Help on glassing doors. I am noob.

[tonedeaf]

epicenter, I fucking love you.

Easy killer.....lol

As for the rings, I can make them for ya, but you might find someoone closer that might be cheaper. I didn't mention it to get your money for rings. (although the 200 internets sounds good)

I charge $35 shipped for 4 rings like that. You can use the rings you have, rabbeted ones make work easier IMO.

And i probally couldn't ship them till the weekend anyways.

Well I work tom. night (graveyard shift), and thursday night, and I believe im going floating over the weekend. Then I work monday and tuesday and am off wed/thurs...so basically, If I didnt work on these tomorrow, I wouldnt be able to really get to them till next week...so basically, I may very well take you up on those rings. As you can see mine are shit anyways and I kind of wanted to countersink the speakers anyways...I like the look of 'volcano pods'. I just dont want this to turn our like shit...I also dont expect them to look 100% professional. I just want the best job I can do with what I have. $35 shipped for countersunk rabetted rings that arent odd shaped like mine I think would proabably be worth it. So shoot me a pm and we can discuss it. Hopefully I dont ./wrists over this project.

[tonedeaf]

The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer

than the sweetness of that cheap price!

^^ Thats why I want it done right. Already spent more than I wanted to. Might as well spend some more to do it right and not have to redo them...

[tonedeaf]

OK here is what I would tell you to do.

Take everything off and start over. The bottom ring needs to be brought up some. It will hit the door sill once wrapped and glassed. I suggest cutting the panel out so that speaker has 1/4" between the door skin and the magnet.

From that point, you can figure out the placement for the 2nd speaker. Again, I suggest cutting the panel just enough for the magnet to pass. The more plastic you can keep, the more rigid the panel will stay while pulling on it.

Those are option. Some like the volcano style pods jumping off the door.

I suggest getting the rings rabbeted. Then you can staple into the groove.

In the attached pic, the blue represents a rabbet groove and where you should staple.

The yellow is your rings.

The red is where I would staple the material. On the outside edge and the bottom edge, you can bring it over the bend. But I would bring it about 1/2" inside the dash bodyline on the door and under the armrest areas.

IMPORTANT...... MORE STAPLES. The should basically touch each other.

The material you are using looks pretty stretchy. There is no reason why you should have folds in the material.

As you do the following steps, you need to pull the material taunt. Not so hard you rip it, but you also don't want any sags.

Start at the lower corner under the bottom ring and staple to the panel all along the bottom. Once you get within 2 - 3" of the corner, stop. Now staple from the bottom ring up the door panel along the dash body line. (remember to keep that 1/2" space).

Go ahead and make the curve at the top towards the side of the panel under the armrest but stop about 6" in.

Go back to the lower corner on the outside and start going up the panel. Stop about 2 - 3" short.

You should be able to pull all the material tight and see where you need to go now and start finishing up all the stapling.

Once you have the border stapled down, you then go back and staple into the rabbet groove on the rings. If you need to take some slack out, you can push the material down inside the ring and it will pull it tight all the way around.

Resin it.

Mat it.

Grind it.

Also grind about 3 - 4" of the door panel or till you reach a hard edge like a bodyline or something.

This is where I suggest you use a plastic epoxy or urethane to blend the fiberglass into the plastic and smooth it out real good with a quality body filler like Rage Gold.

Now you can wrap the panels in a vinyl, suede, velour and then attach the insert back and install the door handle/armrest and you now have some custom door panels that look factoryish.

I'll send you my paypal to pay for the knowledge you just received.

Gonna bump this as im looking here in a few weeks to get back on these door panels. I was considering cutting out the 'pocket' of the bottom plastic molding and somehow building off of that as it removes, that way I dont ruin the whole door panel. I also considered making an MDF attachment there instead of the plastic piece, but figured that would pose difficult getting it to look stockish. I decided to go three way active and I think for ease of the job im just gonna stick with a single midbass in each door with one midrange and one tweet. (speaking of, this reminded me to PM you epicenter) Would something like this be my best option, or would cutting into the door panel itself work best? Or epicenter just kind of follow what you said here, and find placement of the tweet and midrange once I find a safe placement for the midbass?

Im almost considering building from scratch somewhat like DB don did, as getting all this speakjer wire into my doors is going to be a bitch and a half because honda used 'plugs' for ease of maintenance I guess. These door panels are a PITA to work with and I get frustrated quickly, so just wondering if there are any better options before I chop up these door panels. =P

[EpicenterDesigns]

I been meaning to send you a text for a couple weeks. But I get so busy I forget. I have some stuff for you. Assuming you still want them.

I still think my idea will work best for ya. Only thing I can think of that would be easier for you to do as a starter project would be how I did the Malibu doors.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/101467-09-malibu/page__p__1407370__fromsearch__1#entry1407370

But since you already started these panels before and they have marks in them, then maybe not.

Building panels from scratch is alot more work than it looks. Alot of other smaller things you need to account for during the build.

As for the wiring, you have a couple options. Most plugs have extra unused contact points. You can drill them out and pass the wire there. Or just drill and grommet holes below the factory plugs and boot the wire.

As for tweeter placement, I like 1 tweeter on the door by the mids and the other in the "A" pillars.

[2007TBSS]

OK here is what I would tell you to do.

Take everything off and start over. The bottom ring needs to be brought up some. It will hit the door sill once wrapped and glassed. I suggest cutting the panel out so that speaker has 1/4" between the door skin and the magnet.

From that point, you can figure out the placement for the 2nd speaker. Again, I suggest cutting the panel just enough for the magnet to pass. The more plastic you can keep, the more rigid the panel will stay while pulling on it.

Those are option. Some like the volcano style pods jumping off the door.

I suggest getting the rings rabbeted. Then you can staple into the groove.

In the attached pic, the blue represents a rabbet groove and where you should staple.

The yellow is your rings.

The red is where I would staple the material. On the outside edge and the bottom edge, you can bring it over the bend. But I would bring it about 1/2" inside the dash bodyline on the door and under the armrest areas.

IMPORTANT...... MORE STAPLES. The should basically touch each other.

The material you are using looks pretty stretchy. There is no reason why you should have folds in the material.

As you do the following steps, you need to pull the material taunt. Not so hard you rip it, but you also don't want any sags.

Start at the lower corner under the bottom ring and staple to the panel all along the bottom. Once you get within 2 - 3" of the corner, stop. Now staple from the bottom ring up the door panel along the dash body line. (remember to keep that 1/2" space).

Go ahead and make the curve at the top towards the side of the panel under the armrest but stop about 6" in.

Go back to the lower corner on the outside and start going up the panel. Stop about 2 - 3" short.

You should be able to pull all the material tight and see where you need to go now and start finishing up all the stapling.

Once you have the border stapled down, you then go back and staple into the rabbet groove on the rings. If you need to take some slack out, you can push the material down inside the ring and it will pull it tight all the way around.

Resin it.

Mat it.

Grind it.

Also grind about 3 - 4" of the door panel or till you reach a hard edge like a bodyline or something.

This is where I suggest you use a plastic epoxy or urethane to blend the fiberglass into the plastic and smooth it out real good with a quality body filler like Rage Gold.

Now you can wrap the panels in a vinyl, suede, velour and then attach the insert back and install the door handle/armrest and you now have some custom door panels that look factoryish.

I'll send you my paypal to pay for the knowledge you just received.

I just read about 20 threads looking for a post just like this.

Thanks!

[KHRISS]

tuned in

[POPLERO]

Great info! Very helpfull and informative.