scooter99 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Meh it happens. I think you can delete your own posts though, or maybe it's only in your thread. Not sure. Anyway, not a big deal. I just went into your thread and hell yes it was helpful! I'm in for the rest now! Nice work! I'll check into a service rep around here too. Although I'm fine at this point with paying for the service manual since I know it has the info I need in it. Thanks for the help and info. I'm pretty jazzed to start on those blocks too. I need tools though. I need a drill press, and a belt sander too. Need other things too, but that's just to start. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCort101 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Just added you as a Friend. Let me know if you ever need anything. I'm happy to help. Lu Funky Lu WYLA Designs What Ya Lookin At? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Tanks. I will. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Sorry guys, things have been on hold. I've been battling a pretty bad flu bug for the last few days. Fever has been at about 102 for 3 days now, till today! I finally woke up without a fever today. So things are looking up! Anyway, I'm going to try and get some stuff figured out and test the resistance differences between the gepco cable and some cat 5 cable. Then I'm going to test the unit to find out what pins are the power and ground pins and do an isolated power on the faceplate. We'll see what happens. It's either going to work, or I'll have to buy a new faceplate. Either way, I should know by the end of the day. I do think, however, that the voltage on the faceplate is 9v not 12v. So I may not be able to test it today, cause I don't know how to do a voltage drop on it. But that's all I've got for now. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBleedMusick Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Glad you're feeling better 2013 Dodge Charger Build Log 1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0Build Log 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe Build Log SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!My Selling Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yea, little bits at a time. Went to the store to get some meds this morning for my girls, cause they're sick now too which was inevitable. Got some other groceries too, and after walking around the store for a half hour, I'm zapped. So slowly, but I'm getting back. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBleedMusick Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Yea, little bits at a time. Went to the store to get some meds this morning for my girls, cause they're sick now too which was inevitable. Got some other groceries too, and after walking around the store for a half hour, I'm zapped. So slowly, but I'm getting back. I am surprised your wife didn't quarantine your ass to one room. 2013 Dodge Charger Build Log 1996 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0Build Log 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe Build Log SMD SUPER SELLER!!!!My Selling Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Shit! She was just as sick as I was! We were both down at the same time with no support to take care of the kids. So like I said, it was inevitable. I got some interesting pics for you guys! I did some DMM work on the cat 5 and the gepco. Be right back! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Just got out with the DMM, man am I in need of a new one! But I tested the resistance on the lines. First the gepco 22ga wire that I currently have soldered on. It's a little hard to see in the pic, but I have it set to 200. Don't know if this is right or not, but if not I'm sure someone will be happy to correct me on it, Please! But, as I said, a little hard to see in the pic, but it came to a .06. Next I took some Cat5 wire at the same distance and tested it at the same 200 setting. I was surprised at a .07 result. By what everyone has said, I was expecting something different I guess. Not that I know what I"m doing anyway. This is what I was shocked by. I decided what the hell and to test the whole roll, or what I had left of it. It's about 75 feet give or take. At the same 200 setting, I got a 3.2 result. So, now I'm very confused! Not having that much of the gepco cable to use I can't compare. So I'm gonna go rest for a bit, then I'll go out an see if i can identify the power and ground pins on the unit. If I can do that then I can figure out whether or not I can use an isolated power on the face plate and run data from the unit. Be back later! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Well this was my other thought, similar to what this guy did in this set up. He pulled the front off the base unit, and in there is the little board that's attached to the front of the unit. This is a CDA117 unit, but the CDA9886 has that same board on the back of it. So my thinking is, which I stated somewhere a while go, if I did this, took that board off the base unit, then took the extra base plate that i'm going to use to hold the face plate itself, relocated, and put the board on that. Then make a harness that goes between the connector on the base unit, and connecting it to the board that's been relocated. It's basically what he did in this with the ribbon cable, but only longer. My thinking in this, is that the resistance or voltage drop comes in at that board attached to the base plate, not the main board itself. I of course have to test this theory before I go through all the trouble, but I'd like to do so. Not sure how to exactly, but I'd like to test it. Here's what I'm talking about. I found a service manual for the Alpine CDA-117. When you completely remove the entire front of the head unit' date=' all you see is the CD unit and a stationary 20 pin connector. By purchasing this service cable, it allowed me to retain the whole front of the CD unit as a whole. This way, I built a metal housing and placed the whole faceplate into it. This will still allow me to remove the faceplate and keep the factory look of the unit without a bunch of wires showing where others have done this with soldered wires showing.The cable was purchased from: Hermanelectronics.com the part number of the cable is: 01V35647S01 It cost $64.00. It's about 12 inches long, but you can probable cut the cable and extend it with a computer ribbon cable if needed. I just didn't want to have anything to do with soldering on the radio itself. Here are some photos of the mods I did. Hope this will help others out. As this site gave me some ideas from everyone's previous postings. Not giving up just yet. I need to find the guy who said he did a face plate relocation at 35 feet using an isolated power source for the face plate. Hopefully he can shed some light as well. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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