06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60

[scooter99]

Ok guys! I just finishwd a little bwnch test video on my tablet. I have to figure out how to edit the damn thing and then it'll be up. Probably gonna be tomorrow night though. I have to get to bed. I am running a 10k tomorrow (6.3 miles if you dont know) and i need a good night sleep. Ill also have some other stuff to show you. A little teaser!

Till tomorrow!

[scooter99]

So first let me say, i'm getting a little frustrated only cause I have so much to do with this thing, and I want so badly to get it done but every time I try to get stuff done, or go work, something comes up. It's life, it's what I have to do, but frustrating none the less. Life will go on and so will this build!

Just got confirmation yesterday that I will be able to swap out the HDP5 for an HDP1 so now I only need a second HDP1 and a second HX300D sub. Everything else is here, and everything else is ready to go. To that point, I did manage to bench test my tablet set up this weekend and I have to say I'm very happy with those results. it works flawlessly, well almost flawlessly. There's a little issue with the base rise, but I'll explain that when I get there. I do have videos of the bench test and everything working, but I'm not going to be able to get those up until tonight most likely. I'm hoping and praying that it worked cause I used my old video camera to do it with instead of my regular camera, and I have to find the software to put it on the computer. So I do have a video, but I'll have to figure out how to get it on the computer, then onto either photobucket or youtube.

Let me get to that first. As I said I took pictures and got a video, so at this point I'll get the pictures posted and explain in decent detail what's all going on and how it's all working. The one thing I don't have on here is the Power Supply for the items that need it (tablet charger, hdmi converter, etc). When I get that I'll post up on how it works! Let's get this party started!

So to start off here's all the components ready to be set up.

Stinger SPP1200 Battery (this will be changed out, I'm going to be using an XS Power D3100 in the set up now)

Audison BIt One for processing, Hertz HDP5 (in the picture representing amps)

Samsung Galaxy 10.1, the new custom mount,

Hertz Components (for the bench test only, these are going to be sold, no longer using rear fill)

Finally, a Samsung HDMI capable monitor, Octava 1x2 HDMI Distribution Amplifier, KnuKonceptz HDMI cable, KnuKonceptz Optical Cable.

Here's my stockpile of wire!

Next I got it all hooked up and ready to go.

First up I connected a distribution block with the battery. I used this cause of the different sizes of wire and cable, and I had it on hand. Ran the power and ground to the barrier strip to distribute the power (yellow), ground (black), and create an ignition source (green) as well as sent an 8ga cable from the battery to the amp. Got the processor hooked up as well. In the fore ground you can see my "ignition source" or switch. The power constant was ran into the switch, then out of the switch creating an ignition source. Pretty simple.

Turn on the ignition or in this case flip of the switch (lit up blue), and everything powers on. Audison Logo is lit blue, Hertz Logo on the amp is lit up orange.

Now that we know those work, we'll go to the next step. We need to hook up all the signals. Let's go through that. This is kind of running backwards from the destination to the main source, but you'll get the gist of it.

Starting at the Processor:

[scooter99]

We have the input from the main source, in this case the main source is the tablet, however we are getting the signal distributed and analyzed by the converter (HDMI distribution amplifier). So I have the RCA's for this going into the channel 1 & 2 input on the processor. This will be my "main" source input. The secondary input will be the Optical input. I did not have the processor set up for the optical input previously and I didn't have time to get it set up for that now, so I left that out. However, you can see on the right hand side in this picture, the optical cable will plug into the port second from the end where it says "optical" and is light grey in color.

Here you see the power, ground, and ignition source for the bit one. On the right of that is where the USB cable plugs in for the computer to run your set up.

Then here we have the outputs from the processor. I chose to use channels 3 and 4 for this application because from the previous set up, those were my mid range channels and for this it was the best application. These RCA's go out to the amplifiers. On the left side you see the phone cord looking wire, that is for the Bit One DRC or Digital Remote Control. That is what controls volume etc from the front of the car.

