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Posted

are you sure you wired the subs up right??

i know with my buddys old xplode i wired it down to .35 and it didnt go into protect or anything instead it just burnt my finger when i went to touch it

R.I.P!

(Nov-29-2009)

92 explorer

- 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz

current build

97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0

Posted

to start it's summer, so what ever ambient temp it is in yer car, the heatsink of the amp is already. next, the mids/highs amp is class A/B which runs warm to hot due to it's nature in circuit design.

unless your amp/amps are shutting down from thermal protect, i wouldn't worry too much

ascendant.jpglogo.jpgteamsundown-1.jpgDCPowerLogoTransparent2.png

Posted

bad ground/clipping/low ohm load

go to frame or do front to back ground

in my saturn my front to back ground had less resistance than a strut tower ground

I was told that chassis ground was better them frame is not true. if I go front to back I still need another ground to the chassis of frame dont I?

TEAM DC AUDIO

1999 Tahoe

HU-Clarion flip out

& Clarion EQS746

Mids/Highs Amp-MB QUART ONX4.125

Mids/Highs- Undecided

Sub Amp-DC Audio 7.5

Subs-4x DC Audio xl 18s

Alt- 270sp & 250sp Dc Power

Big 3 1/0

http://dcaudio.us/

SPL-LAB sells rep. for IOWA

http://spllabusa.proboards.com/

Posted

are you sure you wired the subs up right??

i know with my buddys old xplode i wired it down to .35 and it didnt go into protect or anything instead it just burnt my finger when i went to touch it

pretty sure it is I used the 12volt.com

TEAM DC AUDIO

1999 Tahoe

HU-Clarion flip out

& Clarion EQS746

Mids/Highs Amp-MB QUART ONX4.125

Mids/Highs- Undecided

Sub Amp-DC Audio 7.5

Subs-4x DC Audio xl 18s

Alt- 270sp & 250sp Dc Power

Big 3 1/0

http://dcaudio.us/

SPL-LAB sells rep. for IOWA

http://spllabusa.proboards.com/

Posted

to start it's summer, so what ever ambient temp it is in yer car, the heatsink of the amp is already. next, the mids/highs amp is class A/B which runs warm to hot due to it's nature in circuit design.

unless your amp/amps are shutting down from thermal protect, i wouldn't worry too much

when they start gettig hot I true sh!t off, dont want to f**k something up know.

TEAM DC AUDIO

1999 Tahoe

HU-Clarion flip out

& Clarion EQS746

Mids/Highs Amp-MB QUART ONX4.125

Mids/Highs- Undecided

Sub Amp-DC Audio 7.5

Subs-4x DC Audio xl 18s

Alt- 270sp & 250sp Dc Power

Big 3 1/0

http://dcaudio.us/

SPL-LAB sells rep. for IOWA

http://spllabusa.proboards.com/

Posted

to start it's summer, so what ever ambient temp it is in yer car, the heatsink of the amp is already. next, the mids/highs amp is class A/B which runs warm to hot due to it's nature in circuit design.

unless your amp/amps are shutting down from thermal protect, i wouldn't worry too much

when they start gettig hot I true sh!t off, dont want to f**k something up know.

dont have to. thats what the thermal circuit protects it from. so if it isnt, you're just wasting your time

ascendant.jpglogo.jpgteamsundown-1.jpgDCPowerLogoTransparent2.png

Posted

bad ground/clipping/low ohm load

go to frame or do front to back ground

in my saturn my front to back ground had less resistance than a strut tower ground

I was told that chassis ground was better them frame is not true. if I go front to back I still need another ground to the chassis of frame dont I?

Chassis/frame would be the same. You're essentially grounding to the body, run them on down to the frame.

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
Full Hybrid Audio SQ

7" BDS on 37's

2000 Ford Expedition

160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- :(

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