 1800 watts at 14.4 volts is 125 amps if you can do math, and yes 1200 watts at 14.4 is ~83 amps of power, this is what you call electricity, and watts is a measurement of this!!!, if you have a 1200 watts amplifier then factor in efficiency of perhaps 60-70% all depending on the amp, as it can vary a lot more depending on the class of the amp. So if you factor in that efficiency of 60%-70% you will get roughly 1800 watts of input, and 1200 watts of output, you see how that works? see how I am not stupid and you need to stop acting like you know everything, leave me alone you prick, I don't want you around me, you are an ass!!!!

Also if you are running your amps below 14.4 volts then you are not going to reach there maximum efficiency for many of them, as they are designed to run at a charging voltage, some even higher

Sorry for acting childish, but this guy is a total ass and think he knows everything!!! pissing me off!!!!!!!!!! :bull:

I support you mate. He has no reason to call you out when your trying to help the OP... Why is it that I'm noticing so much more bickering on the forum now? It wasn't like this when I joined :P

thanks man!!!!! cause of noob ass kids replying on here, pissing me off

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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depends on what brand of 4 gauge wire, if its good stuff, it can take between 100-125 amps of power, multiply that by 14.4 and that would be 1800 watts, but in reality that would be pushing that wire, I wouldn't run much more then 1200 watts though it continuously, otherwise I would jump to 0 gauge wire

that would depend on if its class AB or class D, and also thats the input power, not the amplifiers output power.

plus I've never had an alternator that charges at 14.4volts.

wow, you pick my post out of everybody.......... wattage is a measurement of electricity, whether it is going into the amp or coming out of the amp, yes, it is a fact that most factory alternators charge between 14.-14.4 volts if you never knew that!!! as far as the wattage rating 1800 watts at 14.4 volts is 125 amps if you can do math, and yes 1200 watts at 14.4 is ~83 amps of power, this is what you call electricity, and watts is a measurement of this!!!, if you have a 1200 watts amplifier then factor in efficiency of perhaps 60-70% all depending on the amp, as it can vary a lot more depending on the class of the amp. So if you factor in that efficiency of 60%-70% you will get roughly 1800 watts of input, and 1200 watts of output, you see how that works? see how I am not stupid and you need to stop acting like you know everything, leave me alone you prick, I don't want you around me, you are an ass!!!!

Also if you are running your amps below 14.4 volts then you are not going to reach there maximum efficiency for many of them, as they are designed to run at a charging voltage, some even higher

Sorry for acting childish, but this guy is a total ass and think he knows everything!!! pissing me off!!!!!!!!!! :bull:

so anyway, a realistic amplifier OUTPUT using 4ga cable would be 1000 - 1200watts or so.

obviously, the more power, the more voltage drop along the cable, more chance of damaging the amplifier.

the higher the amps your push through it the more resistance, the more voltage drop across the cable, also depends on length/temperature/ many other factors no one cares about

2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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and I wasn't calling you out.

simply clarifying what you'd stated, that it was input power you're referring to, not output power.

if you don't want your posts clarified, make them extremely clear to begin with :)

I'm sure you don't want someone thinking "oh, he says I can use an 1800watt amp on 4ga cable, well, 2000watts isn't much more than that, so I'll use 4ga for my 2000watt amp"

and then he has voltage drop because he's running his stereo with the engine off, and the amp dies, and he blames you :P

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so by running 4g to an ap1500 theres no way id be able to get the real rms the amp puts out?

heres my problem i drive a neon so my alt is 90 amp its also a newer alt so i dont plan on getting a HO atm i may get a overdrive pulley for it though. but im trying to find out what i need to do to run the 2 amps i want at atleast 14v at full volume

planning for a ap1500 and a 4 chanell duel that does 50x4 rms if i need to run 1/0 to get the atleast 1400 rms im after i will do so but im just trying to see if i can get away with the 4g i have so i can spend money elsewhere like atm the stock battery is dead i dont mean it needs to be charged i mean i need a new one so im thinking about going with a red top

the one im looking at i think was 800cca i dont remember what ah it had but i was also planning on running another cheap battery in the back advanced auto parts has cheap but large 800 and 1000 cca batterys so im hoping and asking people around here if my alt with 1/0g big 3 redtop up from 4g from front bat to rear bat then to amp with both amps full tilt will i see below 14 ik thats kinda a hard question to ask with out it actually being dumb but can that be done with 4g if not ill just use 0 to the second bat then 4 to the amp cause like someone said 4 barly fits into the amp.

or could i get away with just the redtop up from and have little voltage drop

thanks for everyones help

I picked up an MTX Sw1212 powered subwoofer today. This thing sounds amazing. 130 watts, 12" woofer with a passive 12" woofer tuned to 27 hz. Moving the pictures on the walls and my girl got wet from the bass when i showed her haha. Tonight should be good haha.

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Normal cars/trucks....

Good 4awg will run 12-1300 rms

I dont push it much more than that

2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz
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Normal cars/trucks....

Good 4awg will run 12-1300 rms

I dont push it much more than that

2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz
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I wouldn't be running the monoblock and the 4 channel amp off a single 4ga cable, so you may as well go with 0ga, and you'll need a battery that at least works!:P

one run of 4 going from the retop to the 1500 another run of 8g from the bat to the other amp 1/0 actually isnt that much its 70 shipped for 25 feet of monster cable so im just gona get 1/0

but that brings me to my next thing will the second bat in the back really be needed to keep a 14 with a good redtop up front

this is the bat im planning to get for the front

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Optima-RedTop-Starting-12-Volt-Battery-9004-003-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56437710c2QQitemZ370499064002QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1744wt_939

I picked up an MTX Sw1212 powered subwoofer today. This thing sounds amazing. 130 watts, 12" woofer with a passive 12" woofer tuned to 27 hz. Moving the pictures on the walls and my girl got wet from the bass when i showed her haha. Tonight should be good haha.

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