Dylank811 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Posted August 2, 2011 I've just about worn this topic out. But I think I have my shopping list of gear to hook my mom up with some bass via OEM integration. I just need some verification to make sure I didn't forget anything because I have not worked with factory head units before. Here's what I have planned: I plan to get the Hifonics MX-4 and grab a 50' roll of Tsunami 18 AWG wire to run up to the head unit. From here I plan to splice into the factory wires for the RL and RR channels using splice connectors. I'm also planning to splice into the factory power, ground, and remote wire the same way. That's the part I'm really unsure of. After that, I figure it's pretty straight foward. Run some RCA's to the amp. I got some 8 AWG power and ground planned since the amp is pretty low wattage. I'm going with an RF R250 and P1S415 to get her started. Due to lack of resources and tools at her house, I am going to buy a prebuilt ported box off ebay. Hopefully 3/4" thick MDF, but at least 5/8". Since this isn't a high power or high quality build, I was hoping that going with a 15" sub would provide ample low lows for her without bottoming out since she likes her beat. One concern I have is the factory EQ on the radio, especially the crossover. Is the sub gonna have issues with getting a good, flat signal? Thanks for the help, I know I'm long winded. 2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System Cadence FXA1600.2 Cadence S2W10 Cadence 4 AWG wiring Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz
Dylank811 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Posted August 2, 2011 bump 2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System Cadence FXA1600.2 Cadence S2W10 Cadence 4 AWG wiring Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz
Tarball Posted August 2, 2011 Report Posted August 2, 2011 I think you were trying to say you wanted to splice into the power to the radio but it was a bit unclear. If that's what you planned on doing, don't. Pull your power directly from the front battery, also, ground to the chassis somewhere. All in the back; use a distro block to powers the converter and the amps. Also, you may want to pull the signal from the rear speakers (if possible)this will potentially save you a few bucks in speaker wire and RCA length. consider 1 12 vs 1 15 - you can possible get something slightly better in 12" than you can in 15" for the same price. Just my thoughts. How much are you planning on spending overall?? /cheers CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Dylank811 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Posted August 2, 2011 I think you were trying to say you wanted to splice into the power to the radio but it was a bit unclear. If that's what you planned on doing, don't. Pull your power directly from the front battery, also, ground to the chassis somewhere. All in the back; use a distro block to powers the converter and the amps. Also, you may want to pull the signal from the rear speakers (if possible)this will potentially save you a few bucks in speaker wire and RCA length. consider 1 12 vs 1 15 - you can possible get something slightly better in 12" than you can in 15" for the same price. Just my thoughts. How much are you planning on spending overall?? /cheers Yeah, I was planning to splice into the power wire because I didn't think the converter pull too much of a draw and it would be safe. But I was thinking I would put it under the seat, when it would be much more convenient to mount in on the back of the rear seats. So pulling the signal from the rear speakers would be my best bet. As far as power goes, I was only going to run one 8 AWG back to the amp and didn't want to split it because that converter probably doesn't require anything that thick. Maybe I'm wrong. If it's in the back with the amp, I guess it would be much easier to ground it wherever I ground the amp. I considered a 12" too. I think part of the reason I want to do a 15" is because I use 10"s and it was kind of a curiosity thing to see the difference between a kinda small diameter sub vs. a kinda large diameter sub. Thanks for replying though, you already made me revise my plan and now it's easier! Edit: Maybe I could just run a little spaghetti wire back from the battery with the power wire for my amp and converter. 2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System Cadence FXA1600.2 Cadence S2W10 Cadence 4 AWG wiring Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz
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