uhoh_45 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 are you sure you wired the subs up right?? i know with my buddys old xplode i wired it down to .35 and it didnt go into protect or anything instead it just burnt my finger when i went to touch it Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E a r t h Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 to start it's summer, so what ever ambient temp it is in yer car, the heatsink of the amp is already. next, the mids/highs amp is class A/B which runs warm to hot due to it's nature in circuit design. unless your amp/amps are shutting down from thermal protect, i wouldn't worry too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 bad ground/clipping/low ohm load go to frame or do front to back ground in my saturn my front to back ground had less resistance than a strut tower ground I was told that chassis ground was better them frame is not true. if I go front to back I still need another ground to the chassis of frame dont I? Quote TEAM DC AUDIO 1999 Tahoe HU-Clarion flip out & Clarion EQS746 Mids/Highs Amp-MB QUART ONX4.125 Mids/Highs- Undecided Sub Amp-DC Audio 7.5 Subs-4x DC Audio xl 18s Alt- 270sp & 250sp Dc Power Big 3 1/0 http://dcaudio.us/ SPL-LAB sells rep. for IOWA http://spllabusa.proboards.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 are you sure you wired the subs up right?? i know with my buddys old xplode i wired it down to .35 and it didnt go into protect or anything instead it just burnt my finger when i went to touch it pretty sure it is I used the 12volt.com Quote TEAM DC AUDIO 1999 Tahoe HU-Clarion flip out & Clarion EQS746 Mids/Highs Amp-MB QUART ONX4.125 Mids/Highs- Undecided Sub Amp-DC Audio 7.5 Subs-4x DC Audio xl 18s Alt- 270sp & 250sp Dc Power Big 3 1/0 http://dcaudio.us/ SPL-LAB sells rep. for IOWA http://spllabusa.proboards.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 to start it's summer, so what ever ambient temp it is in yer car, the heatsink of the amp is already. next, the mids/highs amp is class A/B which runs warm to hot due to it's nature in circuit design. unless your amp/amps are shutting down from thermal protect, i wouldn't worry too much when they start gettig hot I true sh!t off, dont want to f**k something up know. Quote TEAM DC AUDIO 1999 Tahoe HU-Clarion flip out & Clarion EQS746 Mids/Highs Amp-MB QUART ONX4.125 Mids/Highs- Undecided Sub Amp-DC Audio 7.5 Subs-4x DC Audio xl 18s Alt- 270sp & 250sp Dc Power Big 3 1/0 http://dcaudio.us/ SPL-LAB sells rep. for IOWA http://spllabusa.proboards.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E a r t h Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 to start it's summer, so what ever ambient temp it is in yer car, the heatsink of the amp is already. next, the mids/highs amp is class A/B which runs warm to hot due to it's nature in circuit design. unless your amp/amps are shutting down from thermal protect, i wouldn't worry too much when they start gettig hot I true sh!t off, dont want to f**k something up know. dont have to. thats what the thermal circuit protects it from. so if it isnt, you're just wasting your time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
727Designs Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 bad ground/clipping/low ohm load go to frame or do front to back ground in my saturn my front to back ground had less resistance than a strut tower ground I was told that chassis ground was better them frame is not true. if I go front to back I still need another ground to the chassis of frame dont I? Chassis/frame would be the same. You're essentially grounding to the body, run them on down to the frame. Quote -Zach-2010 Toyota TundraFull Hybrid Audio SQ 7" BDS on 37's 2000 Ford Expedition 160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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