Left rear running light dosnt work?

[FreekDesignz]

I've got an 02' TrailBlazer. I've never done any work on it at all. I got pulled over for having a tail light out. (the brake light and running light are in the same bulb but my brake light works fine) So I went out and bought a new bulb for it. Once I got ahold of the "dead" bulb I looked at it and it didn't seem to be burnt out. I replaced the bulb and the problem was still there. Every running light or light for that matter (brakes and all) worked just fine exept the rear driver side running light. But the brake light still worked.

Anyone know what this could be???

[Monergist]

I've got an 02' TrailBlazer. I've never done any work on it at all. I got pulled over for having a tail light out. (the brake light and running light are in the same bulb but my brake light works fine) So I went out and bought a new bulb for it. Once I got ahold of the "dead" bulb I looked at it and it didn't seem to be burnt out. I replaced the bulb and the problem was still there. Every running light or light for that matter (brakes and all) worked just fine exept the rear driver side running light. But the brake light still worked.

Anyone know what this could be???

It's either a bad wire or a bad brake light socket. I'd put my money on a bad socket.

[FreekDesignz]

Thank you I'll check that out. I looked at a little of the wiring and it looked great.

Also my ABS light comes at random even when I'm not using the brake. Any ideas on that?

[Monergist]

One of your ABS sensors is either loose or needs to be replaced. Sometimes they simply go bad but other times if you have big rims they easily get rubbed and ground up in the wheel well. There are 4 sensors (1 connected to each brake/rotor assembly); you'll need an OBD II scanner to see if it's front left, front right, rear left, or rear right. But in the meanwhile, you can get under there and make sure they're connected securely if you don't have a scanner.

[FreekDesignz]

You guys are great!! Thank you so much!

[captainhook426]

hit it with some contact cleaner and a wire brush first, or some sand paper. make sure that connector is good and clean and the contacts aren't bent around funny from vibrations or something. I believe those also have the board in the tail light (not really sure looking up factory wiring diagram after this), but those boards like to go our on everything they are in. take a voltmeter and double check for power AND ground. if that doesn't work do a voltage drop test.

voltage drop test:

1 take voltmeter from positive cavity of connector to positive on battery. if it reads above a volt you have an issue on the power side. or you could have some corrosion.

2 take leads from negative cavity to the cleanest closed ground you can find, if it reads close to or above 1 volt then you have lost a ground or you have some narley corrosion going on somewhere.

if this doesn't help I'm sorry. I just love electrical diagnosis, it's kind of a big deal to me.

[captainhook426]

One of your ABS sensors is either loose or needs to be replaced. Sometimes they simply go bad but other times if you have big rims they easily get rubbed and ground up in the wheel well. There are 4 sensors (1 connected to each brake/rotor assembly); you'll need an OBD II scanner to see if it's front left, front right, rear left, or rear right. But in the meanwhile, you can get under there and make sure they're connected securely if you don't have a scanner.

you can also check an ABS sensor with a voltmeter set on the A/C setting, and back probing into the connector. the voltage should climb the faster you spin the bearing/wheel. if you get a dead spot then the sensor is defiantly bad, I also believe the wheel bearings and the sensors are all one unit. which makes the things horribly expensive, so be 100% positive it's the sensor and not just a dirty contact or a bad wire.