As stated before I ran power from the battery straight to the amp, then you also see the green remote wire. Also, pretty self explanatory, you see the speaker wires.

Here you see the RCA's from the outputs of the processor into the amplifier.

Now that we've covered that side of things, lets take a look at the other half of life in this set up!

Here you see the RCA's that are running from the Distribution Amp to the processor. This is the Analog signal from the Distribution Amplifier which will be converted from the HDMI signal from the tablet.

Getting it all hooked up, this is how the Distribution Amplifier works, or looks. Getting the signal from the tablet, it goes into the D.A. via the HDMI output, which is the second HDMI cable from the left (black). It then takes that signal, and distributes it (hence the name) into several different signals, analog audio, digital audio, and video. This was the major kink in this whole set up was getting the best signal out of the tablet and into the system. The HDMI figured in to be the best for my application simply because it was the only way I could get a video signal from the tablet.

So for the Audio portion, it goes out via the RCA's into the processor, as well as optical. They are both active all the time. You'll see that in a few minutes.

For Video there are two ports. I was originally going to install two head rest monitors in the car, but since that time my daughters got their own tablets and no longer seem to need the dual monitors back there. I have different "custom" plans for that, but I won't go into those now. Anyway, so I decided to only use one monitor for back there so that I can still have the ability for them to have video from the main source in back. This is in fact a mirrored monitor source as you will see later. So the HDMI Cable to the left (blue) is the video out and the open port is the second video out, should I decide to go with dual monitors anyway.

The cable out on the far left is the power source. This is what will eventually have the 12v source which is converted down to 5v via my regulator which is being finalized now.

Here you can see the whole set up pretty much ready to go. The tablet in front, the monitor is leaning against the box, and those simply get plugged into the HDMI ports, or the tablet into the dock.

[scooter99]

So now we'll turn it all on, and i'll show you the monitors etc. It all works!

Ignition on,

Processor on, here's the lit up DRC

Slide the tablet into the dock

The distribution amplifier is auto on. The black button on the right hand side is the power button, however it senses power and turns on automatically. If you want to turn it off, you'd have to press that button to turn it off, or turn off the car/ignition/power source. To turn back on, you can either press the button, or turn the car/ignition/power source back on. Simple. Also has a pretty blue light! LOL So that's on

Turning the monitor on.

Here's where you see the mirrored image on the monitor. I have to adjust color etc, but you can plainly see it works!

Here's a video I played off of Netflix, I think it was a Jeff Dunnam video. But the point is you can see it working on both screens. I don't have any videos downloaded onto the actual media center on the tablet, so I don't know if this will work the same way or not, but I like this alot better, being able to see up front on the tablet as well as on the monitor. I'll be downloading a video soon to see if it will work that way.

I decided to see what it does with the volume by testing it with the DD1. I downloaded the DD1 cd onto the tablet for this reason alone. It all works great. So I got it all set up and as you'll see, it's at max volume and no clipping! SICK!!

DD1 powered on and hooked up ready to go.

Track 1 - according to the DD1 instructions for headunit testing.

[scooter99]

So now we'll turn it all on, and i'll show you the monitors etc. It all works!

Ignition on,

Processor on, here's the lit up DRC

Slide the tablet into the dock

The distribution amplifier is auto on. The black button on the right hand side is the power button, however it senses power and turns on automatically. If you want to turn it off, you'd have to press that button to turn it off, or turn off the car/ignition/power source. To turn back on, you can either press the button, or turn the car/ignition/power source back on. Simple. Also has a pretty blue light! LOL So that's on

Turning the monitor on.

Here's where you see the mirrored image on the monitor. I have to adjust color etc, but you can plainly see it works!

Here's a video I played off of Netflix, I think it was a Jeff Dunnam video. But the point is you can see it working on both screens. I don't have any videos downloaded onto the actual media center on the tablet, so I don't know if this will work the same way or not, but I like this alot better, being able to see up front on the tablet as well as on the monitor. I'll be downloading a video soon to see if it will work that way.

