broadz Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Posted July 19, 2011 After having terrible sub bass for the last couple of weeks, I've finally got around to fixing it the best I can. I've opened up the bracing allowing greater airflow between the two sides of the sub box. I've applied dynamat directly behind the sub inside the box and filled about 3 or 4 gaps in the fiberglass which was leaking. After reinstalling the box again, I still had bad resonance and some cancellation. There was no real other way to fix it then to deaden between the sub box and rear firewall... Problem was that i didn’t have the clearance to apply Dynamat to both surfaces (box and rear firewall). After some professional advice, I glued a large sheet of 3mm closed cell foam on the back of the box and screwed it back in place with 10 screws to really make it as solid as possible. It now sounds terrific, has great output and overall is day/night difference to how it sounded before. Doesn't quite play as low as the Jeep did but I'm happy enough considering the compromises made for it to fit and work behind the back seat. A Pillars need more work to them to smooth them to be suitable for paint or flocking I know I’m getting impatient and just want it finished ASAP but I don’t have enough time to work on it as much as I’d like to. Having said that, it gives me great satisfaction that I can say that the whole system, start to finish was designed, built and tuned by myself which is a first for me as up until now my cars have been shop cars. I've learnt fiber glassing which I hadn’t really done before, never done any bog work or had to mold intricate shapes. For Mobile Electronics Australia Sound Quality 2012 season, I'll be starting on a second pair of A Pillars once a particular admin sells me his CDM88 midranges. This time using my Jasper Jigs (which I’ve only just found) instead of trying to find another 2 correct sized hole saws.
dwright27 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 You said you're gonna make a tonneau cover? Make me one to? 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer
broadz Posted July 30, 2011 Author Report Posted July 30, 2011 Finished A Pillars. This is what $20 worth of underbody (textured) deadener and a can spray paint does
FieroGrande Posted July 30, 2011 Report Posted July 30, 2011 Damn that's some fine work. Do u do glassing as a hobby?
blownengine Posted July 30, 2011 Report Posted July 30, 2011 Nice work on the pillars. O and your wheel is on the wrong side...... haha 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT (Yea its got a Hemi)Alpine CDA-105KnuKonceptz 0ga CCA Big 3 with Yellow Top 15" SoundQubed HDC3DC Audio 1.2K (Bass)Pioneer 6x9's (Front)Pioneer 6.5's (Rear)Kicker 3.5's (Dash)Sony amp on the highs. (Hey it was free)
broadz Posted July 30, 2011 Author Report Posted July 30, 2011 thanks guys! Honestly, this is my first ever time i've done fiberglassing so overall I'm pretty happy how things turned out. It's not perfect but at least I've learnt from my mistakes and I believe that my next set (when I upgrade to 3way) will be even better!
broadz Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Posted August 10, 2011 As I was unhappy with the sound/output of the sub box behind the back seat, I decided to try an up-front, under the dash sub box to house a single Morel Ultimo ten inch sub. Hopefully I can get it to sound better than the previous attempt behind the back seat. Dummied my spare Morel Elate to test clearances Started off by tin foiling the area where I don’t want the box (to catch any resin runs and to protect my carpets from glass fibers. Taped the carpeted area to the same height as the 18mm mdf box roof Taped all surrounding areas, focusing on working from the bottom up to prevent resin seepage through the layers Test fit of sub box baffle template. Note the shape where it meets the center console has to follow the dash contour to be able to slide in in and out without removing the whole dashboard Measuring available mounting depth (200mm) to help aid subwoofer choice Measured remaining dimensions for a quick approximate of overall box volume which comes around 20-25 liters. Only once the box is complete I’ll be able to measure it accurately Door speaker grille profile Holden Adventra sub grille profile Looks like I finally have a use for the Holden Adventra subwoofer grille I bought many years ago for a previous project. (It will be cut down to form a square)
broadz Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Posted August 22, 2011 Fiberglassing progress: This is the new amp arrangement to replace the PDX5 that I’ve been using. It consists of an Alpine MRD-M500 for the Ultimo 10, Alpine MRV-F340 to run Picollo and CDM88's, Alpine MRV-T420 to run the Supremo 6. The MRD-M500 will be replaced by an MRD-M1000 when i can find one for sale, giving over 1000w RMS to the sub and a combined 1500w RMS 4-way front stage. Picked the Morel Ultimo 10 up from my local shop and using my jasper jig, cut the baffle. When i screwed the top board onto the box, I used 12mm mdf as i didn’t think I had enough mounting diameter for any thicker. I was pleasantly surprised that I had over allowed and the cutout diameter ended up being small enough to use an 18mm top panel. luckily, I hadn’t fiberglassed the top panel to the back or sides so I can and will change it. As you can see, I have gone completely overkill with the fiberglass. In some places it is over 10mm thick and is rock solid so I think the weakest part will actually be the mdf! I also modified a Morel Elate 10 mesh grille as I really didn’t like the signature spoke grille. The mounting holes were in different locations so they had to be drilled out to suit. It does stick out a fair way but there is a trim panel which will sit flush with the grille so it doesn’t matter. Also, I've finally installed a rear slider window... something i've always wanted and finally got around to install
broadz Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Posted November 30, 2011 The gap between the kickpanel and sub box: A little bit of body filler closes the gap: Finished result, a lot tighter gap Spray putty and textured paint applied Medium Grey to match A Pillars The colour is temporary until I can find matching carpet for the sub box and flocking for the A pillars. Next: Felt lining on the back of the box to prevent the kickpanel being scratched and to stop any vibrations
broadz Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Posted November 30, 2011 Rollpan Plate box, folding numberplate The 14 inch spare wheel no longer fits because of the drop spindle clearance so I have bought a D21 4wd (16 inch) wheel to use. I sand blasted and painted it the same KL0 colour as the body and fitted a matching sized tyre to keep the same outside diameter as my 17s I have also spent a lot of time repairing the inside of the tub, doing body repairs on the severely damaged wheel arches. After the body repairs were complete, I removed the gas tank to repaint it in the same KL0 body colour and a nice contrasting dark grey for the tank bracket. I then continued to retrim the whole inside of the tub apart from the wheel arches and tail light panels. The removed the side hooks and re sprayed the gutter (along the top of the tub) Sound: after a couple of minor tweaks I now have nice mid bass to go with the upfront sub bass and as such sounds a damn lot better and my scores at the national SQ finals reflect this. Its a shame I'll be losing a lot of my settings (gain) when I change amps in the coming week or two. Looks like I am almost forced into going 3 way active (+sub) or at least new tweeter mounts to be able to improve the imaging/staging where it seems to be lacking.
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