Mrop Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 old battery terminal changed into brand new! amp is hooked up, loooooooks messy, but wont stay that way long. i triedto maxx that 4x250w. but i could only get 20vac when bridged and 16vac from single channel, thus that piece of sh*t has only like 4x50w output. and my sub gets now in 4ohm bridged mode: 100w, with total front+back = 150w. ouch. i hooked up everything played sum bass and turned volvo on. GHHHZZZZ VIUUUUUUUUUUU KGKGKGK.. BAM! WTF ! groundfoil is broken... no worries, i know how to fix it. piece of wire here! stick it in there! connect the RCA! and run the wire here! problem solved! now, i got first bass, but i want more. gotta buy some more cables and get battery to the back. i think ill get the battery today or tomorrow, amp i got already the bass speaker and box are missing. i took the amp out from the box, it sure looks nice! this one should push 3000w to .5ohm. BIG terminals for wiring. me likes! BASS-KNOB! booya! www.peranurkka.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefanhinote Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Tuned in for the volvo, I just hope you don't fry your amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrop Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Tuned in for the volvo, I just hope you don't fry your amp. i won't. amp is gettin all the power it needs and more, only thing i'm afraid of is frying my sub, as it is hard to get a subwoofer that can stand 3000w RMS here in finland. i got like 2 choise, either DD Z-series (we have DD importer here) or Ground Zero SPL -series. both can handle over 5000w RMS easily. but they cost way too much for me (DD-Z 4000€, GZ 1600€) and my budget for sub is morelike 400€ so today my plan was: -save the tweeter -0AWG from alternator to front battery -Relay between front and back battery -getting my back battery tweeter looked like this i got my vacuum and tried to save my tweeter with it, they told me in 2 diffirent forums to try vacuum, and i was like: R u sure? O_o at this point it was go for it! however it didn't worked. so i got another plan piece of tape, roll it. stuff it in poke it with stick pull it out it wasn't perfect, but it worked! then the "big 3" i got already BIG grounding cables from front battery straight to the engine and chassis, by stock so i decided only to put big wire from alternator to front battery. old vs new under the engine i tried to get it as stabile as possible, so it wont move when starting the engine. i gotta take pic from the relay, i think ill save it for tomorrow tho don't feel like doing much more today. so then i headed to get my back battery... haha! that should do it! it's a CSB88Ah, 75lbs of raaaw powaa! and 12 0AWG cables to run from bars to the amp. i won't fry that amp! it will have all the power it needs! www.peranurkka.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefanhinote Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Tuned in for sub enclosure and drivers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supercharged DCs Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 You will not be getting 3000wrms at .5ohm with that amp, how in the world did you figure that? And there are plenty of subwoofers that could handle 3000wrms of clean power in a correcty built box, using this amp on a DDZ would be a crime. Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrop Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 the amp has been measured in the official MaxBoom test bench here in finland. according to the results of the test this amp produces: Power@4=710W Power@2=1240W Power@1=1870W [email protected]=3094W i don't know much about how actually they do these tests, only thing i know is that we use this calculator to determine our class to competete in. we choose our AMP, connection and the amount of AMPs in use, and the calculator calculates what class we are in and what kind of handicap i have against others. also the amount of subwoofers affects on your handicap, so if you got like 4x 15" subwoofers in the 1500w class you get -0,7dB on the end result. we play one song wich has tones from 35Hz to 56Hz at 3Hz steps. and we play that 33seconds, and the average SPL we produce in sealed up car is the key part here. so your enclosure must push high spl on wide 21Hz range. "rule of thumb" when planning on your class is, the max rms you can get from your amp divided by 2 = your class, so when i'm aiming in 1500w stock class i need to push 3000w rms. so in a nutshell: i'm planning on 1500w stock -class. i got FX1500D @ .5ohm, and one 15". calculator calculates that i got 94w more than needed, so i get -0,14dB at the end result. i know there is alot good speakers that can handle the 3000w but they are not available here in finland. you can't get stuff shipped from states to europe so easily. 75lbs sub will cost twice the much it costs there due shipping. and local dealers have only subs that can handle 1200-1500RMS according to factory settings. only one's i've found yet are the DD's Z and GZ's SPL subs. www.peranurkka.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supercharged DCs Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 DC Lv4 XL, T3 TSNS, AA Mayhem, AA SMD, DD9500, Fi BTL, DC Lv 5, and some more that I know I'm forgetting. And damn, that's a large increase in power. I would like to see clamp results. Also, nice build so far. I think I sounded a bit of an asshole in my previous post. Sorry bout that Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Everything looks good so far. I'm interested to see the finished build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrop Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 DC Lv4 XL, T3 TSNS, AA Mayhem, AA SMD, DD9500, Fi BTL, DC Lv 5, and some more that I know I'm forgetting. And damn, that's a large increase in power. I would like to see clamp results. Also, nice build so far. I think I sounded a bit of an asshole in my previous post. Sorry bout that no worries , i get that kind of messages pretty often, (dump dat shit and buy this or that, coz i know and you know nothing -type of messages daily >_> ). however everytime i do build logs there is something i'm missing and every post is important. we do have DC audio importer in europe, a lvl4 XL is roughly 550€ whitout shipping. i've already asked for pricing for lvl 5 shipped in finland, but haven't got any response. i took some time searching for AA / Fi importer, and gladly found one! in europe tho. http://www.bladeice.com/products.php does AA / Fi http://www.directice.co.uk/ does DC audio nice! haven't found any T3 Distributor in europe, but alot to do before the sub. time will tell what will be my choise, one to keep in mind is that one old manufacturer has started to make new subs for Bassheads, finnish "autostudio". i've heard that the new series is build from quality components, such 3" voicecoil and kevlar cone. basket looks alot like SPL dynamic's baskets, so i gotta check that one also, it is rated at 1500w, but if it is what i've heard it will take much more than 1500w. autostudio reference unlimited 15D1 1500wrms 5000w peak spl dynamics SPL 380 D1A 1500wrms 3000w peak www.peranurkka.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefanhinote Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Talk to Blade Ice and get some AA or Fi product, you won't regret it. Another thing you may have to consider with 0.5ohm on the amp is distortion, it will raise a fair amount, now whether it will be acceptable or audible, not sure. And then you'll have impedance rise, so when your doing your burps and so forth, you won't have 0.5ohm 3kw for very long. And your highest impedance rise will be near your enclosure tuning, IIRC. Excited to see how the volvo turns out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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