screwing in the subs?

[kickass audio]

The length of the screw is not what i meant to go the next size or the second size up from your screw you were using. I was talking about the width of the screw. The length wont mean shit since you are probably already through the entire baffle with the screws you had. You need to get a wider screw to make them fit tight again or like i said, turn the sub just a little bit to make a new hole about 1/4-1/2 of a inch away from the old ones. Now i would just get a wider screw since like i said having one sub straight and the other one turned will look really stupid and i dont like most systems where the subs are put in off center so that when you read the logo on the dust cap, it is sideways.

Just get a wood screw that is a bit wider and you will be fine. Perhaps think about getting some structural screws. I used those to secure my amps to my subwoofer box earlier today and they are beefy to all hell. They will fit in the stock holes on your subwoofer so you wont need to drill anything, plus they have a hex head to them so theres less of a chance to strip them as long as you get the correct size hex head socket. They have these in home depot and lowes near where they sell the railings, stairs, and decking. They are grey with a hex head, very coarse threads, and are about 1-2 inches long. These will be all you need. They also come with a bit for you to put in your drill gun to screw them in and not strip the heads off. This is the exact screws i used to hold my amps down tighter than all hell: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053

Same sku, same brand, everything is the same. I love these screws. Just get these and you should be great as long as you didnt crack the wood on your box or anything you will get those to fit perfectly. If anything and if you have the tools for it, bring a cordless drill with you to home depot and buy the screws i linked for you and see if they fit in the parking lot. If they dont fit then you will need to go the way of the t-nut and you WILL have to drill out the basket of your sub to make them fit through as well as drill the holes on your box a little bit bigger.

edit: just watched your vid, that looks very good. I cant wait to start slamming my smd tomorrow in the morning, im doing the finishing touches to the two sub amps im using to just wire the power and ground wires to them, set the gains on them, and make a brace for my batteries so they dont slide and i will be finished with my build so i know how it feels to not have bass. I have been without bass since October of last year :'( all i had was mid bass. lol.

Thats what i meant, i was going to get a little bit longer as well as 1 to 2 times wider screws. Yeah I'm with you about that sideways sub stuff. I like my things to be even...haha

Those structural screws do look really nice and beefy..They would cure all of my problems since they are hard to strip. If it doesn't require me to make my hole in the sub bigger than I'll probably go with that. You said they come with a bit to drill them in with?

I've got a cordless drill, so I could see if they fit. Hopefully they do, that would be my best bet!

And thanks man, I'm pretty happy with it! My arm rest doesn't have a opening in it, and it's sheetmetal behind it which i don't really want to cut..I think it sounds pretty loud seeing how theres no opening into the cabin.

OH! Also, was meaning to ask..Once i close off the leaking air gaps around the one sub do you think it'll affect the loudness?

Yes you will be able to fit those directly in your subwoofers factory made holes, i am 99.9999999999% positive on it, i have never found a sub to not make it fit. Also the holes on your sub are larger than that screw for sure so it will slide in there like cake and screw in hard like you want it to do.

And yes they do include a bit in there. You may have to dump the box out on a table or something though because sometimes those a-holes put the bit at the very bottom, lol. But it is the head that fits tight against the hex head of the screw and will fit in your screw gun like a normal phillips head bit.

For your opening into your cabin, you dont always need to do that. I had a 12" kicker solox sub in a shitty prefab box (i was desperate for beats, never again will i use prefab) and the port was aimed to the driver side rear fender and it slammed to all hell. I couldnt put my seat down in my car but it got loud and i had a crap load of air flow throughout the cabin from the bass hitting.

Also your setup should get a little louder since you arent losing air flow with it escaping through the opening of where the gap once was from it sitting on your port. It isnt going to be like a 20db increase but it will be a little louder and punchier which you will notice. When you had the gap, you were losing air flow and also in turn lowering the tuning of your box a little bit as a result so it will sound slightly different but only for the better.

[milly]

The length of the screw is not what i meant to go the next size or the second size up from your screw you were using. I was talking about the width of the screw. The length wont mean shit since you are probably already through the entire baffle with the screws you had. You need to get a wider screw to make them fit tight again or like i said, turn the sub just a little bit to make a new hole about 1/4-1/2 of a inch away from the old ones. Now i would just get a wider screw since like i said having one sub straight and the other one turned will look really stupid and i dont like most systems where the subs are put in off center so that when you read the logo on the dust cap, it is sideways.

