Stee-Z Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 On the picture that the one guy has of the second battery in the rear, he has a negative wire coming from the front battery to the back battery, then it splits off and the negative wire goes to the chasi, and another one goes to the amp. My question is, what does the negative going to the amp do, and where does it go in? Do you hook it up in the ground, and its a ground or what?!?! please help haha Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou Frasier Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 yes,it is a ground,and if memory serves me correctly,it's that way to lessen the chance of grounding issues,,the more places you have grounds,the more your chances of having noise issues,if I am incorrect,someone please correct me as I too am still learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted May 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 so i dont have to have another wire going to the chasi? just the one going to the battery/to the chasi? Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 think ok the chassis as a wire. the negative actually starts at the battery, goes into the chassis then to your "ground" and into the amp. the copper in wire is more conductive than the steel of the car however. power doesnt just go into the chassis and disappear, it completes a circuit. is that what you were asking? Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrace Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 As long as your 2nd battery has 1 ground spot your fine, but the front battery needs 2 grounds 1 to the chasis and 1 to the engine block Quote 145.9@40hz 145.3@34hz big 3 X2 group 34 Deka Group 31 All 0/1 awg jl meta wire Alpine CDA 7894 Orion HCCA D5000 2 AQ HDC312's Crunch gpv1100.2 (for 6.5"s only) AQ pro audio 6.5" - 3 sets AQ supertweeters - 2 sets 2000 Slamry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stee-Z Posted May 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 kk thanks everyone!! Quote (4)DD 9918's (2)DC 10k 8 6.5" focals 2 DD SS4 mid amps Audison Bit One processor Jl-cl-rlc line driver iPad in dash Dual Irragi 320a alts 8 batcaps 4000's Second Skin sound deadened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 they amp is hooked directly to the battery, so the amp can pull from the battery all the power it needs while the alt charges the battery and supplies current to that amp all at the same time, keeps your volts higher, and gets rid of grounding issues Quote 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrace Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Btw running a negative from the front battery to the back battery is not necessary just ground it in the back. You could ground in 1 spot in the back and use a distrobution block to have spots for a few wires. Quote 145.9@40hz 145.3@34hz big 3 X2 group 34 Deka Group 31 All 0/1 awg jl meta wire Alpine CDA 7894 Orion HCCA D5000 2 AQ HDC312's Crunch gpv1100.2 (for 6.5"s only) AQ pro audio 6.5" - 3 sets AQ supertweeters - 2 sets 2000 Slamry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Link to Guide that the guide? I made that one Quote 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Btw running a negative from the front battery to the back battery is not necessary just ground it in the back. You could ground in 1 spot in the back and use a distrobution block to have spots for a few wires. thats a really generic answer, some cars are not unibody and are welded together, and having just a ground spot in the back will cause horrible voltage drops, it all depends on the car, most of the time it is fine, if you are doing a huge build with lots and lots of power then its worth it to tun that negative wire back there, you will not only get steady voltages, but will be better for your amps as they dont have to deal with a shitty ass ground, also you have to have the same size ground wire as the positive wire, so if you use a distro block with lets say 3 8gauge wires coming out, then you need to make sure that you positive going into the amps are 8 gauge, and if that power wire is to small then you need to upgrade both neg and postive to bigger wire, it has to complete a curcuit Quote 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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