I decided to see what it does with the volume by testing it with the DD1. I downloaded the DD1 cd onto the tablet for this reason alone. It all works great. So I got it all set up and as you'll see, it's at max volume and no clipping! SICK!!

DD1 powered on and hooked up ready to go.

Track 1 - according to the DD1 instructions for headunit testing.

[scooter99]

Volume all the way Maxed out!

NO CLIPPING!!

Here's a little pandora radio for you, coming from the tablet as well as the monitor.

And finally, a picture of the lit up optical cable!

So now all that's left with this is to get some music and videos downloaded onto the media hub of the tablet and test that way and see how that works with the tablet being on or turning the screen off on only getting the video out of the rear monitor.

Also I have to get the power source finalized and built so I know what I'm working with on size etc. But aside of that, everything is done and works.

I previously mentioned that I had an issue with the dock. The problem is, and you'll hear me talk about this in the video when I get it up, but the dock is sitting about 1/16 - 1/8" too low and the connection is almost not touching and I had an issue with that in the video, where the signal doesn't go through. But that's an easy fix at the moment since I'm still getting the dock and the dash worked on. Aside of that it's working flawlessly and I could not be happier with the set up!

I also was going to do a separate write up on the other cheaper module, or distribution amp, and I tried it and got the same results where the signal was not coming through, not even just audio. SO, I scrapped that one. I'm sure you can try others but I'm not going to take the time or money at this point to do so.

So there's the tablet bench test version 2, a successful one!

I'd be happy to hear any comments or suggestions if you have any. Otherwise, thanks for tuning in and happy building!

[scooter99]

Now then with that all done, and ready to go and working, I decided I'd go ahead and let you in a little secret with a teaser pic! I kicked around this idea a while back and I"m back to it. After realizing that I use the radio more times than not, I decided to bring back the separate head unit idea, but I didn't just bring it back, I brought it back with gusto! Here's some pics!

Alpine Connectors bought from Pac Parts:

Alpine Nose Base, Alpine Base Plate, and Alpine CDA-9886 Face Plate:

Some Gepco 8 pair (16 total wires) cable:

Here's the plan, and it's already evolving from the original idea, as most of my ideas do.

I have the Alpine CDA-9886 in my truck currently. That's coming out. I'll put the old Pioneer unit back in there until I decide to get something a little better for it.

The Unit will go in the glove box by itself. I"ll build a panel for the glove box which will hold the frame as normal. NOTICE I said the unit itself will go in the glove box. The faceplate will not be with the unit! Yes you heard that correctly.

I have two ways to go about doing this. The first way is to buy a shell of the face plate, I already have the back of it, I would only need the front and a volume knob, then I can put the connector in there, solder it up, and the face plate can go onto the unit and just be there for cosmetic purposes. It's about $47.00 for those two pieces. I can spend another $15.00 and pick up a full faceplate on ebay. But I already have the back nose piece part. Just seems to be a lot for cosmetics. What do you guys think?

Option two would be to not use a faceplate at all, leave it the black base part, open the unit up, and solder the Gepco wires onto the connectors of the base unit from the inside. Then they'll run out of the back like the main wires do. By the way, this gepco wire is about the size of a good 4ga cable. So out of the back of the unit, I'll terminate the wires with a molex cable so that I can make installation and removal easy if needed.

The face plate: This is where I'm a little undecided. I was originally going to put my HVAC controls in the head liner, if you will recall, in a pod I'm going to make out of fiberglass, lowering the current lights and sunroof switches that are up there. The original idea for this head unit face plate, was to remove the HVAC controls and put the face plate up there instead, and then put the HVAC controls down in the cubby below the head unit and in front of the gear shifter. That was option one.

Option two put the HVAC controls up in the headliner again, and the I drop the faceplate down, and move the Bit One DRC controls over and put the face plate side by side with the DRC right below the tablet.

So, I guess at this point I could use some suggestions or thoughts between option one and option two. Option two is my current thought and I did that cause it puts all the audio component controls in one spot. Either way I think the "wow" factor will be there!!

