Purplehaze Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Nice! Love me some wiring fun! Reminds me of the first chip I soldered to a ps2 board. 22 wires, really small. I mean micro-wires! Anyway cant wait to see how it turns out! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Yep! I'm headed out to get the ol soldering iron fired up right now! Gonna get some work done here real soon! Should be up and running before the nights over! Then we'll have our answer! WOOHOO! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ok guys, I've got pics to post. I'll get them up in the morning. I'm headed to bed. Good and bad night. I'll explain all of it tomorrow. Good night for now! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ok so last night I was able to fire up the soldering iron and get the head unit extension all finished up and working! Well, sort of! Here's how it went down! First I got everything out and started working on it, pretty much where I left off from last time. Recall that everything was stripped off and ready to solder on the wires. Now my original plan was to just solder from the outside in, meaning I was going to lay the wires on to the tabs and solder them on and then bend them and do the other side. After looking at them for a bit, I decided that these tabs were just not strong enough to really do that. I decided the up most care was needed in the soldering and handling of the connector tabs. So to solve that and get that result, I decided that the best thing to do, would be to bend the wires in an "L" shape and solder them that way, and then when they go on the tabs, they'll be resting on the strongest part of the tab, which is not the wing, but the body of each tab. So that's where I started. I needed to tin each little wire. 8 pairs, twice = 32 wires! Actually kind of went pretty quickly! Check it out! Before tinning Just to see the plan, if it'll work better! Time to solder Same here, pre tinning Now I started to solder the wires to the tabs. But I pulled these wires off. Rather than try to fight space all the way down, I'm blind already and I was wearing my glasses, but my head was killing me after looking at this stuff for a while in crappy light! So I tried to make it a little easier on myself by doing it from the bottom up instead of the top down. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBleedMusick Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Looking good definitely doing work and sometimes I wonder if you enjoy putting yourself through this but looking good definitely entertaining 2013 Dodge Charger Build Log 1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0Build Log 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe Build Log SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!My Selling Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 It's a little rough right now. But I can clean that up! Now it's time to move on to the next connector. I actually found this one tougher than the first one. These tabs seemed thinner and more brittle than the other one. I decided to do the same thing with these. "L" shaped wire from the inside. Also from the bottom up. Again a little rough and then cleaned up! BTW, I don't claim to be the best solderer in the world, I'm still learning. So if anyone thinks they can give any suggestions as to how to better my solder joints, I"m all ears! Thanks! Moving on! Soldered up and ready for some support and connection. Got out the hot glue gun and started filling the wires up and this will help support the weight of the wires and prevent the soldered tabs and bare wires from touching. Side one Side two Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Now to move a little up the wires for more support. Once again, it's not the cleanest, which if you all know me by now is driving me nuts, but like I said a bit earlier my head was killing me, and I was getting impatient with these connectors. No excuse to let the details get away from me I know, but it's what I'm using for this now. Ready to put it in it's home. What you'd see if I took the face plate off. Looks factory! I compared it to the one from the factory, and it's the exact same distance, which is flush. I'm happy with it. Wires supporting themselves and the connector and base. Now, on to the next one! Same thing done here, I'll just post pics, you get the idea. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBleedMusick Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ooooohhhh Goodie does this mean I should be expecting to see a little cutting, fitting and installing of the HU? 2013 Dodge Charger Build Log 1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0Build Log 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe Build Log SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!My Selling Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Not the greatest picture but here you can see I filled in the sides of this one. The other one I wasn't able to fill in on the sides because the tabs in the center need to move in order to take on this connector. I didn't want to take the chance that it would be glued. But this one doesn't have that issue. Got it on the face plate back, the false one. Now they're ready to go! Next I got out all the equipment and a battery and it was time to test her out! Remember this was the full length cable. 10 feet long. I had really no expectations for this one to work based on what I'd heard and read about extending these newer alpine faces. But my hopes were positive and it would be nice if it did work! Now the false face plate base won't just sit in there. It needs the front in order to stay on, because the front is where the holes are for the bottom in order for those pins to go into and the plate to stay in place. So I did the next best thing, which was electrical tape it. So now it's in place. The false base, is a different story. The face plate will stay on it cause it has those holes. Here it's in place and open. Just to show the contacts. Up and in place. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Power and ground hooked up, got a buzz from the unit loading up. We're powered! AAAANNNNNNNNNDDDDDD! NOTHING! Damn! So basically that pretty much eliminates the ability to put it in the headliner. I need at least 8 feet of cable to get it up there around the windshield. SO the headliner is out, and now it's the dash bezel under the tablet. But instead of just taking the option I HAD to make sure it was in fact going to work. It's like play golf, you have to hear the ball drop in the cup. Well here I had to see it work for myself. So I cut each one about 2' in length giving me 4' total. I figure this was plenty to work with. Now I didn't want to take the time to put crimp connectors on each one cause I wasn't going to leave them like this. I'll be making molex connectors for each end, and then making a harness cable in the end that way I can remove either end if i need to for whatever reason. However, for the bench testing, twisting and electrical tape will do. Round two ready................................................nothing! EFF!! At this point I was getting pissed. I figured 4 feet would work for sure. I can't imagine a run this short would not work. So I got out my DMM and checked each and every wire. I connected both plates together via electrical tape, and tested all the wires. Non touching, all connected correctly. NOW I'm stumped. But I couldn't stop so I did it again. Cut it down even more. I cut off 10" of the wire and reconnected. Tried it again! ITS ALIVE, ALLLLIIIIIIIVVVVVEEE!!!!! WOOHOO!! However, now I may have a problem. I'm sitting at 32" now. Even though the glove box is right next to the dash bezel, I have to go all the way to the front of the glove box, not just to the back end of it. So it may be too short to work with. I need to get in the glove box, figure out where it's going to sit, and then take a string and take a measurement so I know exactly how long I need this to be. I'm also going to keep adding inches until I don't get the face plate on anymore. I'm hoping to get another 4" - 6" out of it, but I have a feeling that I may only get 2". But at this point, I know where it has to go, which is below the tablet. That will allow me to move forward with the tablet install and know where it's all going. Until then, I'll keep adding inches until I can't go any further. So there you have it, my work for the weekend! Thanks for tuning in! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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