Just get a wood screw that is a bit wider and you will be fine. Perhaps think about getting some structural screws. I used those to secure my amps to my subwoofer box earlier today and they are beefy to all hell. They will fit in the stock holes on your subwoofer so you wont need to drill anything, plus they have a hex head to them so theres less of a chance to strip them as long as you get the correct size hex head socket. They have these in home depot and lowes near where they sell the railings, stairs, and decking. They are grey with a hex head, very coarse threads, and are about 1-2 inches long. These will be all you need. They also come with a bit for you to put in your drill gun to screw them in and not strip the heads off. This is the exact screws i used to hold my amps down tighter than all hell: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053

Same sku, same brand, everything is the same. I love these screws. Just get these and you should be great as long as you didnt crack the wood on your box or anything you will get those to fit perfectly. If anything and if you have the tools for it, bring a cordless drill with you to home depot and buy the screws i linked for you and see if they fit in the parking lot. If they dont fit then you will need to go the way of the t-nut and you WILL have to drill out the basket of your sub to make them fit through as well as drill the holes on your box a little bit bigger.

edit: just watched your vid, that looks very good. I cant wait to start slamming my smd tomorrow in the morning, im doing the finishing touches to the two sub amps im using to just wire the power and ground wires to them, set the gains on them, and make a brace for my batteries so they dont slide and i will be finished with my build so i know how it feels to not have bass. I have been without bass since October of last year :'( all i had was mid bass. lol.

Thats what i meant, i was going to get a little bit longer as well as 1 to 2 times wider screws. Yeah I'm with you about that sideways sub stuff. I like my things to be even...haha

Those structural screws do look really nice and beefy..They would cure all of my problems since they are hard to strip. If it doesn't require me to make my hole in the sub bigger than I'll probably go with that. You said they come with a bit to drill them in with?

I've got a cordless drill, so I could see if they fit. Hopefully they do, that would be my best bet!

And thanks man, I'm pretty happy with it! My arm rest doesn't have a opening in it, and it's sheetmetal behind it which i don't really want to cut..I think it sounds pretty loud seeing how theres no opening into the cabin.

OH! Also, was meaning to ask..Once i close off the leaking air gaps around the one sub do you think it'll affect the loudness?

Yes you will be able to fit those directly in your subwoofers factory made holes, i am 99.9999999999% positive on it, i have never found a sub to not make it fit. Also the holes on your sub are larger than that screw for sure so it will slide in there like cake and screw in hard like you want it to do.

And yes they do include a bit in there. You may have to dump the box out on a table or something though because sometimes those a-holes put the bit at the very bottom, lol. But it is the head that fits tight against the hex head of the screw and will fit in your screw gun like a normal phillips head bit.

For your opening into your cabin, you dont always need to do that. I had a 12" kicker solox sub in a shitty prefab box (i was desperate for beats, never again will i use prefab) and the port was aimed to the driver side rear fender and it slammed to all hell. I couldnt put my seat down in my car but it got loud and i had a crap load of air flow throughout the cabin from the bass hitting.

Also your setup should get a little louder since you arent losing air flow with it escaping through the opening of where the gap once was from it sitting on your port. It isnt going to be like a 20db increase but it will be a little louder and punchier which you will notice. When you had the gap, you were losing air flow and also in turn lowering the tuning of your box a little bit as a result so it will sound slightly different but only for the better.

I'll probably get those then, they sound a lottttt better than regular wood screws. DONT YOU HATE IT WHEN THEY PUT THE IMPORTANT STUFF UNDER EVERYTHING!?

And really? well thats good to know. I was wondering how i could do a small paper trick since i didn't have an opening in the trunk...I didn't realize till the other day that it's the sound pressure rather than the port that makes the air flow in and out lol.

I'm glad it should make it a little louder. It was a lot of air, i put my hand under the space it was coming out of and i could clearly feel it oozing out. I wasn't really worried about it until my friend told me that it could possibly mess up my subwoofer since the one that is screwed in all the way has to work harder to make up for the other one (something like that, confusing....) I'll post an update again tomorrow once i get it finished...my friend wanted to hear it so hopefully it doesn't take to long to get it back in lol.