SO there you go, cat's out of the bag. I've got all the parts, I just need to get soldering and decide where I'm going to put this thing!

So to recap here's what I need opinions on:

Cosmetic face plate with connector on the outside

No cosmetic face plate and solder wires from inside the unit

Face plate in the headliner

Face plate in the dash next to the DRC under the tablet

Lots of work left to do, stay tuned, cause I'm getting to some of the smaller stuff very very soon!

[JeremyN]

I did this with an old alpine cd changer controller ( cant remember the model right now but it was from around 1990 -1992 era ) mount the face on the back side of the sun visor so when you flip it down the controls are right there and when you dont need them you flip up the visor

[scooter99]

Hmm That's a good idea too. Thanks!

On another note, I got all the distribution blocks detailed out on sketch up. It's a little overkill, but when done, it'll look sick! I'll get those up and explain them tonight. Time to head home and do the night time routine with the kids!

I'll be back later!

[scooter99]

So I thought I had made a diagram of what I was going to do with the power, but I guess I didn't. That's ok I'll explain this as best as I can.

We'll start in the front of the car at the Main Battery. The current battery is a Stinger SPP1200 Power 2 battery. This has been serving me well, but I'm switching it out to an XS Power D5100 battery. When this will happen I'm not 100% sure, but it will happen. Off that battery there are a few things that will need to connect.

Here's a list of those things:

4 ga - starter cable, non fused

4 ga - ECU cable, non fused

3 x 8ga - HID power cables

1/0 ga - Alternator Cable (Mechman 220Amp High Output Alternator)

1/0 ga - Rear Power Run

Obviously that's a good amount of stuff to run off one post. So instead of trying to cram in all onto the single post, I decided it needed a distribution plan. So I designed my own. After looking at and buying the Audison Connection fuse holders and distribution blocks, in the end, I decided I was taking up a lot of room with those and I could make it look better and more organized with a better system. The Audison gear is stellar, don't get me wrong, but with the fact that alot of what I'm doing is custom anyway, I wanted to try and take this to the next level. This is what I came up with.

From the XS Power D5100 Positive terminal, I'll be connecting one of these dual output terminals I designed:

This will screw down right onto the terminal, only sitting at 1" tall, and as you can see, has two 1/0 gauge outputs on it. These will be made of aluminum block and drilled out, and will have stainless steel allen head screws to hold the cable in.

From there, the dual 1/0 Ga cables will run into a Fused Distribution Block, which will house all the slots needed for the things I mentioned above. Now with this I'm thinking I'm going to have to alter the design a little bit, and maybe go to a full fused distribution block, because I think the "L" shape that this has will be tricky to do on my own. Not so much the "L" shape, but more the recess that the fuses will sit down into. You'll see what I mean in the picture, take a look:

Dual 1/0 ga inputs

2 - 4ga, 3 - 8ga, 2 - 1/0ga outputs

Outputs labeled

Now looking at that, as I said, it may be a problem, it may not be. Maybe I can sacrifice a router bit to get all that done. Not sure if I can even do it that way. We'll see. The starter and ECU cables don't need to be fused, they weren't fused when they were removed the first time. The ECU has it's own fuse, and the starter is pretty self explanatory I think. I could always do it where they're all fused and just but very very large fuses in these two. I'll decide what I'm going to do later, but I'm up for suggestions. However, this is the layout I like. Moving on!

Back to the battery, a second dual 1/0 ga terminal will go on the negative post.

I did not make a second distribution block like the fused one, but a block just like that, but non fused will be made as well. This will house the three HID grounds (cause I don't trust that they have a good ground now), and dual 1/0 ga grounds from the frame when doing the Big 3. There will also be dual 1/0 Ga inputs on this as well.

Now let's go to the back of the car. In the back there is going to be a second battery, an XS Power D3100 battery which will help with the system duties. Starting with the positive side. The positive terminal will get the same Dual 1/0 Ga Terminal as the front battery did. In case you forgot what it looks like, here you go: