Fuse holder and power output

[KMS]

Ok this is some really weird situation I encountered over the time I have been using this Fuse holder.

This is the holder I'm using but without the meter. It's two 4 gauge out and one 4 gauge in.

This is the type of fuse that's in there.

See now what had happened was the first time I noticed something wrong was when my music no longer turned on. Amp light came on, deck came on. I went to the store listening to my music as usual and turned the car off, grabbed a drink, came back out and no music! So I opened the hood and looked at the holder. I noticed the fuse at the very tip where the fuse touches the prongs inside the holder, the fuse was melted inside and a big heat bubble on the fuse. The fuse was melted in the inside at the top so I guess the fuse no longer made contact inside.

So I go to autozone and grab another glass fuse, put it in at the parking lot and back to business.

A few weeks later my speakers stopped playing except the drivers side front speaker. Hmmmmm. So I open the hood again and inspect the fuse. It's starting to turn a dark brown at the top of the fuse again. So I wiggle the holder a little and get back in the car and everything works find again. All speakers working.

This time I notice the volume and bass is a lot louder. Now I have no idea why this got louder by just moving the holder but it's fine with me.

The power wire is securely tight on the fuse holder on both ends.

What the hell is going on here? Why would it cut out 3 of my speakers and why would my bass get louder? This is mind boggling.

Also I will be getting a second amp for the sub shortly and use a newer ANL type fuse for the battery then move the older powerbass holder in the back to power both amps. This is weird.

[Parentnoia]

Sounds to me like you're attempting far far too much current through the fuse, especially if you got it from autozone. Biggest I've seen out of Autozone/OReilly's is 30 AMP. Also, to me, that looks like a fused distribution block, not a fuse holder. The fuse holder is the cylinder in the package there.

[bAsShEaD33]

I had something similar happen to me once. My fuses kept burning out on me. Come to find out that the inside of the fuse holder was melted and the connection to the fuse was bad so when i moved the fuse the music would come back on. The reason for the melting was partly a bad ground and trying to pull too much power through a wire/fuse that was too small.

But either way def upgrade your electrical if your pulling over a 1000watts rms

[CleanSierra]

You're trying to pull to much amperage through that fuse. You need to get a higher rated one. They DO sell 60A AGU fuses like that at O'Reillys and Autozone btw.

[CleanSierra]

I popped a 60A fuse in seconds from my Fosgate T1000. And I also boiled the solder off of the end caps of the fuse too.

[KMS]

I popped a 60A fuse in seconds from my Fosgate T1000. And I also boiled the solder off of the end caps of the fuse too.

Yup, the ends are melting.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll be grabbing a AP1500. Will the fuse with that be good enough? I'll be using it at 1 ohm with the gain down to get 800rms, plus the mids and highs amp.

I'll be using that dist block that keeps melting to split the power for both amps. Am I still going to melt the fuses? If so I'll just buy a new dist block with anl fuses. Which size to get?