Thanks for all the help btw....i appreciate it a ton!

[kickass audio]

Just so you know, air doesnt ooze, it leaks lmao. Liquids ooze.

Anyways, how did it turn out? Did you get it working all correctly and screw it together tightly?

Also, it wouldnt cause one sub to work harder than the other as long as its a single shared port. Now if you had the subwoofers box split in the middle so that each sub had its own chamber then you would be causing one sub to work harder than the other due to the loss in air volume.

[milly]

Just so you know, air doesnt ooze, it leaks lmao. Liquids ooze.

Anyways, how did it turn out? Did you get it working all correctly and screw it together tightly?

Also, it wouldnt cause one sub to work harder than the other as long as its a single shared port. Now if you had the subwoofers box split in the middle so that each sub had its own chamber then you would be causing one sub to work harder than the other due to the loss in air volume.

Thanks on the correction haha....I just typed what came to my mind!!!

I got the sub screwed back down, I couldn't find the structural screws that you were talking about for some reason... I stripped a couple of the screws again, but hey...atleast the sub is in! LOL

It might just be my mind thinking this but it did seem to be a little bit louder/punchier like you said... Felt like more air was moving WIN!

Thats good to know because i didn't want my subwoofers to get ruined lmao.

[kickass audio]

Haha i know man, no big deal. Im just an a-hole like that to say it XD

As for not finding the structural screws dont worry about it. Your store is probably sorted differently than the ones near where i live. If you gave the workers at home depot the sku number of the screws and they knew how the place was stocked, they could tell you where it is at. I knew where everything and anything was at all the stores i worked in a few years ago.

And with the subs being punchier, thats just because now all your air is going through the port like its supposed to and not the back of your woofer. Its almost like poking a hole through a water line, yes the water will still get to the other end of the line but it wont be as fast or effective anymore with that leak. Thats just like what you had going on.

And dude you couldnt ruin your subs too much like that. Now if you had the sub sitting free air and you were pounding on them hard, you would probably blow the coil or bottom it out so bad it would crack the coil off the former.

[milly]

Haha i know man, no big deal. Im just an a-hole like that to say it XD

As for not finding the structural screws dont worry about it. Your store is probably sorted differently than the ones near where i live. If you gave the workers at home depot the sku number of the screws and they knew how the place was stocked, they could tell you where it is at. I knew where everything and anything was at all the stores i worked in a few years ago.

And with the subs being punchier, thats just because now all your air is going through the port like its supposed to and not the back of your woofer. Its almost like poking a hole through a water line, yes the water will still get to the other end of the line but it wont be as fast or effective anymore with that leak. Thats just like what you had going on.

And dude you couldnt ruin your subs too much like that. Now if you had the sub sitting free air and you were pounding on them hard, you would probably blow the coil or bottom it out so bad it would crack the coil off the former.

It's all good haha.

These screws i got were pretty beefy so they should be fine. (hopefully lol)

That makes a lot of since now that you explained it.. It does sound a lot better though and I'm happy i finally got it fixed.

I guess he told me wrong about ruining the subs, but thats good to know because i was really worried about playing them till i got it fixed lol..

[kickass audio]

yup, it is always good to have a concern, i never did until i blew my solox from my stupidity and negligence, rofl.

How many screws did you strip? Also how many screws did you have in total on the sub? im too lazy to count

[milly]

yup, it is always good to have a concern, i never did until i blew my solox from my stupidity and negligence, rofl.

How many screws did you strip? Also how many screws did you have in total on the sub? im too lazy to count

How'd you blow yours?

I probably stripped 3 or 4 lol...They wouldn't go in easily. I Don't know off the top of my head but I think there are 6 screws total?

[kickass audio]

I blew my solox 12 by playing low notes on a box that was tuned wayyy too high and was a prefab. epic face palm. lol. I never knew as much as i do now about the importance of tuning. I found out that the clipping light on my stetsom amp i sold (another facepalm) was accurate so i never clipped it at all, just had a tiny ass box for a sub that called for a larger box and the box was like 2.5 cubes net and was tuned to around 45-50Hz. It got loud and was great since at the time i was listening to all rock music so i never had a problem. Then i got into my phase like i am now where i am listening to mainly hip hop/rap and those songs have really low notes on them and i bottomed the solox out on the bottom of the motor several times and since it was below tuning it cooked the coil a ton since it couldnt handle it. Oh well, live and learn and screw up along the way, oh boy have i screwed up big time on my systems, hence why it took me so long to get my smd build done since i wanted to know it all and know it was going right and not going to blow up after a few days, lol.

