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sorry for another tint thread but i need to do something about my current tint...its just not going well with my car....insteade of spending 200+ to get it taken off then 200+ more to get new tint...can i just tint over my current tint...

if so what should i put on? i want it to be relatively dark...not 5% dark...but like 15-20%.

im just not sure what to have put on since the current tint will effect the outcome.

woots for ducks!

this is whats on now (put on by previous owner)

DSCN0948.jpg

best pic i could get of what tint actually looks like.

like with this pic at different angle it looks like regular black tint...

IMG_2792.jpg

Edited by 9512GPGTX

Currently:

2015 Evo X WW

Forgestar F14 18s --Rally Armour Mudflaps

ETS 3.5" FMIC, CAI, Open Dump DownPipe, Test Pipe, Ultimate Racing Catback, BLEVINS TUNE, Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers

Build:

Crescendo Mezzos x2

Crescendo 800.4, 1500.1

Loaded Fi Q12

Second Skin Pro

XS D5100

RF 360.2

Sky High Audio Wiring

Need: ALTERNATOR!

PREVIOUS

1999 Grand Prix GTX

3.8L S/C-few modsWheels: Ruff Racing 280 19x8.5 Sub: Fully Loaded

12" Fi BTL Amps: Autotek MM3000.1d Sundown SAX-100.4HU/Tweets/mids:

Alpine D310 + H701, TBI HDSS tweets, Mpyr audio 65m x4extra sheit:

knukonceptz 0, 4, rcas, speaker wire EA 200amp alt HC 2400

TEAM DEADLY HERTZ!!

Financial Consultant- Charles Schwab

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no matter what you put on...I think it is going to still looked mirror...you have 15-20% on there right now

2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

HU: AVIC-D2

Fronts: ARC Audio KAR KS6006 Components

AA Poly Mids/ CDT CW-19 Tweets in kicks

Front Amp: Profile AP400x2

Rear Fill: None

Sub: DC LVL 4 (CF Dustcap) x2 (waiting for dustcaps)

AMP: RF t10001bd x2 (1400-1500 @ 1 ohm)

Wire: Welding Supply/Lighting Audio 1/0 Power/Ground

Zero Noise 2.0zn RCA (x2)

260 Amp Iraggi Alternator

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my buddy had a lexus suv with mirrow tint n had 5% behind it n u couldn't tell a diff, he had 20% behind the front windows n 5 on the back n mirrow on first, i rly dont see why ppl use mirrow tint it was origanaly made for home windows to keep the light out n then it got into the car game, i dont like it but every man to his own, i dont think it will get that much darker under it but $200 to take it off n then $200 to put it back is to expencive, i can get my truck tinted for $60 wut ever % i want, but if i was u ied try out some scrap pieces that the tint shop has n put behind it to see how it looks n if u can tell then ied do it insead of spendin $200 n not likein it n havein to spend more money on it, hope this helps ya man, good luck with it :)

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

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If you don't like the silver tint then tinting over it won't change that.

Doubling the tint can cause problems. The extra tint might heat up the glue on the original tint causing bubbles. It can make it darker then you want. The shop probably won't warranty the new tint over the old.

200 bucks to pull it is way to much.

Take hospital grade blades and baby soap and scrape it off yourself.

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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it shouldnt cost 200 to remove, esspecially if you are getting new tint after from the same place.

around my way the most reputable place in town charges around 50 bux to remove IF you are getting all your new tint done from them.

12" fi Bl loaded

RF power 1000

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01' grand prix GT

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thanks for the input fellas...ill prolly save a lil bit up from every paycheck and get it taken off and redone this spring :) any more experience with this issue please fill me in

Currently:

2015 Evo X WW

Forgestar F14 18s --Rally Armour Mudflaps

ETS 3.5" FMIC, CAI, Open Dump DownPipe, Test Pipe, Ultimate Racing Catback, BLEVINS TUNE, Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers

Build:

Crescendo Mezzos x2

Crescendo 800.4, 1500.1

Loaded Fi Q12

Second Skin Pro

XS D5100

RF 360.2

Sky High Audio Wiring

Need: ALTERNATOR!

PREVIOUS

1999 Grand Prix GTX

3.8L S/C-few modsWheels: Ruff Racing 280 19x8.5 Sub: Fully Loaded

12" Fi BTL Amps: Autotek MM3000.1d Sundown SAX-100.4HU/Tweets/mids:

Alpine D310 + H701, TBI HDSS tweets, Mpyr audio 65m x4extra sheit:

knukonceptz 0, 4, rcas, speaker wire EA 200amp alt HC 2400

TEAM DEADLY HERTZ!!

Financial Consultant- Charles Schwab

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Share on other sites

we charge the same amount to take off as to put on most of the time...tint is a pain in the ass to take off most of the time, sometimes you can get lucky and take it of easily but in my own personal experience it has been a pain in the ass. And then to re tint over you have to make sure all the glue is off and you have all the tint off the window or it will just fuck everything up.

and if you have defroster lines on your rear window dont even try taking that off. That is the hardest part about any removal and thats what takes the most time then anything

2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

HU: AVIC-D2

Fronts: ARC Audio KAR KS6006 Components

AA Poly Mids/ CDT CW-19 Tweets in kicks

Front Amp: Profile AP400x2

Rear Fill: None

Sub: DC LVL 4 (CF Dustcap) x2 (waiting for dustcaps)

AMP: RF t10001bd x2 (1400-1500 @ 1 ohm)

Wire: Welding Supply/Lighting Audio 1/0 Power/Ground

Zero Noise 2.0zn RCA (x2)

260 Amp Iraggi Alternator

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Share on other sites

ya thats what im affraid of, i dont want to take it somewhere and they dont get all the glue off and shit and then put the new tint over and it bubbles...that would piss me right off

Currently:

2015 Evo X WW

Forgestar F14 18s --Rally Armour Mudflaps

ETS 3.5" FMIC, CAI, Open Dump DownPipe, Test Pipe, Ultimate Racing Catback, BLEVINS TUNE, Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers

Build:

Crescendo Mezzos x2

Crescendo 800.4, 1500.1

Loaded Fi Q12

Second Skin Pro

XS D5100

RF 360.2

Sky High Audio Wiring

Need: ALTERNATOR!

PREVIOUS

1999 Grand Prix GTX

3.8L S/C-few modsWheels: Ruff Racing 280 19x8.5 Sub: Fully Loaded

12" Fi BTL Amps: Autotek MM3000.1d Sundown SAX-100.4HU/Tweets/mids:

Alpine D310 + H701, TBI HDSS tweets, Mpyr audio 65m x4extra sheit:

knukonceptz 0, 4, rcas, speaker wire EA 200amp alt HC 2400

TEAM DEADLY HERTZ!!

Financial Consultant- Charles Schwab

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if they pull the tint off and there is still glue...it is there problem...if you do and there is still glue then it would be your problem...

2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

HU: AVIC-D2

Fronts: ARC Audio KAR KS6006 Components

AA Poly Mids/ CDT CW-19 Tweets in kicks

Front Amp: Profile AP400x2

Rear Fill: None

Sub: DC LVL 4 (CF Dustcap) x2 (waiting for dustcaps)

AMP: RF t10001bd x2 (1400-1500 @ 1 ohm)

Wire: Welding Supply/Lighting Audio 1/0 Power/Ground

Zero Noise 2.0zn RCA (x2)

260 Amp Iraggi Alternator

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