broadz Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi guys, just picked up the new car to replace the DUBZ jeep I previously had. Its a 1997 Nissan Navara (Hardbody) Ti dual cab. I bought it with the intention of practicality in mind and to downgrade to something still reliable yet cheaper and pay off a couple of debts and walk away with only the home loan. A little later this year or early next I will be starting a project car so I need to save money and not go "stupid" on this like I did with the jeep. Bulbar/grille has been removed and sold in favour of Chrome Bumper, Chrome Grille and Headlight Surrounds. Canopy removed and roll bar/tonneau cover reinstalled LPG System fitted with 70L tank installed inside the tub D22 Tail Lights Plans are as follows: I'll be shaving the tail gate smooth and removing the hooks and latches in favour of an alloy hardlid which i'll make at work. Wheel choice is 17 inch Toyota Prado and as soon as possible I will be changing out the heavy duty springs for reset height leafs in the rear, and drop spindles in the front. Stereo as follows (mostly left over from the Jeep) Headunit: Clarion HXD2 + Ipod Kit Amplifier: Alpine PDX5 Speakers: Morel Supremo 6 + Picollo Subwoofer: JL Audio 13TW5 Battery: D34 Optima Wiring: 3pr custom length RCAs and Shok cabling Deadening: lots of Dynamat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadz Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Midbass: no door build outs here... I pulled the door trims apart and dummy fitted the supremo 6's. There is about 2mm clearance behind the weather shield behind the back of speaker and the window when fully down and about 3-4mm of clearance between the rubber surround and the grille. There will need to be minor cutting of the door metal to fit the 6.5 and some acoustic cloth will be glued inside the grille to hide the speakers cones. Tweeters: Custom A pillar mounts will be fab’d and flocked in the original colour to match the rest of the dash Ideally I'de like it to look all stealth apart from head unit The subwoofer is a JL13TW5 which I purchased new in San Francisco and brought home with me, the amp will be an Alpine PDX5 It starts with an 18mm mdf base,the rear wall (rear firewall of ute cab) is fiberglassed and joined to the front section which sits inside the rear seat cavity. hopfully my quick sketch will explain it a bit better MDF Frame for sub box complete, now time to take a mold of the rear firewall in fiberglass and attach it to the front section of the box. According to my measurements and calculations it comes close to 25litres which is a touch more than the .75cu ft as recommended by JL. By the time the extra bracing and fiberglass is taken into account, it should be almost spot on .75 cu foot. The front section of the box is very ugly at the moment but as soon as the fiber glassing of the rear wall is complete and the box is sealed, i'll be sanding the rough edges and smoothing over with body filler for a smooth finish, ready for trimming The mold was taken and attached to the frame and all of the gaps/openings sealed up The box is still incomplete and needs some work to it to seal one big leak, remove a temporary brace which is blocking a precious air-path to the rest of the box and heaps of deadening of the rear firewall. As it is a working progress, I'll update you all daily or as soon as I progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raolito1980 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 The enclosure is goin to fit nicely. Lookin good man. Mids look sweet. 2012 GMC SIerra CC System Build Headunit--Stock Sub Amp--DC 2.0k Subs--2-SA8v2's Enclosure--Need one made!! Highs Amp--Sundown SAX-100.4 Front Highs--Rockford Fosgate T2652-S Rear--Sundown Neo Pro 6.5 XS Power D2400--XS D3400 No Big Three yet! http://www.youtube.c...ser/raolito1980 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brads0069 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 thats one sik truck! build is lookin great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadz Posted July 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 The wiring is a working progress... It will have neat and tidy cable management and there will be a trim covering the amp in a similar profile to where the sub is mounted for a symetrical look A second amplifier is hidden in the glovebox. It will eventually run the tweeters when I upgrade to full 3way speakers up front. (add an extra midrange) Thanks Nissan for providing such a convenient entry location for amplifier wiring. I simply unbolted the clutch master cylinder blanking plate and with a 32mm hole saw, cut a hole big enough for the LPG wiring and two runs of SHOK 4 gauge. The two runs of 4 gauge wiring were then covered in split tube and taped for that OEM appearance. Two fuse holders. One 4 gauge runs the