Now for your sub, if you have at least 4 screws held in it is a good start. I would try to get all of them down well but if you can, try to get at least 4 corners of them down tightly. What i mean by this is for example if you had a screw hole in the very top of the sub that was tight, try to get the one at the very bottom tight as well. Basically whatever screws are tight, try to get the one adjacent to it tight as well. Its also like if you are familiar with the star pattern ppl do when putting tires on your vehilce. You arent supposed to go around the entire wheel hub in a circle pattern as it can cause the wheel to become off center or get warped since it wants to go in the side that is screwed in the most.

edit: for how your screws got stripped again, do you mean the heads of the screws were stripped like when you try to tighten them down, you cant keep the screw driver on the screw well since it isnt gripping the screw? Or do you mean that you stripped the threads of the hole so that when you are tightening the screw down it just keeps spinning and never stops?

If its just the head thats stripped again i would just take the bad screws back out again and pre-drill the holes. If you are using something like drywall screws, just get a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill the holes on your box and then put the screws in. It may take a bit of torque but just take it slow and make sure your screw driver remains straight when you screw it in.

[milly]

I blew my solox 12 by playing low notes on a box that was tuned wayyy too high and was a prefab. epic face palm. lol. I never knew as much as i do now about the importance of tuning. I found out that the clipping light on my stetsom amp i sold (another facepalm) was accurate so i never clipped it at all, just had a tiny ass box for a sub that called for a larger box and the box was like 2.5 cubes net and was tuned to around 45-50Hz. It got loud and was great since at the time i was listening to all rock music so i never had a problem. Then i got into my phase like i am now where i am listening to mainly hip hop/rap and those songs have really low notes on them and i bottomed the solox out on the bottom of the motor several times and since it was below tuning it cooked the coil a ton since it couldnt handle it. Oh well, live and learn and screw up along the way, oh boy have i screwed up big time on my systems, hence why it took me so long to get my smd build done since i wanted to know it all and know it was going right and not going to blow up after a few days, lol.

Now for your sub, if you have at least 4 screws held in it is a good start. I would try to get all of them down well but if you can, try to get at least 4 corners of them down tightly. What i mean by this is for example if you had a screw hole in the very top of the sub that was tight, try to get the one at the very bottom tight as well. Basically whatever screws are tight, try to get the one adjacent to it tight as well. Its also like if you are familiar with the star pattern ppl do when putting tires on your vehilce. You arent supposed to go around the entire wheel hub in a circle pattern as it can cause the wheel to become off center or get warped since it wants to go in the side that is screwed in the most.

edit: for how your screws got stripped again, do you mean the heads of the screws were stripped like when you try to tighten them down, you cant keep the screw driver on the screw well since it isnt gripping the screw? Or do you mean that you stripped the threads of the hole so that when you are tightening the screw down it just keeps spinning and never stops?

If its just the head thats stripped again i would just take the bad screws back out again and pre-drill the holes. If you are using something like drywall screws, just get a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill the holes on your box and then put the screws in. It may take a bit of torque but just take it slow and make sure your screw driver remains straight when you screw it in.

Oh gosh...lol you bring another concern to my setup. My box is tuned to 36hz. How low is "safe"?? I like playing really low stuff haha. I don't have a pre-fabbed box though so thats a plus.

I have a AQ 1200D and it has the clipping light on the bass knob, and I was listening to it as in not turning it above whatever the light came on to be...But i had a friend thats been building systems for a while and has a wall come and listen to mine, he tuned my amp by ear and he listened really closely and said he didn't hear it clipping or anything like that.

It honestly wasn't loud at all before he did it, if you go on my channel i posted a few videos from a few months back and it barely distorts the camera...Now it's really loud and i like it lol. Basically I'm not paying attention to the clip light on the bass knob.

And NOO, I have all the screws holding it in, just the head of the screw is stripped not the hole.. I was just saying, if i ever go to take them back out i will have a hard time lol. The sub is held in with all 6 screws though.