milly Posted August 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 Sounds good, ill be busy all day but when i get to work (4-10p eastern time) i usually am on here helping ppl out. Heres a decent guide of how to install t-nuts. http://www.threeballclimbing.com/install4prongtnuts.htm It helps immensely if you know what size is up and below the size of your hole. I would recommend if you do not know these (i admit that i dont always know by memory) to get a gauge tool at the store when you are there. they look similar to this: http://www.google.com/imgres?q=drill+hole+gauge&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&tbm=isch&tbnid=tWpPuI2tzfi7hM:&imgrefurl=http://www.centurydrill.com/HSS.html&docid=wRQqW-eoUuFfBM&w=532&h=278&ei=6Ts6TvbMGYnqgQfk2ZXPBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=652&vpy=124&dur=1821&hovh=162&hovw=311&tx=170&ty=103&page=1&tbnh=130&tbnw=248&start=0&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0&biw=1366&bih=643. Home depot had a great one that allows you to test plumbing fittings, wire gauge, metric and SAE screws and bolts, electrical conduit sizes and nail lengths. I have used it quite a lot through my build i am wrapping up in the next few days for my truck. It shouldnt take you longer than 2 hours at the very max to take care of your situation. Just take your time with taking out those stripped screws, I would highly recommend taking them out by hand because if you have never taken out a stripped screw before or have done it often, you dont want to do it with a power tool. If you do it with a power tool without expertise on how to control and take the screw out without stripping it more, you can easily crack the head off the screw or strip it even more until it is fully rounded. Do what i had to learn hard with my system build, take your time and do it right. if you rush and half-ass it, it will turn out like crap in the end. I'm about to go an get everythin I need and start it. My biggest fear is the stripped screws. I'll get them out by hand though not a powertool. That Link helped a lot! It makes a lot more Since now. I'll report back when I finished and again, thanks a lot for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milly Posted August 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Update: Got the sub out and cut the port with a dremel. Tomorrow i will be getting the screws/t-nuts and hopefully my problem will be fixed. One thing, one of the screws put a little cut in the suround?(the part that looks like a bubble that goes all the way around the sub) will that mess up anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 How big is the hole? Typically it wont hurt much as long as its a very tiny hole, like a pin hole. If its a tear you may run the risk of getting a heavy hitting song and rip the surround more. Unless the box is sealed, having a tiny hole wont affect your sound to any bit you will notice but if its larger than the threads of a drywall screw you will run into problems. I spiked a drywall screw through the surround of my kicker cvr i have in my bedroom and it has been running solid for over 3 years. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milly Posted August 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 How big is the hole? Typically it wont hurt much as long as its a very tiny hole, like a pin hole. If its a tear you may run the risk of getting a heavy hitting song and rip the surround more. Unless the box is sealed, having a tiny hole wont affect your sound to any bit you will notice but if its larger than the threads of a drywall screw you will run into problems. I spiked a drywall screw through the surround of my kicker cvr i have in my bedroom and it has been running solid for over 3 years. I guess i snagged it when i drilled the hole in the first time....so i gues sthere was a hole in it from the screw. It's not very big, i might be able to get a pic tomorrow when it's light. When you say drywall screw do you mean just like the tip? or the head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Just the tip, like where the threads are. They are somewhere around 1/8 wide?? And dont feel bad, i snagged a little bit of my surround on my smd when i drilled the holes out but it took a fraction of a 16th of a inch off from the surround so im fine. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milly Posted August 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Just the tip, like where the threads are. They are somewhere around 1/8 wide?? And dont feel bad, i snagged a little bit of my surround on my smd when i drilled the holes out but it took a fraction of a 16th of a inch off from the surround so im fine. It's definitely a noticeable slit/cut but I don't think its anything too major. I'm just glad I got the sub out without breaking it! (It was hell getting the sub out since the screws were stripped!!!) Once i screw it back in though everything shouldddd be good to go. Ohh and i used pretty small screws the first go around, would it be okay to screw a couple sized bigger screws into the same holes as before so my subs are straight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Yes you can go the next size up in a screw size if you would like. That would prob be easier for you instead of screwing with the t-nuts since (no offense) you still seem kinda confused how they all work. What i would do is find out what size your old screws you took out are and get the next size or the second size up from that. You may have to drill out the subwoofers holes that are in the basket a little but just wait and find out. If you have to drill, be careful to not make another hole and ensure the drill is held straight the entire time. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milly Posted August 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Yes you can go the next size up in a screw size if you would like. That would prob be easier for you instead of screwing with the t-nuts since (no offense) you still seem kinda confused how they all work. What i would do is find out what size your old screws you took out are and get the next size or the second size up from that. You may have to drill out the subwoofers holes that are in the basket a little but just wait and find out. If you have to drill, be careful to not make another hole and ensure the drill is held straight the entire time. Okay great, was just asking because i didn't know if it would catch or not. This is my first system which is why i sound like a noob at it haha..I am a noob! I'll definitly make sure i don't drill into the surround.. Glad i only have to re-drill 1 sub instead of 2 haha. The screws that were in there though were tiny, like probably a half an inch long, I'll go with a size or 2 up and hope everything works out. This wasn't as hard as i thought it would be Can't wait to start bumping again, Heres a little vid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 The length of the screw is not what i meant to go the next size or the second size up from your screw you were using. I was talking about the width of the screw. The length wont mean shit since you are probably already through the entire baffle with the screws you had. You need to get a wider screw to make them fit tight again or like i said, turn the sub just a little bit to make a new hole about 1/4-1/2 of a inch away from the old ones. Now i would just get a wider screw since like i said having one sub straight and the other one turned will look really stupid and i dont like most systems where the subs are put in off center so that when you read the logo on the dust cap, it is sideways. Just get a wood screw that is a bit wider and you will be fine. Perhaps think about getting some structural screws. I used those to secure my amps to my subwoofer box earlier today and they are beefy to all hell. They will fit in the stock holes on your subwoofer so you wont need to drill anything, plus they have a hex head to them so theres less of a chance to strip them as long as you get the correct size hex head socket. They have these in home depot and lowes near where they sell the railings, stairs, and decking. They are grey with a hex head, very coarse threads, and are about 1-2 inches long. These will be all you need. They also come with a bit for you to put in your drill gun to screw them in and not strip the heads off. This is the exact screws i used to hold my amps down tighter than all hell: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053 Same sku, same brand, everything is the same. I love these screws. Just get these and you should be great as long as you didnt crack the wood on your box or anything you will get those to fit perfectly. If anything and if you have the tools for it, bring a cordless drill with you to home depot and buy the screws i linked for you and see if they fit in the parking lot. If they dont fit then you will need to go the way of the t-nut and you WILL have to drill out the basket of your sub to make them fit through as well as drill the holes on your box a little bit bigger. edit: just watched your vid, that looks very good. I cant wait to start slamming my smd tomorrow in the morning, im doing the finishing touches to the two sub amps im using to just wire the power and ground wires to them, set the gains on them, and make a brace for my batteries so they dont slide and i will be finished with my build so i know how it feels to not have bass. I have been without bass since October of last year :'( all i had was mid bass. lol. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milly Posted August 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 The length of the screw is not what i meant to go the next size or the second size up from your screw you were using. I was talking about the width of the screw. The length wont mean shit since you are probably already through the entire baffle with the screws you had. You need to get a wider screw to make them fit tight again or like i said, turn the sub just a little bit to make a new hole about 1/4-1/2 of a inch away from the old ones. Now i would just get a wider screw since like i said having one sub straight and the other one turned will look really stupid and i dont like most systems where the subs are put in off center so that when you read the logo on the dust cap, it is sideways. Just get a wood screw that is a bit wider and you will be fine. Perhaps think about getting some structural screws. I used those to secure my amps to my subwoofer box earlier today and they are beefy to all hell. They will fit in the stock holes on your subwoofer so you wont need to drill anything, plus they have a hex head to them so theres less of a chance to strip them as long as you get the correct size hex head socket. They have these in home depot and lowes near where they sell the railings, stairs, and decking. They are grey with a hex head, very coarse threads, and are about 1-2 inches long. These will be all you need. They also come with a bit for you to put in your drill gun to screw them in and not strip the heads off. This is the exact screws i used to hold my amps down tighter than all hell: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053 Same sku, same brand, everything is the same. I love these screws. Just get these and you should be great as long as you didnt crack the wood on your box or anything you will get those to fit perfectly. If anything and if you have the tools for it, bring a cordless drill with you to home depot and buy the screws i linked for you and see if they fit in the parking lot. If they dont fit then you will need to go the way of the t-nut and you WILL have to drill out the basket of your sub to make them fit through as well as drill the holes on your box a little bit bigger. edit: just watched your vid, that looks very good. I cant wait to start slamming my smd tomorrow in the morning, im doing the finishing touches to the two sub amps im using to just wire the power and ground wires to them, set the gains on them, and make a brace for my batteries so they dont slide and i will be finished with my build so i know how it feels to not have bass. I have been without bass since October of last year :'( all i had was mid bass. lol. Thats what i meant, i was going to get a little bit longer as well as 1 to 2 times wider screws. Yeah I'm with you about that sideways sub stuff. I like my things to be even...haha Those structural screws do look really nice and beefy..They would cure all of my problems since they are hard to strip. If it doesn't require me to make my hole in the sub bigger than I'll probably go with that. You said they come with a bit to drill them in with? I've got a cordless drill, so I could see if they fit. Hopefully they do, that would be my best bet! And thanks man, I'm pretty happy with it! My arm rest doesn't have a opening in it, and it's sheetmetal behind it which i don't really want to cut..I think it sounds pretty loud seeing how theres no opening into the cabin. OH! Also, was meaning to ask..Once i close off the leaking air gaps around the one sub do you think it'll affect the loudness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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