headunit and the other, the Amplifier. Temporary battery terminals were nicely heatshrinked... This is until I install new batt terminals and re-wire the ugly mess of power cables Nissan have left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadz Posted July 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Wiring ran through Passenger door - this was rather painful as the loom is a rubber tube and while threading the new cable, it would stick and not move any further. I ended up pulling the entire loom back through the door and doing it on the ground. Of all the cars I've owned (each have had dynamat lined doors), this has been the car with the biggest improvement. The door now closes with a good solid thud, whereas you could hear the rattles and echo following a second or so after. I've also noticed there are vents inside the door (to the outside) where it sits in the door jamb which means i could achieve Infinty Baffle if I choose not to seal it up. I've sealed it up for now, but is easily removed If I want to try running IB Convenient disassembled Supremo 6 woofer makes it easy to test window clearance to ensure i build speaker spacers the correct thickness. Dynaxorb pad and dynamat "roof" for the supremo midbass to protect it from water drops were instaled. Door trim has also been reinstalled and tested for clearance. Luckily, using 12mm MDF for the spacer, I have 4mm clearance between window and magnet and another 3-4mm between rubber surround and speaker grille. Quite a close fit! First impressions: Lacking midbass.... Whether its just that i've been used to the sealed door enclosures I had in my Jeep and now i'm back to leaky door cavity, lack of power to midbass or just tuning. I do only have one side complete so I won't make up my mind until the other side is also complete and I have my new midbass driver installed. Spent some 4-5 hours running speaker wiring into the drivers side door. Drivers side was far harder as I had to remove the lower side of the dash, steering column trim and relocate some looms, relays and fuse box to be able to gain access to the door loom. The previous owner had an alarm added so an extra pair of wires were run into the driver's side door for a motorised actuator (master/slave) which replaced the master (non powered) stock actuator. The installer must have seen how big a job it was to run the wire inside the loom, so it was left, cable tied to the outside of the loom (where you see it inside the door jamb. As I wanted to do everything properly, I ran the speaker wire through the loom and re-ran the central locking wiring through as well. Firstly, I removed all of the messy grease/glue/tar which holds the door plastic liner, covered every internal surface area with at least one layer of dynamat and then 3mm MDF panels were cut, sanded and painted in gloss black, then glued and gaffa-taped into position. I also ran a sleave of heatshrink over the door rod so that the dynamat wouldnt stick to it when i completely cover it. After a good hour of tuning, I managed to start extracting some usable midbass out of it. The sub, while it is "invisible" still isnt playing low enough which is possibly due to the choking effect of the bracing inside the box. I think the lack of midbass was just that I was used to my old well built sealed door enclosures being able to play well into the sub-bass region. The midbass I have now sounds more refined, far smoother with no big peaks which I had in the Jeep. I enlarged the speaker hole to allow a more open path into the door cavity. I think I'm going to have to do the same to the passenger side when I get a chance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Everything looks great man, looks like you know what your doing. What are you going to use for TA? i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I would like to hear this thing when it is done. Putting the deadener on the window mounts is a good idea. I should try that. You have great attention to detail. Keep those pics coming. 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadz Posted July 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 I cut two 16mm MDF discs with a correct sized holesaw and stretched some 3mm ABS edge strip around the outside to form part of the A pillar builds i've started on. I've been playing with tweeter positioning and so far, they sound best angled at the rear view mirror mount on the rooflining. Both A pillars are now ready for fiberglass. The passenger side was a little simpler as I was able to learn from the mistakes made on the driver's side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sounddesires Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 im diggin this build...cant wait to see more!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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